Mopar1973Man

Don't look at my truck then... I've got 235/85 R16 on mine... Pizza cutters solely for the MPG numbers... Larger tire do produce a few problems... 1. Rolling resistance - Increase 2. Rotational Mass - Increase Wider tires tend to always have a loss due to rolling resistance because of the increase face width contacting the highway. Then the other side of the coin wider tire typically get heavier in weight which adds to the rotational mass which requires more HP/TQ to twist. Yeah I know everyone loves the big tire appeal but if you truely after MPG's you need a smaller, narrower, lighter tires... You might even ask for a rolling resistance index and the weight of each tire and compare to smaller size...

I tend to agree...

That's just fine... Most would suggest a pre-mix coolant because it mix with distilled water already. Or you can mix it yourself with distilled water. I've been using Napa, Prestone, Peak what ever is on sale. As for flushing... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/general/cooling/cooling.htm

(Shaking my head) I'm going to stay out of it... :rolleyes:Take notice to one thing... The guy doing all the talking is a Injection pump specialist... Hmmm... Yeap make since start bragging about making a injection pump run at 5 PSI so you can sell more injection pumps. I stil think is a good idea to stick with specs from the factory...

I'm thankful I never really got into sports... But nice that he had fun...

No... The grid heaters are disable after a starting temperature of above 60*F in the manifold... Most block heaters will warm the IAT up to about 100-110*F... Once again that coolant passage in the manifold...

ATF as far as I know won't hurt the system if you use it... I've seen several truck localy use ATf in the power steering. I use to use it in my old 1972 dodge because ATF was cheap and it had a small leak... That goes along with brake fluid...

Went to snag it back for us... Great work there in the information...

As far as what I can find in the Factory Service Manual (Dodge, Mitchell1, and AllData) it should be power steering fluid...

Not bad... Great tool for logging information kind of like my ScanGauge II but your is a laptop data tool!... Now as for the IAT temps start with a cold engine and note the outside temp on there and then drive till it warms up then you see the IAT starts at the same temp as outside but as the coolant temp rises the IAT temp will rise too. But since you coolant is on the cold side you offset is going to be less. So taking a guess at your data logs and the data given the temp for the day was about 35*F right?

Now if we roll back time to the 1989 to 1991 Dodge trucks I bet the CAI would do a world of good being there is no intercooler... So basically the stock filter was the best being the air was pulled from the front bumper. But now the turbo charger warmed it up, then the manifold, etc... But since the 1989 to 1991 model years had mechanical pumps it didn't change the timing or fuel rates but it did change the density of the air. This is where the nice part of the elctronics came in for performance and the VP44 was the first of its kind. Where the ECM could detect all these variables and adjust timing and other parameters to meet the road and weather conditons over the old school mechanical system that was fixed to 1 setting mostly.

I might think about blowing out all the lines and making sure there is no moisture caught up in the lines... then you might check the gear lube in the front diff to be sure its full and not got water in it... Being that temperature or freezing has a effect on it function...

The only way t oknow for sure is hook up a live data tool like a ScanGauge II or simular... Watch the IAT temps. If the temp falls below 100*F you'll start seeing a loss in MPG. But the IAT does affect the timing directly. High performance buffs love the colder the better because it will dump a heavier load of fuel in the cylinder for racing. But for the common Joe looking for MPG's numbers then the temps should stay above 100*F mark. As for drawing in the heated air... kind of funny there is little to no difference seen in switching from Stock air box to BHAF with a heat shield. reason being is the intercooler is doing its job of cooling the air back to outside temps. But what gives the gain is the heated coolant passage in the manifold. That is the boost port but just right out of site of this pic is a 1/2 pipe plug most love to pull but find out its a coolant passage. Yeap there is 190*F coolant being pumped under the manifold heating the air as it enter the cylinders. But typically the offset of temp at full coolant temp will be roughly +40*F over outside temps. So if its 60*F outside your IAT will be right at 100*F... now with winter fronts its about 50-60*F offset over outside temps. So at 0*F it will be about 60*F in the manifold. This is because there is very little cold air crossing the intercooler. So the whole idea of CAI is rather like shooting yourself in the foot... Being the real factor for the common Joe is how clean the intercooler is and if you got a winter front on at the time... On a personal note I've not seen a single product that can claim a reduction in IAT temps... Think about it...

Well i could do you the favor and move this over ot the 2nd forum to see if I can get you more exposure...

I've noticed that too... But the funny part is most all service manual like AllData, Mitchell1, Dodge FSM seem to be short on information as they went forward in time from 2003... Strange but true... But still in all performance wise wouldn't it be still good to have positive pressure to the CP3? I know there is a overflow valve on the CP3 and there is a little information on it but not enough to know anything about specs... But wouldn't it be wise to setup you fuel system simuliar to the VP44 to be able to bare crack open the overflow vavle and have good fuel flow? (Now I'm on the learning curve...)

There is a slight difference between our 2 runs... Mine was done with Vulcan Big Line kit and a Carter Campaign Pump and yours with be a FASS DDRP and Big Line Kit so I'm really curious if the FASS DDRP can reclaim its title some how with a few mods... :shrug:But stlill in all the common thing is still the DRRP is short in GPH rate, short in warranty, and long in price... So I knowi ts not exactly the best pick for a pump but there is a lot of them out there and maybe, just maybe you'll find the magic to make them work... Who knows... That's why I never will stop a person from trying something again even if its known for issues. Because maybe you'll see something that now one else didn't... (Prayin' for ya!)

Yeah I caught that that's why I went back and added that he should check the turbo and air ducting... I figures might as well double check everything since K&N has a bad history of dusting and collecting oil in the air system... I rather be safe than sorry...

Other than that it looks like you covering the bases properly. Take your time and do your research on your part and mods...

Actually that's wrong too... (I hate to say it) I found several service manuals (Dodge FSM, AllData, Mitchell1) stating the CP3 minimum pressure is 9.5 PSI... You might want to look it up...http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/3rdgen/fuel-system/fuel-system.htm

Well that's why I've not said a whole lot in this thread... I know you trying to learn from your experience and show the member your results of the testing. This is good. Yes I could of step in and feed you my results to my testing way back then... But why??? So if you willing to explore and test I'm not going to stop you. You just might find something I didn't...

Glad it was a cheap fix for ya!

Great glad to see it working for ya...

Best suggestion... Just replace that line quick with 1/2" and a tapped elbow... http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Draw-Straw-II-1-2-in-draw-tube-and-1-2-in-pushlo-p/ffvpu.htm

You guys got to check this out... Below article is from... http://www.dieselbombers.com/alternative-fuels-additives-fluids/953-2-stroke-oil-thread-13.html#post482310 After calling back the military testing facility in Manching, bavaria I got some interesting news. -It doesn't matter what kind of Diesel engine 2-stroke oil is added. It is designed as an lubrication and cleaning aid. It burns itself cleaner than Diesel. -recommended mixture is 1:200 down to 1:250. A higher mixture will devlop blue smoke again. - Use of 2-stroke oil is demanded, when not knowing the source of Diesel or assuming impurities or dilluted Diesel. This is what every 2 stroke oil manufacturer claims: Think about it! - Outstanding wear protection Extended life for critical engine parts - Enhanced frictional properties Improved fuel economy - Excellent thermal and oxidation stability Exceptional engine cleaning power resulting in extended valve life, reduced ring sticking, piston tightening and elimination of pre-ignition problems - Excellent corrosion protection properties Longest engine life - Eliminates pre-ignition Maximises fuel efficiency and extends piston life - Smoke-free exhaust Cleaner environment Why should a mixture of 1:50 in a gasoline engine be worse than a mixture of 1:200 in a Diesel just beeing needed as a lubing aid? Being at the official demanded saftey inspection caused the safety officer to shook his head and to run the test twice. Emissions are 57% better than the last time. The ten year old engine is now as good as a modern engine equipped with a DPF. This shows again that 2-stroke oil is so bad for the engine...

Best idea... You paid good money for it...