Mopar1973Man

Well That what I going to do I guess... But as for the lights... On or Off its still bouncing the voltage... I tried with everything on and with everything on... Just weird... The rocker switch has a LED light to alert me to it being on... As for the beacon light you can see it reflect off the road signs even in the daylight... Yeah it does bounce a bit... Like I was watching go up to 14.1 and then fall to 13.5 and back up to 13.8 then 14.2... Just all over the place... As for the grid heaters... It don't help leaving the fire radio on all night and coming out to a truck with 12.0V ... Grid pull to 11.2V and Pop up to 11.8V before starting... I wonder if a grid heater is stuck on??? :eek: ___________ Addon: I just went out and check the battery voltage and it falling since I got home 12.5V. I starting to think there is a internal short in the batteries and they are giving up. Yes everything is off!

Ok Gang... I'm looking for a bit of help on diagnosing a charging issue. Been a busy day for fire calls today and on my way home from this last fire call I was noticing on the SG II my charge voltage is low and erratic. It still within spec of 13.5 to 14.5 volts but it bouncing a bit. With my lights all going its hover right at 13.5 to 13.6 which is usual for a charge voltage. Then it might bounce up to 14.0 to 14.1 then fall again... My first though is field brushes are wore out... Still running stock batteries 8 years old... No codes either... Now here is the kicker I need to do this without throwing a ton of money at parts guessin' I don't want to blow my Christmas Cash on repairs now... HELP!

True! So very True! I think what would happen for the most part is people would find a way around the sensor the urea tank and run without it. Or the other thing is to load it up with distilled water since Urea is mostly de-ionized water... Hmmm... Maybe there is a way around this stuff after all... :eek:

I think that is the trick to it to pre-filter the fuel before the pump to protect the pump from damage. Another good reason way FASS and AirDog fuel pump work so good is because of the prefilter setup...

Looks like the tappet and valve covers are you biggest leaker for oil... But congrads to yanking out you engine...

EdCasey... Great looking fuel system... But I got a few questions... [*]What you fuel pressure like? [*]How much did the walbro's cost you? [*]How good is the life span of a Walbro pump?

I've bothered to watch the videos... But I know I can pull a VP44 in just over 1 hour... The nice part is getting the gear pulling from industrial injection and it will make life so easy...

Ummmm.... I might have to ban you from having beverages at the computer...

Another great aid is using a ScanGauge II because you can see instant MPG numbers on the fly and actuall aim for you MPG number you want! :eek: Here my truck back from Missoula MT... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/picture.php?albumid=3&pictureid=82 Oh heck... http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=pq0XG5qRLsM Post up your questions I'm sure everyone here would love to jump in and toss 2 cents worth of information to your cause! :biggrin: The only way your going to learn is to ask a bunch of question which is a good thing! :thumbsup:

Ummmm... I don't think so... :confused: I know a NV4500 will go on a 1st Gen... The floor will need to be re cut too NV4500 stick comes up a bit farther back from the GetRag 5 speed. Talk to Taz he's got a NV4500 adapted into his truck... He might get you some pics of it...

Gauge is the first thing... (Fuel Pressure, Pyrometer, boost, trans temp (if auto)) BHAF or similuar air filter setup. 4" exhaust or Straight piped 3" exhaust. Fuel system upgrade (AirDog, Raptor, or FASS) - NO FASS DDRP's! Now if you go for Edge Comp like myself your going to need gauge as listed above. But the Edge Comp is a very simple box and works great! But then there is the Edge Juice... Now thing get a bit more complex. Edge Juice has the same software as the Edge Comp but comes with gauges (fuel pressure, pyro, boost, etc). also comes with de-fueling limits, turbo cooldown timer and many more options.

Here you go gang the video I can find on YouTube...VP-44 Install and Removal Series 1 of 5 VP-44 Install and Removal Series 2 of 5 VP-44 Install and Removal Series 3 of 5, Part 1 VP-44 Install and Removal Series 3 of 5, Part 2 VP-44 Install and Removal Series 3 of 5, Part 3 VP-44 Install and Removal Series 4 of 5 VP-44 Install and Removal Series 5b of 5

Here you go guys the famous "Trunk Monkey" commericals... [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8avOiTUcD4Y]YouTube- Trunk Monkey Compilation[/ame]

Because they never done it before and never been train how to do the high idle flash... what funny there isn't much to do...

Well I was digging around the internet and doing somestudy work and ran across a article about the new emissions fo diesels in the coming future... http://www.osti.gov/bridge/servlets/purl/827849-VQhQPm/native/827849.pdf Then... http://www.heavydutytrucking.com/2005/05/044a0505.asp I'm glad I got a 2002 Dodge...

This is why I normally tell everyone to print the TSB off my web site and take it to the dealer with them for some reason most dealers are book smart to common problems but the odd ball stuff still throws them... As a matter of fact my dealer wouldn't do the flash for high idle for me...:eek: TSB for ya... http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/high-idle/tsb18-019-01.htm

Dorkweed has been chasing my MPG mark for awhile now and doing quite good hitting 19-20 or so most of the time... I remember back when he started with a Edge Juice and switch to the Smarty...

Ohhhhh.... Friday is coming... Oh my... Injector seal will be here.... Just can't wait...:ahh:

I would say there need to be new testing done on this but its not cheap. It took quite a bit funds wise from what I heard to get the test when DieselPlace.com did it. But since then it got quiet... I'm sure there are some companies producing better fuels out there but once again is the additive package being adding in proper amount ot the quanity of fuel? Is the fuel being testd for quality and HFRR score minimums? :confused: This could go on and on for a lifetime time... What is comes do to is that we known that all Bosch equipment requires 400 or less HFRR score. We know that most fuels today would rarely touch that number unless its BioDisel 2% or better. So it up to you as a owner to protect your vehicle the best was you can...

Hmmm... Look like the front seal was going south anyways... So far you got the front cleared off... so you actually going to pull it completely out huh? I hope you clean every thing and give it a good Kylon tune up too!

That was back in the days of the PHPbb forum and I had a script to clean up old members and delete them. so during the conversion to VBulletin in created Guest account to fill the post in...

Geez... I just feel the love here...

Ed... May I ask what you fuel pressure is like with the old VP44??? :confused:

Ummmm... No diodes in the setup... All resistors... Usually a alligator clip or such works good at that though... But after I build them I normally would take my DVM and stick it in the ECM plug and toggle the switch and see what the resistor value is... Then in the other position it should be a dead short between plug to plug... So on the ECT fooler you should see 3.3K ohms and dead short... And then on the IAT you should see 33K ohms and 56K ohm then dead short... The dead short is normal basically passing back to the sensor as normal... It the open circuits that are a problem and tend to throw codes.

Wally world is the usual... But don't get worried about trying something different... most all 2 cycle oil is ASHLESS and works very well... Most name brand are good products it just the no-name stuff I tend to steer clear off being there is little information on it. Tried... [*]PennzOil (Which happens to be WalMart Supper Tech - Universial) [*]Quaker State [*]Yama-Lube (Semi-Synthetic) [*]Sthl (Chainsaw 2 cycle oil) [*]Phillips 66 Injex (Snowmobile) [*]Castrol (Snowmobile) And a few more I can't remember right now..