Mopar1973Man

Wore the tip of the shift tower too thin so it slipping between the shift forks.

Most likely a bad sender. Check error codes it might confirm this. Fuel gauge error most likely will not set check engine light.

Change the filter inside the pan. Ive just talked to a friend few days ago that had shift issues and slightly higher trand temps. Changed the internal filter and fluid and problems are gone.

If the alternator is out of spec replace it. Make sure to have the new alternator tested before leaving the store I've had reman'ed alternator score worse than the current failed alternator. ALWAYS, ALWAYS, test your replacement before leaving the store. It not about adding a ground but seperating the alternator charge lead AWAY from the ECM and VP44 ground which in the factory lay out the AC noise just bleeds over to the ground leads heading to the modules. This is why the W-T ground mod works because the alternator charge line is hooked to the passenger battery. Then the grounds for the ECM and VP44 are hooked to the driver side battery and these two wire are no longer near each other. This out right stops the AC noise bleed over.

ECM, PCM and VP44 is the passenger ground terminal there is no body grounds for these three modules. They all use the passenger side battery cable directly so just cleaning the battery terimnals is enough. Scrubing the grounds all over the body is not going to improve the ECM, PCM or VP44 being they do not get ground the a body terminal only the passenger side cable. Hence the W-T ground wire mod... My new ECM and VP44 ground... No longer makes that long run to the passenger battery (4 feet shorter!)

Here we go talking about Thor and all its weird issues. Thor happens to be the Mopar1973Man.Com work truck. I purchased this truck from the bank at the price of $500. What happened was a long time friend brought it to me after 3 years standing in McCall ID. The throwout bearing was damaged. By the time I pulled the transmission and gat a look at the clutch assembly it was all ruined and looking at $1,000 minimum to get it running. The owner left the truck for over 2 months sitting in my shop and I call several times to have him move it. Never came to move. I got a friend to come over and move the truck and then it sat for another 9 months. After this time I had @Jthorcall the bank and work out a deal for storage fees, etc. Ended up buying the truck free and clear from the bank for $500. Now this is not just a cheap truck. After doing quiet dual disc clutch, +50 HP injectors, front wheel bearings, crank sensor, fan clutch, etc. I've dropped nearly 5,000 into this truck now. Still just fixing minor issues. Like one of my next things I wanna fix in the cluster so I can see true RPM's. I've already talked to @AH64IDwhich notified me that the chips on the back of the cluster need to be re-flowed in solder. This should fix this issue. Then I can get down to optimizing the cruising RPM easier. Being the truck is naturally heavy for steel flatbed and the amount of tools carried in the boxes. It not a light truck by no means. Close to 10,000 pounds.

Both. It could flat fail. Again if P0121, P0122, or P0123 then yes it could fail. Resetting the APPS won't do anything to fix the issues. All you doing is setting the upper and lower limits on the ECM. Again if the APPS falls out of range to low or too high volts it can and possible quit working till APPS returns back to normal voltage range. As for resetting it not going to fix a voltage out of range issue. Regardless... NOTE: The dead pedal is a bit of code added to the ECM so if the APPS failed at too high of voltage for some reason you don't have a WOT throttle truck that is out of control. When APPS voltage goes out of range (too high or too low) the ECM is disconnected from the APPS logically and left at a idle state so the truck is not in a runaway condition. So yes its very possible to be left with no throttle control possibly. Error codes and info...

I think I got it fixed with the Pagespeed module. Pictures are present again and working.

New grounds for ECM and VP44...

This next spring I'm going to be ready for you guys... Fingers crossed.

Wait to start not coming up is a ECM internal issue more so with booting up. P1694 code has to be dealt with before getting forward. Also if the ECM is not booting up in a timely fashion it could also trip the code from the PCM side as the PCM is asking the ECM question and there is dead silence from the ECM. (Not booted!) Remember the companion module is always the ECM. Then the Primary computer is always the PCM which is the main ring leader!

Timbos APPS would of been a much better solution. If its repaired correctly the error code should be erased and not returned. The only thing that will trip the APPS error codes is voltage that is out of range. Once it goes out of range the dead pedal occurs and the ECM ignores invalid signals till a known good signal is seen. I've been using the Timbo's APPS for over a very long time now and never replaced it yet nor had any throttle related issues. 5 years of travelling for @MoparMom(Rest in Peace) but I did over 250k miles hauling her back and forth to dialysis for 5 years every other day (Tuesday, Thursday, and Saturday) and doing 250 a miles a trip taking about 13 to 14 hours each day.

Like myself I've been self employed for the last 30 years for the most part. Yeah I've worked other jobs like dish pit at a restaurant. Still in all I've always did my own investigating work of what is needed in the area around me. Currently mechanics are in short supply. I've even gotten smart and talked to the shops around me and offer to take jobs they don't like to handle or don't wanna handle and visa versa. This way everyone helps everyone. I've current got more work than I know what to do do with. I'm up every morning at 5am and out the door by about 6am. Work till noon and hide from the heat till afternoon. Still working for my Well To Do Family. I know @JAG1 and @IBMobile are both self employed as well.

Next set I do I'll cut the top off and push the ball stud out. Them relief cut the cap strike once and it will fall out. Just need a hot wrench or cut off wheel.

W-T ground wire mod address the ECM and VP44 grounds. They come from the passenger battery over. The ground behind the starter is fuel heater and lift pump ground.

Yup I bet W-T ground mod will fix that.

"Not I", said the fly... Sorry I can't help.

Best I can add to this is according to the Bosch EFI documentation I last seen was the VP44 required like 60% return flow for optimal cooling and lubing. Then just for fuel consumption values. For 20 MPG you'll used roughly 2.75 GPH. For faster speeds like 70 to 80 MPH can be upwards of 4 to 5 GPH burned. Return rates will change over engine load and fuel demands. Just for fun, I've seen full WOT operation as high as 22.0 to 25.0 GPH burned! Return rates will be at it lowest point now.

Latches for your Quad doors. That's pretty cool I'm wondering if you'll have power windows and door locks?

Ok I've never seen one like that but I'll look for it now. Learned something from you all.

I have weighed out at GVWR 8,800 pounds and it was right at 50 / 50 roughly for weigh.

Not exactly. But the power wash kicked on loose on the pins so I was able to see how to unclip the rest of them. Not hard.

What is the axle weights? Front vs rear axle? Typically on average its 60% weight on the front axle and about 40% weight on the rear axle. For example I know the weights of my 2002 Dodge by heart. Front is 4,440 pounds (60.8% = 4,440 / 7,300) Rear is 2,860 pounds (39.1% = 2,860 / 7,300) Total weight 7,300 pounds. Even knowing this I can get the tire pressure correct... My tires are Hankook ATm 245/75 R16 (3,042 pound capacity at 80 PSI) (4,440 / 2) = 2,220 / 3,042 = 0.72 x 80 = 58.3 PSI in the front (60 PSI Front) (2,860 / 2) = 1,430 / 3,042 = 0.47 x 80 = 37.6 PSI in the rear (40 PSI Rear) Might check the axle weights like this and see how much weight is on the rear axle vs thew front axle.

Never seen it in that location. This is the typical location I know of and always seen. Unless that happens to be only a 98.5 thing... Never seen it on the cluster with a light. As for doing LEDs that is very possible just count the amount of bulbs you need. Make sure the bulbs match the color of lens to show correctly. For example if the tail lights are red lens you shouldn't use a white bulb. You see the bleeding of the other color of the spectrum like green and blue and not appear right. Where a red LED and red lens shows correctly. Changing cluster colors might be a bit weird so be aware there is a green tint... I've not pulled my cluster to see what is there rubber cover bulb or green plastic lens. Externally I'm all LEDs on my 2002 Dodge and love it haven't done the cluster yet but its just a simple bulb swap. I would also measure the new load on the cluster lighting and change the fuse to match the loads now. Most likely change from a 5A to either 2.5A or 1A fuse. Don't need 5A worth of power when most LEDs barely take milliamps to run.

Again the cruise indicator is in the odometer display and typically on the 98.5 and 99 I've seen its as a yellow to amber color on the odometer. Again there is no light bulb. From 1994 to 1998 was the cruise light was on the steering wheel as a green LED. From 1998.5 to 2002 the cruise light is in the VFD on the odometer From 2003 to 2007 the cruise light is a light bulb on the left side of the cluster.