Mopar1973Man

Don't feel bad I've been wait for time for getting my head, then waiting for the lube for head studs, then now wait for time ot put it back together. Trust me I get it.

All I can say he got them at a Fasten-all store. Standard 6 side flange nut same 12mm x 1.50 thread. When comparing the 6 side is much bigger clamping force.

Finally got the head home and head gasket. The only thing I forgot was my lube for the ARP 425 studs. Then last night had a chat with another forum member that showed me a much better nut for ARP studs. Much bigger flange on the nut and thicker body. Last night I got another friend Andrew to help me place the head back on the block. As soon as the ARP thread lube gets here I can start stuffing studs in. Truck has been sitting for long time and need to get it running again.

Russ the guy I was renting my shop from he had a 3 phase converter. His was more a redneck converter.

Yeah I had a close call and had my 2002 Dodge roll down the driveway and miss a customers truck and Jacobs truck on the other side. Same here shut down and lock in gear.

I wish I had a bigger shop.

Yeah I've never been over 140°F typically for fuel temp.

Yeah when I blew the gasket... No the studs...

Better than tossing everything in the back seat right? Wednesday, I'll be seeing a rain storm so that is my indoor job of putting my head back on.

In tank pumps are junk unless you can get 4th gen or 5th gen pump. Then the headache of retrofit that pump in a 2nd gen tank. Parking brakes make sure the shoes are in good condition then set the slack on the starwheels to make the shoe lightly drag. Now set you cable slack to pull the shoes tight. Also the two rear cables are prone to rusting and binding.

431k on The Beast, then 226k on Thor never seen any bearing issues on the rear axle.

Good news... the head gasket is here. Now I've got my toolboxes for Thor. Just got to go get bolts, washers and nuts. Im planning on bolting to the bed but welding the nuts to the bed bottom. So when the boxes are locked there is no way to remove the boxes without opening and unbolting from inside. As for my Napa Prolink account I get huge discounts on parts based on how much I purchase a month. Worth it in the long run.

2001.5 was the start of rear disc brakes.

Interesting...

Well the jobs here are getting cleaned up and only got 2 left to finish in less than 2 weeks time. 1996 Chevy Pickup with a oil cooler hose blown 1987 Chevy 454 powered motor-home to finish up with fluid changes and fixing things. Now on the flip side I got smart and fired up a NAPA ProLink Account. Already tested it out and I can place an order for parts and have them sitting and waiting for me. Being I'll be back and forth to McCall on a daily routine I'd figure that would be a much better option. Like my first order was front drive shaft u-joints and ran up this morning to get them and install. Smooth no sitting on the phone trying to find the right parts. Now I can look at them and match up in real time and save a bunch of headache.

Not always but some PSG issues on the VP44 will show up without codes sometimes. White smoke is a timing issues there should be error codes present... P0216, or P1689, or P1688... If your got over 100k to 150k on the current injectors you might think of getting tested or replaced.

Look for the VOID sticker on the VP44 electric connector if the stick is still there and not torn then yes its the OEM pump from the factory. Grid heat has been sticking on. Hence the burnt appearance of the coating on the intake. Lift pump is a factory location but hard to tell if its been changed or not. But still in all you need to test the fuel pressure. 14 to 20 PSI is optimal. Stock is 10 to 14 PSI. Marginal... But I seriously doubt that pump is still going strong. Need to to the crankcase vent mod... Then do the W-T ground wire mod...

Still that about the only time I've seen coolant getting burnt carbon back into the cooling system but never lost coolant which was weird. As for Dodge never seen it yet with EGR leaks (coolant vs. exhaust). Still in all pressurize the coolant system would push coolant out of its leak. Like my first head gasket did always leak on the floor being block was hot enough to dry up before the floor. As in my 1996 Dodge never leaked on the floor either but was leaking from the intake manifold gasket and drying up before hitting the floor. In both cases the pressure tester after pumping pressure into cooling system cold made it show the leak in both cases.

Yeah the terminals are oxidized and should be replaced. Nice truck. You'll enjoy the flatbed kind of like me and the 2006 with a flatbed.

Actually working for one person will be nice. I can set up once and continue working. It will be nice not working at home and leaving the job in McCall. As for the website I still want to do more. Still working on errors and server issues. When I get free time I've got more to do. I "promise" I won't lose focus for all your guys. I want to keep the website going. Right now I've just got to get stable and not doing good for one month then doing weak next month. With all I've invested in the 2006 I need to pay back loans to the website. Just like picking up a Lincoln wire feed welder. Then the injectors on "Thor" and the dual disc clutch on "Thor". Just this job insures this can be paid back to the website. Yeah I know it a business investment, but I like to pay the business back.

Usually in Fords the EGR cooler will leak soot into the coolant. The coolant gets a burnt smell. I think it would be the same on a Dodge.

Been here... Sucks driving like that at times...

Test the power lead pin to ground on ohms of the DVM.

Most the body bolts I deal with I will soak with PB blaster and then hit it with a impact gun and 90% of the time they come right out. There is a few time where I used a breaker bar and cheater pipe to get it started or broke loose and then return back to the impact gun. Very small percentage have I broke a bolt and had to EZ out it...

Cutting out isn't normal... Any error codes? What your fuel pressure like as well? Even my setup with the Quadzilla and the 7 x 0.010 injectors with warm up mode I'm limited to 80% stock fuel but I can use full WOT throttle without cutting out or loss of power for the most part. Just out of thought I would consider the PSG on the VP44 is problem at this point being as it warms up the problem leaves. Sad to say you'll end up replacing the VP44 to get a new PSG. The only thing I can think of mechanical is the injectors but typically it creates a misfire as it warms up typically. Your is doing it till it warms up.