Mopar1973Man

Kind of like my landlord at my other shop "batteries are ok they still start in the morning." Both test bad and was causing all kinds of issues with winch usage blowing the fuse out of the alternator and burning up alternators left and right over heating the diodes in the alternator. Just from weak batteries. Now after testing both batteries which failed and replaced them no longer any issues... Hmmm... Weird how that happens...

Umm... My local NAPA has a modern alternator test stand that does AC ripple voltage. Just in this order... Bosch or ND alternator (136A) -> Circuit Breaker (150A) -> Passenger Battery Passenger side POSITIVE Post.

Yeah right now Lewiston, ID has snow and its 750 feet above sea level... I'm just too far into the northern freezer period. I've got to wait till late March for chance to get out now.

As in remove the alternator take it to a shop of any type that can test for AC ripple voltage. Then while your there take both batteries in and have tested. If one is weaker than the other replace them both. Really common for one battery to fail and the other attempts to hold the rest of the system up.

I would still test both batteries and the alternator... Might look good but testing will really tell the true story.

Pull both batteries and have tested, if any batteries fails replace BOTH BATTERIES! Pull the alternator have it tested. If the the alternator fails the AC ripple test replace. Clean and check all main cables and check voltage drop. Like myself main ground cables have 0.003 to 0.005 (3 to 5 mV DC drop). If the W-T ground wire mod isn't done you best do it now. This will stop that entire mess in this one mod. Once you do the W-T ground wire mod you won't need an upgraded alternator. I'm still running factory alternators, the only different thing I've done is reduced alternator loading with Morimoto HID headlights (2.5 Amps), PIAA LED Driving Lights (1 Amp), and all exterior lights are LEDs now. Even the interior lights are LED inside the cab, still got to do the cluster lights yet. Eventually I remember to change my fuses in the cab and PDC to smaller fuses being taillights are like (1 amp) DC light up being each bulb is like 250 mA (0.25 amps).

Dirty power (bad alternator diodes, bad alternator brushes, etc.) is typically number one cause of burnt up electronics. Then bad grounds there is the W-T ground mod mentioned above on the page that clean up a ton of AC noise issues. I'm still using that little spade piece yet like 8 years now. I know the old problem was jump starting vehicles it would burn up the Quadzilla module from low voltage issues. Just remember if voltage goes low the loads typically remain constant so to make up for the lower voltage amps will rise quickly to make up. Weak batteries during startup could do damage just as easy. Everything pulling on the batteries grid heater, starter, and all the typically computer coming on line and attempting to start the truck if the voltage is dropping below 10.5 Volts its a problem. Good batteries shouldn't drop below 11.0 cranking cold first start of the day.

Right now the temperature dropped so low its not going to happen with my RV. If it would hover in the 40's I could get away with camping. I lost a big chunk of the under belly panel on my last Arizona trip. Wind tore it off. Just my kitchen grey tank cover. In design it was suppose to be heated holding tanks using the furnace blowing small amounts of air in the enclosed spaces. I need to jack this thing up and pull the remaining cover and measure and get a new piece for the tanks.

Now you see why I do most of my shopping in Lewiston, ID or Ontario, OR. We prefer Lewiston better. Less crowds and easier to get around. McCall is a tourist trap town which has its own sale tax rate too. Typically like me my sales tax is 6% go to McCall every is 7%. Then if you want to see big jump go to Stanley, ID it 9% sales tax. Ontario, OR is ZERO sale tax, and Washington is 6.5% sale tax rate. I could drive for 6 hours round trip and still save more money in Lewiston/Clarkson than staying home and shopping local. Last trip took mere 5 gallons of fuel to get home. Fuel is even cheaper its right at 3.009 here locally for diesel head to the Indian reservation outside of Lewiston it was a mere 2.509 a gallon. WinCo is on the Idaho side where Costco and Walmart are on the Clarkston side. The other bonus typically the weather in Lewiston is warmer being its 750 feet above sea level. Gives us a day of being in the warmer weather typically. Now that Texas is froze up everything in Lewiston is a icy mess too.

Your close to what I'm running which is 22° @ 2500 RPM. Basically started at 13° and stepped up +4.5° per band. I've got another tune I need to test some day which I stepped +4.6° per band.

Sad, but true.

When your too retarded the engine sounds silent there isn't any rattle per say. When you over advanced the truck will buck then getting more aggressive there could be backfiring. Optimally watch over your timing and the engine load when you hit the sweet spot the engine load will drop considerable. The other is if you have the trans temp set up for engine oil temp as you get to advancing too much you'll see oil temp rise quickly. Engine coolant typically starts to rise too.

You want to build to what you plan on for road speed. Typically I build for 55 to 65 MPH. Now measure your flat rolling engine load limit now add maybe +2% to that number so it stays in cruise timing without bumping out with every roll of the hill. Just don't add much more timing than about 19* at 2,000 RPM. Cruise timing is good to have on flat ground but make sure it cancels once the truck starts pulling a grade. Low boost is the best way to run with cruise timing, you don't want high boost and added timing it would start breaking things. It could be your MAX timing is a bit too high and then stacking on either the retard (Max Load Timing) 2* which is dropping you to 12* in the 1,500 RPM band. Then once you jump to light load and gain timing your stepping back up to 16* in cruise state for the 1,500 RPM band. Look at both ways because if you step above 30% engine load your timing retards the -2* that you set vs engine load. Then when the engine load drops below 30% now your adding +2* to the MAX Timing value. I will say each and every truck has it own sweet spot for timing some like more retard and other like mine like more advancement. This is based mostly on the cetane (high cetane ignites easier!) of fuel and the pop pressure (higher the pop pressure the later the timing) set on the injectors and where the are at in life. This is one reason I set the span between 5 and 15 PSI at 100% fuel this allows for normal daily driver without having to drop the power level. I know that my wire tap and my fuel map ramp up together at the same time. Compared to you wire tap is starting out at 5 PSI. Fuel map is well above 100% at 8 PSI. Way I'm set up now is seriously crazy power. being the fuel map start climbing fairly hard past 15 PSI and the wire tap is set for 15 PSI and it start ramping up together. Now the tires turn to smoke and the truck is gone. You can do a similar setup for your towing tune and just move the wire tap and everything above 100% later in time. This way gives a nice wide area of stockish fuel map without adding a ton of EGT heat.

Correct. Just the prefix "4" separates the Wix and NAPA numbers.

That is for our 1998.5 to 2002 Cummins ISB racing performance oil filter. Donaldson is typically the one sold by most vendors.

I've only got three 15w panels (45w total) from Harbor Frieght and been doing fine with that small amount of charge. I've been watching Home Depot for panels and have some wonderful solar panels for good price. 300w of solar panels and solar controller too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-Solar-300-Watt-Off-Grid-Solar-Panel-Kit-GS-300-KIT/203505917 Now a kit like that I would think of possibly mounting just a single panel on the roof. Then hard wiring that panel to the controller and RV. That way while in storage it would have 100w worth of solar charge for the batteries and eliminate the need for city power for the house charger. The other two panels I would build a free stand frame like my current HF panels stand.

I've been studying the local area for camping spots. I've found several that you can work with in the early spring and even late winter if you RV is up to the task of cold weather. Being I live on a highway that run north and south, as the high runs north toward Whitebird you going down to about 1,200 above sea level. You can find places below the snow line to camp out. Have to be care on your choice being some large areas might have limit sunshine and be very cold in the early morning hours. We have already though about hitching up and heading towards the north in the lower section of the canyon for camping but then the snow came, still coming and it would be just a bad idea now.

No generator require for me. I run silent power. I set out my solar panels and have 120 VAC power through the RV without making a single noise. Now if there was a shade tree I would park the RV under the shade and keep it cooler and the put my solar panels out in the sun.

(Under my breathe) The only gun laws is the second amendment. It clearly state no other laws shall infringe. Which clearly states all American citizens can bare arms. So all the other laws seem to be infringing on the right to bare guns or weapons. Don't be sawed of shoot gun, too large of magazine, or any other laws they create to limit use or possession of said weapon that again is infringement. Federal regulation does stop law enforcement or other federal agencies follow these laws too they are exempt from these laws. Seem kind of one side only focused on the American Citizen. Weird how the laws are so crazy now.

Since the micron rating on the BHAF is a fixed number being you never wash it. Now all the Cold Air Intake Filter every time you wash the filter it losing it micron rating. So how many washes till the filter is nothing more than a screen door? I know K & N is a screen right out of the box. For all you that like washable air filter here you go a Cummins washable oil filter. If you trust your washable air filter go for the washable oil filter and tell me all about how it short the engine life. I'll wait...

Always got a kick out of majority of people that are upgrading batteries to large CCA and keep saying it start so much better in minus weather. I bet that these people have weak cables or excessive voltage drop in the main cables and making up for the weak connection with larger batteries. I'm up north too and see minus weather off and on and never needed to upgrade to Group 31 batteries... Like I said stock was 750 CCA and I'm only 810 CCA now still starting strong every morning for 19 years and 429k miles and rolling. Like the last 2 winters my truck has been outside for the entire winter, no block heater.

I've seen several trucks with high dollar cold air intake with blacken turbos from the amount of dust and debris passed through the compressor wheel. BHAF is the best option for clean air for your 2nd Gen.

I've seen cases where the head was cracked and pushing compression gases back in the fuel by the return line. What I would do is check the return line for excessive air blowing through. There is a quick connector there near the starter and you can add a piece of clear vinyl tubing to see the fuel as it travels. You can use a long piece and route it back to the fuel tank filler neck. Then you can start the engine and watch for air being introduced to the fuel. Usually a pump that is sucking air tends to lose prime quick after shutting down being the air continues to bubble into the line and return fuel to the tank dropping the pump prime. This would be seen after restarting as a sudden drop in fuel pressure to zero typically and then regains pressure within a few seconds typically. This is a air leak in the suction line typicaly.

Not suppose to let any positive pressure out, it's never suppose to created. This would be a sign of bad injector copper washer or loose injector or cracked head. As for vacuum is will allow vacuum to flow to equalize the tank as fuel is drawn in.

Should never vent air when removing the cap this mean the vent on the tank is plugged up. Just as shown the grey fitting is the vent and it does have a rollover valve too is if the truck is up-side-down then the valve will block fuel from draining. Very possible to have the valve plugged with mud which is common with pups that like 4x4 in deep mud.