Mopar1973Man

Now you see why I do most of my shopping in Lewiston, ID or Ontario, OR. We prefer Lewiston better. Less crowds and easier to get around. McCall is a tourist trap town which has its own sale tax rate too. Typically like me my sales tax is 6% go to McCall every is 7%. Then if you want to see big jump go to Stanley, ID it 9% sales tax. Ontario, OR is ZERO sale tax, and Washington is 6.5% sale tax rate. I could drive for 6 hours round trip and still save more money in Lewiston/Clarkson than staying home and shopping local. Last trip took mere 5 gallons of fuel to get home. Fuel is even cheaper its right at 3.009 here locally for diesel head to the Indian reservation outside of Lewiston it was a mere 2.509 a gallon. WinCo is on the Idaho side where Costco and Walmart are on the Clarkston side. The other bonus typically the weather in Lewiston is warmer being its 750 feet above sea level. Gives us a day of being in the warmer weather typically. Now that Texas is froze up everything in Lewiston is a icy mess too.

Your close to what I'm running which is 22° @ 2500 RPM. Basically started at 13° and stepped up +4.5° per band. I've got another tune I need to test some day which I stepped +4.6° per band.

Sad, but true.

When your too retarded the engine sounds silent there isn't any rattle per say. When you over advanced the truck will buck then getting more aggressive there could be backfiring. Optimally watch over your timing and the engine load when you hit the sweet spot the engine load will drop considerable. The other is if you have the trans temp set up for engine oil temp as you get to advancing too much you'll see oil temp rise quickly. Engine coolant typically starts to rise too.

You want to build to what you plan on for road speed. Typically I build for 55 to 65 MPH. Now measure your flat rolling engine load limit now add maybe +2% to that number so it stays in cruise timing without bumping out with every roll of the hill. Just don't add much more timing than about 19* at 2,000 RPM. Cruise timing is good to have on flat ground but make sure it cancels once the truck starts pulling a grade. Low boost is the best way to run with cruise timing, you don't want high boost and added timing it would start breaking things. It could be your MAX timing is a bit too high and then stacking on either the retard (Max Load Timing) 2* which is dropping you to 12* in the 1,500 RPM band. Then once you jump to light load and gain timing your stepping back up to 16* in cruise state for the 1,500 RPM band. Look at both ways because if you step above 30% engine load your timing retards the -2* that you set vs engine load. Then when the engine load drops below 30% now your adding +2* to the MAX Timing value. I will say each and every truck has it own sweet spot for timing some like more retard and other like mine like more advancement. This is based mostly on the cetane (high cetane ignites easier!) of fuel and the pop pressure (higher the pop pressure the later the timing) set on the injectors and where the are at in life. This is one reason I set the span between 5 and 15 PSI at 100% fuel this allows for normal daily driver without having to drop the power level. I know that my wire tap and my fuel map ramp up together at the same time. Compared to you wire tap is starting out at 5 PSI. Fuel map is well above 100% at 8 PSI. Way I'm set up now is seriously crazy power. being the fuel map start climbing fairly hard past 15 PSI and the wire tap is set for 15 PSI and it start ramping up together. Now the tires turn to smoke and the truck is gone. You can do a similar setup for your towing tune and just move the wire tap and everything above 100% later in time. This way gives a nice wide area of stockish fuel map without adding a ton of EGT heat.

Correct. Just the prefix "4" separates the Wix and NAPA numbers.

That is for our 1998.5 to 2002 Cummins ISB racing performance oil filter. Donaldson is typically the one sold by most vendors.

I've only got three 15w panels (45w total) from Harbor Frieght and been doing fine with that small amount of charge. I've been watching Home Depot for panels and have some wonderful solar panels for good price. 300w of solar panels and solar controller too. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Grape-Solar-300-Watt-Off-Grid-Solar-Panel-Kit-GS-300-KIT/203505917 Now a kit like that I would think of possibly mounting just a single panel on the roof. Then hard wiring that panel to the controller and RV. That way while in storage it would have 100w worth of solar charge for the batteries and eliminate the need for city power for the house charger. The other two panels I would build a free stand frame like my current HF panels stand.

I've been studying the local area for camping spots. I've found several that you can work with in the early spring and even late winter if you RV is up to the task of cold weather. Being I live on a highway that run north and south, as the high runs north toward Whitebird you going down to about 1,200 above sea level. You can find places below the snow line to camp out. Have to be care on your choice being some large areas might have limit sunshine and be very cold in the early morning hours. We have already though about hitching up and heading towards the north in the lower section of the canyon for camping but then the snow came, still coming and it would be just a bad idea now.

No generator require for me. I run silent power. I set out my solar panels and have 120 VAC power through the RV without making a single noise. Now if there was a shade tree I would park the RV under the shade and keep it cooler and the put my solar panels out in the sun.

(Under my breathe) The only gun laws is the second amendment. It clearly state no other laws shall infringe. Which clearly states all American citizens can bare arms. So all the other laws seem to be infringing on the right to bare guns or weapons. Don't be sawed of shoot gun, too large of magazine, or any other laws they create to limit use or possession of said weapon that again is infringement. Federal regulation does stop law enforcement or other federal agencies follow these laws too they are exempt from these laws. Seem kind of one side only focused on the American Citizen. Weird how the laws are so crazy now.

Since the micron rating on the BHAF is a fixed number being you never wash it. Now all the Cold Air Intake Filter every time you wash the filter it losing it micron rating. So how many washes till the filter is nothing more than a screen door? I know K & N is a screen right out of the box. For all you that like washable air filter here you go a Cummins washable oil filter. If you trust your washable air filter go for the washable oil filter and tell me all about how it short the engine life. I'll wait...

Always got a kick out of majority of people that are upgrading batteries to large CCA and keep saying it start so much better in minus weather. I bet that these people have weak cables or excessive voltage drop in the main cables and making up for the weak connection with larger batteries. I'm up north too and see minus weather off and on and never needed to upgrade to Group 31 batteries... Like I said stock was 750 CCA and I'm only 810 CCA now still starting strong every morning for 19 years and 429k miles and rolling. Like the last 2 winters my truck has been outside for the entire winter, no block heater.

I've seen several trucks with high dollar cold air intake with blacken turbos from the amount of dust and debris passed through the compressor wheel. BHAF is the best option for clean air for your 2nd Gen.

I've seen cases where the head was cracked and pushing compression gases back in the fuel by the return line. What I would do is check the return line for excessive air blowing through. There is a quick connector there near the starter and you can add a piece of clear vinyl tubing to see the fuel as it travels. You can use a long piece and route it back to the fuel tank filler neck. Then you can start the engine and watch for air being introduced to the fuel. Usually a pump that is sucking air tends to lose prime quick after shutting down being the air continues to bubble into the line and return fuel to the tank dropping the pump prime. This would be seen after restarting as a sudden drop in fuel pressure to zero typically and then regains pressure within a few seconds typically. This is a air leak in the suction line typicaly.

Not suppose to let any positive pressure out, it's never suppose to created. This would be a sign of bad injector copper washer or loose injector or cracked head. As for vacuum is will allow vacuum to flow to equalize the tank as fuel is drawn in.

Should never vent air when removing the cap this mean the vent on the tank is plugged up. Just as shown the grey fitting is the vent and it does have a rollover valve too is if the truck is up-side-down then the valve will block fuel from draining. Very possible to have the valve plugged with mud which is common with pups that like 4x4 in deep mud.

That sound correct.

Terrain what makes it look like that. In a flat field it shows the full size of the pattern. Bank on the left to taper out the pattern then the patter to the right is a river bank dropping down below. Like I said I'll see about going out for some pictures tonight.

Not a very straight cut off... Possibly blind people there. So your hi part the beam hump would be the point you would have to lower to keep that out people's eyes. Morimoto HID and PIAA LEDs within the envelope of the Morimoto beam path. Still cut off straight. Nothing is above my cutoff line light wise and never blind anyone on lo beam. Hi Beam different story. The path of light is about 20 foot out my driver side past the ditch and then the passenger side another 50 foot in the field, then the top of the bean is over 50 foot tall at 1/2 mile or so. You can see that full 1/2 mile ot the corner and there is a little trailer parked on the hillside road. This is why I'll challenge anyone tell me old school lights reflector style is going to light better and also keeping the light out of everyones eyes. Just can't do it with reflector styled lights.

Your first link, I can tell you those are poor quality as well comparing to the Morimoto HID's. I've got several pups out here running those and still no where as good as the HID's. Most of them are looking for better lights yet even with these... http://www.anzousa.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/1/1/111065_11.jpg Problem is the still using a halogen dual filament or LED dual filament. hi/lo has to be reflected out the lens yet. Where Morimoto HID is a single filament and uses a shutter to make hi and lo beam cut off exact.

This right here would make me cringe now flipping bulbs positions trying to make a good light pattern. Being the reflector is going to reverse the pattern again. be careful you not changing elevation of the cutoff. Still the bad part is no matter what you do with bulbs and types of bulbs the pattern is only as good as the reflector. If the reflector part of the headlight is low quality then the rest of the pattern going to be poor regardless of what brightness of bulb, LED or Halogen the pattern will be poor. Again like my 1996 Dodge I went LEDs and Clear lens headlights. The reflectors or poor quality so the pattern is too. It might be brighter but hotspotted on the pavement. I'm going to see about get @Wet Vetteto run my 1996 Dodge out to a open area and let you compare both trucks. 1996 Dodge 1500 with clear lens headlights and LED's bulbs -= VS. =- 2002 Dodge 2500 with Morimoto HID's.

Don't sweat it I figured it on my own... You must of had a bird brained moment.

I wonder if he will actually pull it off. Seem every time Trump does something they call the Impeachment laws in to remove him. I which some people would call the impeachment laws on Pelosi she needs to be removed.

Same here group 27 batteries from the dealer. Even -30*F around here I've never had one issue getting started with 810 CCA (1620 total CCA) Walmart Batteries group 27's.