Mopar1973Man

Oh its going to work out just fine. I've known this truck for quite some time. Still low miles on the engine just needs the time and effort now.

Valid points. Right now I'm just looking at getting it ruunning and being profitable truck. Not planning on racing or serious performance at this time just make it run. I've got other things to gather up. Like all the electrical on the bed is shot. None of the tail lights work right now. All kinds of little things to fix. Already got gauges and exhaust brake on it. Need to get those huge tires off get the ratio setup for towing and climbing grades, don't need pavement princess, need a work truck. Yeah if anyone has 3rd gen wheels (17 inch) I'll take them, even do a trade.

Yup. I agree. He could of been bought me parts in a timely manner or money for the parts and allow me to order the parts. Nope didn't happen. My phone number has been the same for YEARS. Nothing stopped him from calling me. Nope didn't happen. His Dad's place is in Riggins, ID he has to drive past my place to get there. He didn't even help me push it out of the shop. I got the receipt for the Title from the bank. Once that is in my hands I've already got a clutch waiting for it. Yeah... I'm going to say it. But I'm going to buy a clutch from NAPA to get it running. There is no power mods at this time so stock clutch will be fine. Injectors I can get as well but that is a bit bigger expense for even my budget. Just get it running and Title, Registration, and Insurance. Being I've got it I might just get the 1996 Dodge ready for sale in the Spring give it a good cleaning up and get it gone. I don't need 3 trucks.

Got quite a few of the Ford 6.9L and Ford 7.3L out here. Then the Fire Dept runs a couple a of Ford 6.0L (Six Ohs!). Now with @Jthorowning a Ford and want to continue down that path sure I'll get my hands dirty learning Ford with him. Back to injectors... The Ford HEUI injector is the closest to the common rail idea. The injection pump and injector are built a single unit. The high pressure oil is used to do the pump work. Then the rest of the injector is most or less the same. Just Ford create a common rail of sort where there is two rails of fuel and oil. The oil again is used ot pump the fuel up to injection pressure. Then the fuel is lift pumped to the injector when the injection event occurs the high pressure oil pumps the fuel up to pressure spraying out the nozzles. Problem with HEUI Injectors is if the owner doesn't keep up with oil changes the debris can plug up the sensors, enhance wear of the injectors. Since I'm working with @Jthorhe's learning the right way to extend the life of his truck and making improvements ever day.

Pretty sure its 12mm. Just measure the old washer. https://www.dieselautopower.com/vulcan-bonded-sealing-washers-12mm

The biggest thing I was noticing in the passenger side injectors both #3 and #5 had crusty ash deposits around the nozzle holes. I can see this fouling the spray pattern. So quick inspect wipe the crud from the nozzles and redo the injector seals. We found #3 had a bad oil seal that was possibly leaking oil back up into the head. (Ford HEUI Injectors) which stands for Hydraulically actuated electronic unit injection.

Yeah I know It not my style to make a move like that but dang come down yard the trans out om y floor and leave it there. Never came back. Never got parts nothing. It was @Jthorwho said, "Let's make a profit from this!" So we looked at both selling out right but Both @Jthorand myself are looking at doing hotshot work as well. That would give us a good work truck. Both agree on puting locking toolbox on the bed. Then it could used a service truck for local work. Possbly hitch up the RV at travel for work. Or just tow trailers for people. We've got good plans on this truck. As soon as the sun comes up... Pictures...

Add into the study here... @Jthor has a 1995 Ford 7.3L Powerstroke which we are getting prepped to injector clean up and reseal. We done 1, ,3 ,5 on the passenger side head. 7 we didn't get out and do yet. We picked up the seal for the other head and glow plugs. Now all we gotta do is clean up the driver side. In the meantime I got him to grab a bottle od Power Service "Diesel Kleen" grey bottle (400:1 mix). Then going against my own guidelines dropped a shot of 2 cycle (128:1) and took it out for a run and it sure started to clean up the injectors and run a bit smoother. I told @Jthorto run that fuel through on his trip to Boise today. It should help cook the carbon and stuff off the nozzles. But we did notice a change in power and even running smoother after about 5 to 7 miles of adding the mix.

Well gang. I now added one more to my fleet of Dodge Trucks. I had my friend drop off his truck and needed a clutch I told him to help me out I would do it for him. After we found out hes going to need a full clutch and flywheel at the time. He didn't have the money. He just left the truck on my shop for over a month which I shoved it out into the yard. Just walked away. Fast forward 6 month. I get a nasty message from him telling me to more or less to F off and he doesn't need friends like me. Ok... He could been stopping by and dropping a hundred a paycheck and got him a clutch but nope. No phone calls, no dropping by, nothing... Even @Wet Vette was upset how he's just left his mess here for nearly a full year. So, what about the truck. @Jthorcalled the bank and found out he's not paid on his loan at all. @Jthorexplained to the bank how much work is needed on the truck to make it run. The bank ask Price $x,xxx and he still explaining about this empty box and how it needs to be assembled. Bank replies again how about $xxx!!! Yup I wrote a check for that small sum and ran to town to purchase my 2006 Dodge Ram 3500. We are in the process of getting the title before we move forward anymore once we have ownership. New Clutch New Injectors New Wastegate Solenoid Remove the front lift kit Remove the oversized tires Finish installing the rear shocks I'll post photos very soon... 2006 Dodge Ram 3500 (SRW) Flatbed with gooseneck ready. Stock Engine 5.9L 6 Speed G56 transmission. 4WD

Break point is 80°F. When IAT temperature dips below +80*F then the timing advances about 3° to 4°... This is where the poor fuel mileage comes from being high cetane fuel ignites early and fast adding timing on top of that is where the mileage drops out. You should retard the timing slightly for cetane. Not so much the cold air than what your local fuel is in cetane and then how much more cetane you add on top. More cetane the more retard the timing needs to be.

Kind of like my Cummins. Same 3 phase torque method. Final on my ARP425 studs where 125 Foot/Pounds as well. The only difference I never did a second warm torque at all. According ARP themselves a warm or hot torque is not suggested. 424k miles and rolling on the clock.

Hell yeah that a good one... LMAO!

Idaho is full petroleum diesel... Hard to find Bio. I think Oregon is B5 diesel.

Same here Oregon guys have issues at times. I would only get bio in the summer.

Whew... Long day but a got a steering box for my truck from Russ... Only thing that sucks is the box had water inside. I've got to flush the system in the morning. Vacuum pump is rebuilt and no more oil leaks from either the steering box (barrowed) and the vacuum pump which i nicked the seal installing the new power steering pump. Then since I gotta get power steering fluid to flush I'll deal with the wrong thermostat in the morning.

Trying to get ahead of the pile. Been busy here... Starting on the left... Red Dodge Ram needs a transmission service My Dodge I've got to do a vacuum pump seal I nicked the shaft seal. Blue Dodge I'm waiting for a thermostat to come from NAPA. Right Side... 2006 Dodge I just acquired for small price. Needs a clutch and a set of injectors. Blue Ford 7.3L needs injectors. My lil' 1996 Dodge1/2 ton is operational...

In our case the higher flash point is a good thing. Being the oil isn't used for the piston lubrication most of the video doesn't mean much. Being the purpose for use is to lube a injection pump and injectors BEFORE the fuel is even spray or burned in the cylinder. WAY different outlook being the parts of the piston are all lubed with engine oil. As for the 2 cycle oil in the pumps and injectors see much lower temperatures. Like for example my fuel temp is typically well below 140°F so its still oil and still lubing in the injection pump. Also take note we use much less oil since diesel is a oil in itself. 1989 to 2002 Dodge Ram suggest is 128:1 ratio (one ounce to one gallon of fuel) 2003 and up Dodge / Ram suggested is 200:1 ratio(just about 1/2 ounce to 1 gallon of fuel) Way different being we are not mixing at 50:1 or 40:1 like gasoline. I look at it this way today's diesel (petroleum) is typically 520 HFRR scored. Bosch requires <460 HFRR to meet Bosch's lubricity requirements.

Absolutely correct. Better gains on MPG once you get the timing dialed in on the Quadzilla and making better power with way less smoke. Well more smoke from the tires as they tend to spin from the extra power.

Just shows how other countries handle the COVID crisis. Far East no problem everyone continues on and has events and sports. America, lets fine you for not wearing a mask, make sure to stay away from friends or family. Let's close down everything and make it tougher on people. While all this is happening let raise the prices on food, entertainment services (hulu, etc), internet providers, cellphones providers etc.

All I can say after 85k miles of WalMart SuperTech my stock injectors were clean! Even at 350k miles my head is clean no carbon or ash build up. Even after 350k miles the pistons are clean too. Now let me grab some photos when I pull @Jthor injectors from his 7.3L Ford and we will see possible ash build up and carbon build up.

Yup not the first time I've seen that...

Totally true.

I'm getting tired of people say because of COVID we are delayed shipping, repairing, supplying, increasing prices (insert what fits or multiple). I could of drove to North Dakota had it serviced and then drove home in less time. Then your sitting here and watching TV and America everyone is shut down. Now watch Japanese figure skating the stands are full and no social distancing.

Yes only if the IAT falls below 80°F being the ECM is programmed to add another +3° to +4°of timing on cold air. Hence why the Mopar1973Man MPG Fooler fools to 143°F and MPG is gained back. Cold air hurts MPG's. How to check. Just turn the key to on and check the ECT and IAT temps at key on. If the ECT and IAT are the same then the sensor is fine. During this test don't use a block heater it will skew the results. Typically the IAT and ECT will be the same. If this checks out you just need more heat under the hood and keep the IAT warmer. Hence why I run winter fronts and BHAF can enjoy more under the hood warmth.