Mopar1973Man

If something weird happens... To reboot the ECM you just got to turn off the ignition and wait a 30 seconds to full minute. Then when you restart the truck the ECM and the Quadzilla both do a fresh reboot.

Might make sure you up to date with the most resent flash files.

If the Cummins ECM software is enabled you can't run the Quadzilla High Idle too. The two system tend to get in conflict and then stall out the engine. I typically turn off the Quadzilla high idle in the winter time and use the Mopar1973Man High Idle switch. This way I still can control high idle for the Cummins ECM and just shut off the Quadzilla. There is NO WAY to shut off the ECM software once its enabled. You would have to go to a dealer and have your ECM reflashed to disable the high idle function. All about that system...

You sure? Like myself I can run the Quadzilla high idle in the summer as long as the IAT is above 32*F at start up.

Also don't want to run high idle if there is the ECM software enabled. If your using the Mopar1973Man high idle kit you should shut off the Quadzilla High idle.

Very important not to try and build a power tune when its wet or icy. Very dangerous mix. I'm actually now tuned down to level 2 and my Daily Driver tune is very aggressive on the down low and if there is any water or ice the game is totally over the tires spin easy. @Wet Vette seen that on my last trip to Lewiston, ID.

With the server screwed up in the MySQL database and missing information I had to more or less REBOOT the database with fresh data from the software. Noiw things are working correctly.

Link to the write up?

80,000 miles during my 2 cycle oil testing and this what mine look like after 80k miles of 2 cycle oil usage at 128:1 ratio. 150k miles on the injectors.

Thanks Rogan...

No filter on my return line of even my wood splitter...

Exactly. I would never put a filter in the return line of the fuel system. Same reason I will not put a filter in the return line of the power steering either.

I'm too embarrassed to admit I've dropped a tree on my truck about 4 years after buying the truck. I've got that all fixed. Then after MoparMom pasted away I had to stop by and pay the bill for cremation. Then my truck breaks the parking brake cable and then rolls into a 4th gen truck. Denting the rear passenger side, cracking my taillight and adding a few more dents to the tailgate. One day soon maybe I'll get the insurance company to fix it. Got room behind that couch?

Sorry that is due to the server move...

That was my plan. I wanted to get it on the forum discuss it and then get it all put into an article. That way you can continue asking questions and I can try to add more to this topic and grow the article up more. There is a method to my madness...

Just 7°F outside. Period... I had to add just a touch more because it was so cold. Highway was frosty and freezing fog off and on.

Your right... Boost fooler is the electronic side in the tuner box that keeps the ECM from seeing actual boost value. The boost elbow is in the turbo.

Stock Injectors and Edge Comp on 5x5 I would pull at least 32 to 35 PSI on HX35W turbo. Even on my Edge Comp on 5x5 and RV275 injectors I was tipping over 40 PSI. Quadzilla and +150 HP injectors I'm now at 49 PSI. I'm starting to think his boost fooler isn't working correctly. Even with my Quadzilla removed and no boost fooler... I can still make a mere 24 PSI of boost with +150 HP injectors.

OK... Just to point out something. Boost leaks have to be HUGE to be seen in EGT's. I can unplug my wastegate hose leave it open and pull 1 manifold bolt out. I can still make 43 PSI out of 49 PSI. EGT only slightly rises (+50°F to +100°F) but you can audibly hear the air blowing out the holes. Minor leaks that weep are not going to create a EGT problem. I guess I'm going to have to get out a video camera and make a video. Boost leaks have to be HUGE to create EGT issues.

Need to get headed toward real tuner and control timing directly like Quadzilla. I have got bigger injectors and running wire tap and towing RV in desert temps in Arizona and never crossed over 1,200*F. Timing has a big impact in EGT's. Now I've got to ask do you have oversized tires? Common issue where people using oversized tires and 3.55 gears it will reduce your final ratio too low adding EGT's and engine load to the engine. 32 inch tires are the largest you can run on 3.55 gears. If you wanting to keep your oversized tire I suggest 4.10 gears.

I just made the run to Council, ID to go vote. Just with the morning temperature at +7°F I added more timing. Bumped it back up to (cruise timing) 21° at 2,000 RPM. This dropped my engine oil temp another -5°F and 163°F oil temperature even after climbed a 6% grade. Intake temperature was 75 to 87°F (Reaching that low point) Engine Oil Temperature 160°F to 168°F even after 54 miles. Fuel Temperature was 63°F to 77°F Engine Load was 16 to 22% Timing was 21° at 2,000 RPM Coolant was 188°F to 195°F Need to get my winter fronts installed...

Just buy a piece of silicone boost hose and extend it as much as needed. Length has no impact on the wastegate hose.

Just need to have the controller so when the switch is set for left your looking at left side pressures. Then flip to the right side now the gauge sees the right side pressures. So a singlwe switch and single gauge is fine. This allows for offset pressure for like your heavy one side you can adjust for the offset left and right weights then while you roll.

Late to the conversation but... If I was to upgrade to air bag I would do a in cab controller that is separated left and right controls. I had a job years ago where I was going to install a system like this then @MoparMom went into the hospital with kidney failure. I lost the job... There is in cab controllers for air bags so you can do everything in cab and not have ot adjust left and right fighting with a tire gauge and air hose.

The only thing I can think off is keep an eye out for a used DRBIII tool on eBay. I've seen a few members here pick them up for like $300 bucks. Super cheap and working.