Mopar1973Man

APPS typically will not make a limit to throttle.

@Dynamic he would know what work where...

Here you go the fix... Remember this is 2nd Gen but I've found heavy duty flashers made for LEDs for both my early second gen and my later seconds gen.

@IBMobile those error codes are cluster codes not P codes. @Cummins5.9 as for batteries. Just pull the two black leads from the driver side battery terminal. Those are the power supply to the grid heaters. Second off you don't have to disconnect the batteries. There is two fuses in the cab fuse panel you can pull out in plastic clips. One is the IOD fuse (Ignition Off Draw) this is just like pulling the battery terminal and shuts off the things that are tied ot the battery like radio memory, interior lighting, etc.

Just remember the mm3 is only a 60 HP box on our truck nothing more than a Smarty s-03 tuner. If you have the full meal deal with all the software, dongle, etc. That is a very expensive tuner for only 60 HP. There is no way to get more out of that mm3 on our trucks. It was actually designed more so for CR engine that mm3 will now do about 210 HP. Just a heads up tho... Quadzilla is 180 HP tuner design mostly around the VP44.

W-T ground wire mod? Did you check ECM and VP44 grounds?

Not possible if the injectors are torqued to 89 inch pounds. Even on worn copper washers. If you not doing the install correctly yes it possible to have a compression leak into the return rail. All I would do is double check the torque of the injector hold downs. The only way to get compression gases to the fuel tank typically is a cracked head.

No. It takes everything I got to just pull the shaft over the wastegate arm. It heavily sprung. No. P0237 code is a lo volt code for the MAP sensor and has zero to do with the wastegate.This is a sensor or wiring issue.

Yes there is... It's the cam sensor on the 2002 Dodge. The early series had the crank sensor at the crank. Now ther relocated the crank to the cam and the cam sensor was ditched. I just changed my landlords cam sensor. All you need is a allen wrench and patience. Even with my big hands I got in there pulled it out and replaced in about 30 minutes. He had the same problem.

Error Codes?

2.659 last time I looked in Riggins but in McCall its 2.799 for diesel.

Quadzilla Fuel line Gauges Injectors Quadzilla could provide gauges hence it could take lead. Fuel supply is important so fuel line next. Gauges and injectors could be swapped but then you can upgrade either one or both.

Nice... I've anchored down at home and continued to work the web site. Doing a few odd ball truck jobs. 1972 Ford F-750 fire truck...

I would jump at the Quadzilla first. You'll be able to tune around wore injectors to a small degree. If the pop pressure is low you can retard timing to bring the injection event back to time. You can watch the engine load at idle to determine when the injectors should be changed. I'm idling at 7% now from the orignal 13% I had went I first installed. I've got half life for my injectors. Then you are aware of the injector health and when they need to be changed then you can set timing to make up for the early events because of low pop pressure. There are variables like injectors and pumps that are going to be a bit different. Like my injectors are 7 x 0.010 but popped at 320 bar. This changes timing and makes the injector fire late so I can add more timing that most with standard pop pressure. Now at this point I'm wore down enough to be a standard 7 x 0.010 at about 300 to 310 bar now. My next release of tune should fit more people. Injection pumps wear as well and the cam ring will loose some of the lift on the lobes and the pump get a bit shorthanded. Again a variable... So for the most part it should work but might require a bit of tweaking. Degree here or there of timing or fuel map.

Hopefully sooner... I can get you going on a good tune that make some MPG for ya. I'm now getting my hands dirty with performance tunes and needless to say it not helping the life span of the tires. No coal smoke but I can tire smoke if I wish... I don't even have to hit WOT but just roll into the throttle and boost snaps to and the tires lose the battle of torque. I've done a bit of study on how my RV towed on the Quadzilla and have a good idea how to build a good tune that helps MPG's but add some towing power for grades if needed. 7 x 0.010 injectors seriously you can just play on CANBus fuel and when you need a ace up the sleeve you can turn up the level above 3 and whip a another truck. Kind of cool to roll around like near stock and get challenged and turn on the wire tap and whip a 4th gen... Now that's fun!

You can get starter tunes here... https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/ If you want you could call me at 208-315-1470 and I'll guide you on tuning a Quadzilla.

Yeah I just looked at that... Wow!

Skip the XZT you can't adjust the tune to fit the truck. Not as efficient.

Deal with the codes first... P1689 is a power of communication problem with the VP44. P1698 is a CCD bus issue. Then 1500 RPM problem is a ECM problem typically that has been damaged. I've seen a few being damaged PSG units on the VP44.

Quadzilla tuner is the for sure bet. You could use some of my tunes. I'm now working on 3 tunes... Economy updates Performance building Towing building My economy tune currently on my phone is now pushing upwards into the 20's for sure. My current one I dropped the fuel map quite a bit and amped up the timing again. Then the performance tune I'm wider spread of timing. Then pretty steep fuel curve and plenty of wire tap this one is hot running. Now my tow tune is coming into shape a little at a time. I'm hoping to reach a good solid 14 MPG on the trailer.

My offer is open... If you want I can guide you on building tunes or you can give me call at 208-315-1470 and I'll school you over the phone the best I can.

Good video... I'm still kind of upset about how all this corona virus (COVID-19) is being handled. Still having issues finding pulbic restrooms and places to wash your hands when out in public. Trying to just go shopping and waste an 15 to 30 minutes waiting in lines to just enter the stores. Washington and Oregon both are now letting only limited count of people enter stores. This makes a long day after driving 3 hours to the city and then having to wait in more lines. Me personally I've called my best friend @Taz and his girl friend and had them come out yesterday and help me move furniture and junk out of the house. Threw out Mom's 35 year old couch, and old cabinet I used for computer stuff. Been working hard at cleaning up the house and getting things in a functional state while the corona virus runs. All the stuff of Mom's that I will be up for sale is being moved to the Guest house for now till Corona Virus finishes. Eileen has been up and working as much as she can. My current project working on a carb...

All good... No problem that why we all come here o hang out is to help out with all problem regardless if they seem foolish or stupid. We all learn from each others mistakes and ideas. Don't sweat it.

Stock truck no tuner or nothing will typically net you about 16 to 17 MPG. Being he doesn't have a tuner I can see there isn't any more that can be done for now. I would also have the injectors tested or replaced. If the injectors are older than 100k miles they are done and worn out. Even if it still runs good the pop pressures will be too low and MPG usually suffers from the poor atomization.

Grid heater solenoids can stick and drain a battery out over night. My landlord was having this issue and was calling in a panic because the truck battery is dead. WTS light is damaged in any way will throw a P0381 code. If the ECM is having troubles booting up because of internal software errors it will lag getting the WTS light lit. The ECM will not function till the WTS light comes on. This is the first instruction that the ECM will check the IAT and set the WTS light.