Mopar1973Man

Last time I checked it was like 48 to 53 in the dead of winter. I've not been driving my truck much lately. Waiting on my transmission to come back.

Thanks for posting the solution.

Clutch will cancel but the RPMs will flare up and ECM will cancel. No switch on the clutch. Center button on the right will cancel. Brake pedal will cancel.

Fuel pressure...

When you advancing timing typically EGTs will go down, unless your still too retarded. I can bump 23 degrees at 2k RPM and EGTs are about 100 degrees lower.

I've used the existing lift pump and use it to drain the fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets. Then the tank is pretty light in weight. Easier to let the tank down a bit on a jack to reach the fuel lines and wiring on top. Some people rather lift the bed off if you have a front end loader or shop hoist.

Bosch RV275 are already popped and test by Bosch there is no customizing an RV275 other than that you lose the warranty. Too small of a injector to add pop pressure. Need to get above 100 HP to start thinking about adding pop pressure. 7 x 0.010 you can safely add +10 bar no problem. Still be better off with a tuner though.

Empty driving not really. Towing most likely. The retarded timing was though to reduce cylinder pressures. Which it will but the cruising timing will be too low to be efficient which when you missing efficiency typically the result is added heat somewhere. Hence why the start of the power craze everyone have smoke rolling. Quadzilla is the only tuner right now with adjustable timing and producing about 180 HP. Smarty Touch could too but at a cost of $1,800 for the full programming package and the tuner only produces 60 HP on our trucks, on CR Engine is 210 HP tuner. Basically over glorified Smarty S-03. Only stock or RV275 injectors. This are both stock Cummins ISB and Cummins ISB motorhome series injectors. How much engine load at idle? This will tell you. Typically injectors are done by 100k miles. Engine load will drop to zero which is the deepest the ECM can cut fuel. After this point the idle will start to rise. Injectors are failing at low (like 1 or 2%) to zero engine load.

When you replace the blower motor because the bearings are bad. Then right next to the blower is a another plug. This little unit is the blower resistor and is held in with 2 Phillips screws. The only reason why the blower resistor failed is because the bearing on the motor dried out and stiffened up, this causes rises in amps drawing through the resistor and getting too hot it shatters in the HVAC box. Always replace as a pair.

Basically without a tuner the timing will be off and the exhaust gets smokey. ECM is tune rather on the retarded side. Bigger injectors require more timing to be efficient. I'm running 7 x 0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar now with a Quadzilla Adrenaline and it completely smoke free reaching 21 MPG with the tuner. With wire tap I'm tuned for just a haze and it pulling serious power, enough to spin the tires on dry asphalt. Without the tuner its very smokey. This is again because the stock ECM is tuned for stock injectors and timing is retarded pretty deeply after 20% engine load. Starting I've been down to -20*F no issue.

Get the o-ring... Harbor freight has o-ring kits for super cheap.

That would be my first spot to look. Go back over the the rear right. Then I've seen problems with mine with the tone ring coming free and the sensor was fine but the tone ring was slipping. Since mine is 2nd gen I had to replace the unit bearing on the front axle.

Ahhh... Yup he's going to need a adapter for the metric straight threads.

Exhaust brake. 180k to 200k on brakes. I'll never go without a exhaust brake.

NAPA sells a replacement clip too. Mine just broke the same way...

Remove the fuel pressure gauge... Then set the fuel pressure warning to ZERO.

Every time you turn the key off and back on the ABS computer reboots and checks the status of the ABS sensors. As soon as I fixed the problem on my truck it reset the light in less than 100 feet.

Why all this? Quadzilla Trans Temp Sensor screws right into the oil filter housing no fittings required. The hole is 1/8 NPT.

Doesn't matter... I've tried Donaldson 3um, Fleetguard 3um, AirDog 3um filters all them pass dirt. The 7um in the stock always has some dirt in it.

Installed mine in the test port at the oil filter on top of the oil cooler.

Don't delete the factory filter. KEEP IT! I run both 3 micron filter on the AirDog 150 but a 7 micron filter in the stock filter. I found out that even the 3 micron filter on the AirDog is passing dirt on to the stock filter and the 7 micron is catching. Yes you have to drop the tank for installing the straw... Stock 7 micron, and the AirDog 150 3 micron cut open...

You'll need to either install a draw straw... I would suggest a AirDog 150 or similar or mechanical pump.

Shoot... Ask away...

Engine load and engine oil temperature. As timing advances the engine oil temperature will rise. Then when you retard it will fall. I'm aiming for lower engine oil temperature and low engine loads. I'm now at 21 MPG last tank ran. Pretty soon I'll be back to advanced timing and summer fuel with cetane at 40 to 43. During the summer I aim for about -10*F lower engine oil temperature than coolant. In the winter is about -30*F lower than coolant. As you advance timing there is more flame front on the cylinder walls heating the coolant more hence the engine oil can be cooled as much on the 2nd gens.

Also be aware that all upgraded Mopar Tie Rod Ends had a recall back awhile ago. NAPA was included in this recall too. Stock stuff was no affected. Double check the part number to make sure it was superseded.