Mopar1973Man

Back in my days of the Edge Comp I use to get 23 to 24 MPG as long as you did 55 MPH as a top speed. This is because the timing will drop sharply after 20% engine load. Edge products basically just add timing on top of the ECM software. Quadzilla doesn't use the ECM timing table at all. Quadzilla is completely standalone timing while moving under load. As long as you can tune to the peak for the drive style it should improve the MPG. This is all based on how much drag and road speeds your requesting. If your conservative in speeds you can typically push an extra 1 MPG more.

Quadzilla and 7 x 0.010 is close to 500 HP to the ground.

ECM, PCM and VP44 are ground through the passenger side battery terminal. If you do the W-T ground wire mod then the ground will be on the gear case next to the VP44. MAP sensor has zero to do with idle state. Need error codes there could be a... AC noise issue from the alternator flooding the ground with noise. Could be a damaged VP44 and/or ECM being the idle software is damaged in the ECM or the VP44 is not listening correctly.

No turbo needed for RV275 or +50 HP. No exhaust needed either. I ran 3" exhaust for over 275k miles. No EGTs issues for daily driver. +50 HP injectors last I checked at DAP are cheaper than RV275's. When boost exceeds 45 PSI. You'll need at least a 7 x 0.010 injectors. Even back with the +75 HP injectors barely made 40 PSI of boost where the 7 x 0.010 injectors are 47 to 48 PSI of boost roughly. Stock HX35 turbo is good for at least 35 PSI of boost.

Ibmobile is right.

Eileen is back at McCall, ID St. Lukes hospital. Her chest pain, vomiting, etc. returned. I rushed her to the hospital at about 2pm yesterday. I left this morning and went back up to get more information about what is going on. Still fighting to control the pain and control her blood sugar. I don't have much info right now. I waited nearly 4 hours for the doctor to get off the phone so I could find out more. I'm currently fielding all the phone calls for Eileen and I've got family members wanting to know what is going on. I came home to feed the wood stove and get a meal in me. Last meal for me was at 4pm yesterday, now eating at 2pm my breakfast. With my past haunting me with Mom's passing and the loneliness and the excessive quiet is really hard to keep my focus. (time lapse) I had a fire call and just got home.

245s and 265s were stock sizes. If you want larger tires you need 4.10 gears.

Not possible... all these people do not have a corrected odometer to track distance accurately. Everyone I told to use a GPS to track distance told me the MPG was much worse. Cummins engine isn't designed for 35s with 3.55 gears. When working with tires you need to aim for 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground after calculating tires. At 3.69:1 to the ground at 80 MPH I'm twisting 2,500 RPMs and hit 20 MPG everytime. Even a few times hit 21 MPG. Corrected odometer exactly on the money with GPS. I made my gains in dropping 31 inch tires and switching to 30 inch 245/75 R16.

RPM too low and timing too high. Cruise at 65 MPH needs to be closer to 2,000 RPM. Then your timing should be close to 18 to 19 degrees at 2,000 RPM's not at 1650 RPM. Should be much lower. Again this is tire issue impacting you. The problem with our truck between the injection pump to pump the line up, inject fuel, cetane ratings, pop pressure of the injector, nozzle size, etc. All these variables will change what timing you use. Then in your case 35 inch tires that now change your final ratio to 3.2x:1 roughly compared to some like myself with 3.69:1 ratio to the ground. Tires and gearing will impact you timing figures because of the required retard to launch then cruising RPM is too low.

Last time I checked it was like 48 to 53 in the dead of winter. I've not been driving my truck much lately. Waiting on my transmission to come back.

Thanks for posting the solution.

Clutch will cancel but the RPMs will flare up and ECM will cancel. No switch on the clutch. Center button on the right will cancel. Brake pedal will cancel.

Fuel pressure...

When you advancing timing typically EGTs will go down, unless your still too retarded. I can bump 23 degrees at 2k RPM and EGTs are about 100 degrees lower.

I've used the existing lift pump and use it to drain the fuel tank into 5 gallon buckets. Then the tank is pretty light in weight. Easier to let the tank down a bit on a jack to reach the fuel lines and wiring on top. Some people rather lift the bed off if you have a front end loader or shop hoist.

Bosch RV275 are already popped and test by Bosch there is no customizing an RV275 other than that you lose the warranty. Too small of a injector to add pop pressure. Need to get above 100 HP to start thinking about adding pop pressure. 7 x 0.010 you can safely add +10 bar no problem. Still be better off with a tuner though.

Empty driving not really. Towing most likely. The retarded timing was though to reduce cylinder pressures. Which it will but the cruising timing will be too low to be efficient which when you missing efficiency typically the result is added heat somewhere. Hence why the start of the power craze everyone have smoke rolling. Quadzilla is the only tuner right now with adjustable timing and producing about 180 HP. Smarty Touch could too but at a cost of $1,800 for the full programming package and the tuner only produces 60 HP on our trucks, on CR Engine is 210 HP tuner. Basically over glorified Smarty S-03. Only stock or RV275 injectors. This are both stock Cummins ISB and Cummins ISB motorhome series injectors. How much engine load at idle? This will tell you. Typically injectors are done by 100k miles. Engine load will drop to zero which is the deepest the ECM can cut fuel. After this point the idle will start to rise. Injectors are failing at low (like 1 or 2%) to zero engine load.

When you replace the blower motor because the bearings are bad. Then right next to the blower is a another plug. This little unit is the blower resistor and is held in with 2 Phillips screws. The only reason why the blower resistor failed is because the bearing on the motor dried out and stiffened up, this causes rises in amps drawing through the resistor and getting too hot it shatters in the HVAC box. Always replace as a pair.

Basically without a tuner the timing will be off and the exhaust gets smokey. ECM is tune rather on the retarded side. Bigger injectors require more timing to be efficient. I'm running 7 x 0.010 injectors popped at 320 bar now with a Quadzilla Adrenaline and it completely smoke free reaching 21 MPG with the tuner. With wire tap I'm tuned for just a haze and it pulling serious power, enough to spin the tires on dry asphalt. Without the tuner its very smokey. This is again because the stock ECM is tuned for stock injectors and timing is retarded pretty deeply after 20% engine load. Starting I've been down to -20*F no issue.

Get the o-ring... Harbor freight has o-ring kits for super cheap.

That would be my first spot to look. Go back over the the rear right. Then I've seen problems with mine with the tone ring coming free and the sensor was fine but the tone ring was slipping. Since mine is 2nd gen I had to replace the unit bearing on the front axle.

Ahhh... Yup he's going to need a adapter for the metric straight threads.

Exhaust brake. 180k to 200k on brakes. I'll never go without a exhaust brake.

NAPA sells a replacement clip too. Mine just broke the same way...

Remove the fuel pressure gauge... Then set the fuel pressure warning to ZERO.