Mopar1973Man

Stainless Diesel is I think 1,049 HP on fuel only on SO VP44.

Regardless it being pulled gear lube isn't going to fix it. Gear oil would make all gears grind. Clutch is not it. 1st, 2nd, and 5th work fine. 3rd grinds 100% of the time, 4th only at highway speeds it grinds. Still under warranty still. Hence why I'm pulling it. Also trans was warranty with the Mobil 50. Even then it's covered.

ECM does not ground through the body. ECM is grounded to the passenger side battery directly. Hence the WT ground wire mod,

I know there are several people here with deep pockets and can do anything. My clutch is new already (Dual disc Valair) which I hate nasty launch chatter. It's worse than my old single ConOFE South Bend. But I own it for now. These are the syncros from way back on the first rebuild when I broke the mainshaft back at 250k miles or so. Lots of both highway and city driving. (Broken the mainshaft right at 3rd and 4th gear with Edge Comp and stock injectors) Then the other thing most don't know is @Wet Vette is have heart issues so that kept me from working this last month with running back and forth to ER and the hospital in Boise. Then @MoparMom has skin cancer and dementia starting. Which now is taking more of my working time for her appointments here soon. Which all these affect what I've got for income and what I can repair. But hey I did have a thread stated talking about my crazy life but I got complaints about it so it was deleted. But then there people thinking I'm living the high life and no worries in the world... Far from true...

No, I was cheap and lacking funds and told him just repair whats broken. Abe @ Weller Truck only opened the rear cover and just repaired 5th gear. If I would of order a full kit like this time I would of got it. So I paid for being cheap and not having a fat income like most others here on the forum. Trust me its not the oil. Knowing that my clutch was also worn out I had to balance between repair of the transmission and the clutch hence why no full rebuild. Most of you have to remember I live off of less than $10,000 a year. I'm sure most you make 3 times or 5 times this much. If I'm driving for my Mom 3 days a week for dialysis. Then trying to work the other 3 days and taking 1 day off on Sunday. People tend to forget I'm not working a normal 5 day a week paying job. Any way I'm out of Mobil 50 nothing left.

Better look at other Cummins engines most all of them are on the block. All the Cummins engines used in Dodge and Ram truck are on the side of the engine block. Heat, vibration never been an issue. Biggest issue is the AC noise from the alternator and the ground wiring which there is a W-T ground wire mod. I'm at 407k miles and still rolling. @dripley is nearly 500k miles and still rolling.

Leave it on the block nothing gained by moving.

@cajflynn is our record holder at 1.3 million miles on a 53 block 2nd Gen. Oil changes every 20k miles.

Tie rods ends for me last 350k miles with the factory OEM stuff. Ball joints are still going after 200k miles something I bought on RockAuto for super cheap.

Price of gasoline drop hard in Idaho. $2.479 to $2.559 a gallon vs $3.259 or $3.459 a gallon for diesel. Not to mention I've gotta pull the transmission again. Weller truck only rebuilt 5th gear. All the other gear have worn syncros. I use a lot of 3rd and 4th in the city. Now between all that is going on here with medical issues and weather I'm delayed on pull the transmission. I can't be zero'ed out. The odometer goes to 999,999 miles and then stops right there. You would have to send the cluster in to be zero by a rebuilder. @cajflynn is the one that found that out.

My mother (MoparMom) has to have dialysis treatment every Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday. That trip is 125 miles one way, 250 miles to return home. Then any extra miles doing grocery shopping, medical appointments, etc. So last time I checked I've been running about 1,000 to 1,200 miles a week. What I've got to deal with... 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 V8 for now...

Valvoline 15w-40, NAPA 15w-40, or Chevron Delo 15w-40 Typically using NAPA Gold Filter Roughly 62,400 miles a year. Currently 407k miles and counting... Already had the head off and cylinders still looked good at 350k miles when the coolant jacket blew on the head gasket at the rear of the head.

I'm running 10,000 change intervals but using standard petroleum oils. Only keep my oil for roughly 1.5 month to 2 month at the Maximum time which in that time I've cover 10,000 miles. Roughly 1,200 miles a week.

Dead pedal with P012x error code is APPS sensor.

Not the only time I've seen that happen. Lots of people jump to mechanical pumps then it hits with lack of prime or air leak and the mechanical pump won't reprime or pump till it refilled with fuel. Remember I work with many people not just here on the web site. I do work in two different shops and many different vehicles. You might have that covered with a CAT filter but most just keep the stock filter.

Just wait till the day you have an air leak or lose prime while you out... You'll never get it started.

Any thing with with modern Android version 9.0.

Just remember if the Assassin pump loses prime it will be dead where it sits. Without a electric priming pump it will not self prime and run again. The other mechanical pump can be set up with a electric priming pump but is a big mess of plumbing to make it work.

Still to this day exhaust brake is the best braking system out that reduces brake pad / shoe wear. Most all people with exhaust brake are reaching 150k to 200k miles out of brake pads/shoes.

My source is Ryan at Blue Top Steering. He informed me that after 2003 when ATF was used in the power steering system is because the old Sagnaw boxes were replaced with Ford Steering boxes. This continued since 2003 using Ford steering boxes. So this why 2003 and up is ATF and 2002 and back is power steering fluid.

That should work the duralast kit.

I missed something here. I thought it was power steering upgrade... Never mind.

Ummm... You do realize that 2003 and up Dodge trucks and Ram Trucks are FORD power steering boxes and power steering pumps?

Usually shows green is warm up mode. The turns red in run mode. But if the level is set for ZERO then it will show a black bar and the Quadzilla is turned off. Double check your setting and tune it could be push back to default tune.

Correct. The pump remains on the vacuum pump. Just the reservoir can is removed. You might ask @Blue-Top Steering if he can get them...