Mopar1973Man

PCM does not ground through the case. Ground is the passenger side battery.

I did the Gates 34212 on that listing thinking Gates was a good quality T stat. Mine failed the in the first week. Went back to Napa... Haven't tried again since. Money is tight and time is even tighter.

If the protection fuse is blowing out its the blue wire to the field lead is either shorted to ground internally in the alternator or in the wiring. This is NOT a PCM ground issue. It a +12V feed issue from the PCM to the alternator and is drawing excessively on the field wiring. So if it was me iif you replaced the fuse and unplugged the alternator field lead and the fuse does not blow then the wiring is fine. The alternator is shorting out and need to be replaced.

I've been a Android person for years. So far I've used... LG G3 LG G4 LG G5 Aspen Tablet The only one I seen a problem with is the Aspen tablet it was far to old of a Android software which couldn't paint the screen properly. Currently the LG G5 works fairly good. I'm bluetoothed to a stereo, can make phone calls and voice controlled texting, and run the Quadzilla. Now as for Sumsung Android phone there is a few software issues I remember but not sure if they where fixed yet or not. iPhone seem to have issues I'm just not sure why and don't own one to understand...

I would have to say mounting location makes a huge difference. My AirDog 150 is mounted behind the transfer case. The coldest I've ran was -40*F and never gelled once. I do not use any anti-gel products either and have no fuel heater in the AirDog. Now another truck I installed a FASS 150 for a gent and install as FASS suggested location he's had nothing but troubles with that truck. It's froze and gelled up way easier than my truck and we both ran together for a week. My truck always started and ran the same fuel he was. His truck was gelled up and froze too many times and required a lot of 911 and heat to get fuel flowing. Location of the pump does make a difference. Being everything else is the same fuel, temperature and working times side by side.

We have the same thing here... https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

Yes sir you need to select 2nd gear it should start in 1st gear.

@Wet Vette and myself were talking about breaking loose from city services and modern technology. I'm fully set up for cutting the city power at anytime. Then live off the solar and batteries as much as possible. Even my RV is set up with a cheap 1,200 watt inverter and the house battery and meger little 45w solar panel. We've also got the hurricane lamps and the wood stove for heat and light. Average power outage is 24 hours out here. The longest that I remember is 21 days back in the 1996 flood and mudslides here.

Still running my old AirDog and ISSPro EV2 gauges. Then on top I've got the fuel pressure gauge programmed for 13 PSI warning light. Very attention grabbing.

Fly by wire has no mechanical parts. PCM reads the road speed and pass fueling message on to the ECM by wire. This is true for manuals in the later years. Now all Automatics have a vacuum motor being the 46RE, 47RE and 48RE need mechanical movement for the throttle valve in the transmission.

Most likely the governor pressure sensor and governor pressure solenoid. Select 2nd gear it should start in 1st gear. If so the it is what I said. Check error codes too.

Better off using an ohm meter on DVM. Laser is to show location. The measurement is all Infra-red. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pwGS4Yn5qLo (Just for fun...)

Not true. All alternators are typically rebuilt in the states. But I will tell you that all diodes are from China even the high amp ones. I've been trying to source out USA made diodes but they do not exist. Since I did the two mods all the failures have stopped completely. Even the cheap NAPA one I've got now is closing in on 100k miles. The two mods stop the failure issues.

I've got a HF IR gun for cheap and the temperatures are fairly correct as long as it calibrated for the material your measuring. There is calibration process for each material. All in the user manual.

Excessive AC noise and need to do the W-T ground wire mod. That will fix that problem.

iPhones are suppose to use the WiFi head and the Android is suppose to use Bluetooth. Something about iPhones can't Tx/Rx data on bluetooth. I'm running Android head and phone. The only connection problem I've got is just getting the bluetooth to just connect long lags and several tries later it will hook up. Once hooked it does well. Double check make sure the head type is right for our device. I can't help beyond that being I've never used a WiFi head on a Quadzilla. Might ask @Quadzilla Power he'll be able to tell ya.

Yeah I want to try the 200*F thermostat. NAPA doesn't stock any 200*F thermostats. I jumped on RockAuto and spotted the Gates thinking great name to buy. Week later I was pulling it out because of wild temperature swings and install a 190*F NAPA. Back to the 192-194*F solid temperature. Still want to try a 200*F but not sure where to buy it. Nope don't say Cummins or Mopar. Not happening... I don't want the crappy fall apart Robertshaw design. Even NAPA has two series for the 1996 Dodge. The 192 and the 195*F for the V8 gas engines. Rock solid temperature right at 195 to 197*F. Too small for the Cummins.

Same here. I went the silent direction. 4,000 watt 120 VAC Trace Inverter and solar and hydro power sources. The recovery time between power failure and inverter is about 5 ms for the relay to close. This provide up to about 24 hours of light loads with no generator. I've got a 6,500 watt gasoline generator to cover for the next day if there is no solar or hydro power which you can run to charge the batteries and heavy load. It's rare to start the generator I gave up on the electric start battery for the generator long time ago. The fuel has to be drained and removed after use it might be YEARS before needed next time. 99% of the time I just ride the batteries. The house is converted to LED lights and modern appliances that draw less power. You can still use the laundry mat, well pump, water heater (if backed by the generator), TV and internet (if the local battery is still going at the switch.) The only way to tell if the power is out is check the HVAC head for LEDs lit up if not the city power is gone.

Last Gates 200*F I bought didn't last 1 week. Very wild up and down swings in temperature. Down as low as 168*F and the way up to 220*F on open.

Even the filter I'm running on my little AirDog 150 is about 60k mile filter. His will be like 250k miles... Even more...

I gave up on Edge products long ago. Don't get me wrong I run the Edge Comp for 10 years still own it. The problem is Edge has way too many play toys and nothing for tuning. Screens are way too small. Force to have a tuner displayed in the cab. (theft problem and cop problem). Cops love to hand out speeding tickets seeing the tuner hanging on the a-pillar. With the Quadzilla it can be headless and there is nothing left in the cab for a cop to see or thief for see. Quadzilla does provide full timing control and fueling control.

Yes sir there is a video of that.

No. If you take a 1 ounce sample and leave it expose to the air the oil should be left after everything evaporates. Power Service will turn into a thick tarry mess. This is no a lubricant if the oil is not there after evaporation. Mostly what you see is cetane booster that reduced the BTU's. 2 Cycle oil stay 2 cycle oil forever. 2 Cycle is a natural cetane reducer, it is a true burnable a lubricate.

Timing needs to be based off of cetane, injector pop pressure, and for other conditions. You could have a Hotrod pump and then have low popped injectors like 305 bar and that would negate most of that. Injectors fire larte but the pump fires early. Then cetane could swing it early or late again depending if the cetane is low or high.

Double check for the P0381 code. Bad WTS light. If no P0381 code the ECM is brain dead.