Mopar1973Man

After doing the W-T ground wire mod all alternator problems stopped. No longer need a upgraded alternator like Nations or Mean Green. Now my ND alternator is completely noise free and handles all the electrical requirement without any issues. Alternator failures stop completely. The biggest thing is the charge lead is the farthest from the ECM, and VP44. Then these grounds are now cut about 4 feet shorter and travel away from the alternator. No need for upgraded alternator. Biggest thing is taking a Quadzilla and set the warm up temp to about 160 to 170*F and then set the delay for about 30 second for high idle. Now when you start the alternator is kept up on high idle and grid heater load doesn't cause damage because the engine RPM's are up and the alternator can hold the electrical load better and then the fan in the alternator can keep the diodes and windings cooler!

Here is the full wiring of the ECM and VP44 connection. Fuel pump relay in the upper right corner is controlled by the ECM to turn on the power from the ECM. As for the key switch... Follow the Start / Run part of the switch and it goes to the next photo. Now here is the start / run circuit of the key switch.

I'm running 7 x 0.010 injectors (150 HP), HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12), Quadzilla Tuner. I've towed plenty of heavy loads. Right now I'm getting prepped for making a trip sometime in the future. I'll be going south to meet my other family (Eileen's Mom, Eileen, Grandmother, Etc.) I know my RV combo puts me at about 17,000 pounds. I'm going to increase and add the ATV and more supplies since the trip will be long. Then come back from all that then get prepped for firewood hauling like I've done in the past. I've might have to haul another pickup down here on a flatbed trailer as well. I'm in process in making new tunes. I managed to get my economy tune (summer) hitting much better. Passing the 20 MPG mark for sure. Quadzilla hovers at about 24 to 35 MPG in instant MPG display at 65 MPH. Now my new towing tune is going to be great in keeping the EGT's controlled and provide as much power with out getting excessive hot. Yeah, I have enough power to run the EGT as high as I wish. My full list of mods (4 pages)... https://mopar1973man.com/garage/vehicle/101-2002-dodge-ram-2500/?show=mods

No. There is no way to properly clean or inspect the evaporator while the HVAC is in the vehicle. It requires removal and disassembly to even clearly see the evaporator. I done several cleaning running a garden hose in the fan hole and trying to rinse the evaporator. This doesn't work very well some of the lose material comes out but the dried and caked mud will not come out and air restriction still remains, and performance is marginal. The only way I found was full removal and power washing the entire case and evaporator core. Yeah the evaporator can with stand a full 3,000 PSI power washer up to about 9 inches away without damage. I've got experience with early 1970's dashes and heater cores even was unsoldering the tank heads and rodding them out 20 years ago. Then with modern Dodge truck I've done too many to count on the 2nd Gen's. Then now getting my feet wet with 3rd Gen setups which are bigger pain in the compared to the 2nd Gen design. I would ALWAYS remove aclean. lube, and inspect the entire case. Using short cuts and avoiding the full job is going to bite you later and FORCE you to remove the HVAC in the future. 2nd Gen is the EASIEST to do.

Wiring issue between the ECM and the sensor. Check for open wires or shorts to ground.

You can check voltage of the bus in the obdii port. 2.49 and 2.51 volts in reference to body ground. This is bus + and bus -.

ECM damaged... Time to rebuild it first. Now also do the W-T ground wire mod and the alternator protection fuse too.

Some of us just went for the AirDog 150 and still running after 250k miles. I only had to replace the pump motor. The OE AirDog was a 2G pump. That went the 250k miles. Now the 3G pump barely lasted 7k miles and failed with bad seal and ate the shaft bearing locked up. 4G pump 165 GPH now I'm rolling and we'll see how far the 4G AirDog does. So far its stable 15 to 17 PSI.

P0341 is cam sensor failure and most likely why the tach isn't working. Just replace the sensor its only one allen screw and pull it out. P0230 is lift pump out of range most like the lift pump is pulling more amps or none at all. What is your fuel pressure like? This will make a impact on timing and could cause change in engine noise being the fuel pressure isn't there.

Your about on track for most part. We stay in touch with Eileen's best friend down in Boise she is a nurse. I've dug in and found my own sources of info.

Nice and beefy for the steering.

On this side of the Corona Virus. For me its still been very hard on me. The biggest thing is being stuck in the very house that Mom lived in with all the reminders of her. Still have times when I see any object like Mom's favorite candy in a jar, I'll some times just lose it. Could be a photo or article of clothing and break down and start crying. As soon as the quarantine is over I'm packing up and hauling south in the RV. My work performance is not good these days and difficult to focus at times. Again in a house full of reminders. Spent a full month throwing out stuff and sorting through all of mom clothing and personal stuff. Even typing this is getting me choked up. I've been wanting to start a new life but the entire world is on hold and extremely difficult to move forward. I just need a break from this. Eileen has been a wonderful help and also there to heal my broken heart at times. Cleaning out kitchen, living room two bedrooms, and bathroom. The upstair level is nearly completed. Still got the entire guest house which is a wreck and then the entire basement we are still working on sorting stuff. Cleaning out a freezer and entire food cellar. Watching truck loads of stuff go to the dump including a couch and other stuff. Even during this time I've only got out twice once I went camping locally as a dry run for two days. Then managed to get out and just take a ride up the river. The only thing I found out is the entire river road is packed with people camping. Then came home again. Weather is just starting to warm pu here at home but yesterday just going to Lewiston it was very warm like 70's. Like doing work at home is difficult just to get materials from the local hardware store. Even auto parts are getting stupid. Common is ordering parts to get the wrong one over and over. Another is just trying to find some parts for a old fire truck the SRRFD sold. Just don't have that patience for running back and forth with wrong parts. Or get to big city and get hardware and stand in line to just get in the store. Really? Locally price have creeping up. But got to large cities and prices are way down. Heck getting gas for 1.699 in Clarkston Wa. Come home diesel is high at 2.759. So just food shopping we are force to travel to either Boise or Lewiston. Winco in Lewiston for $130 bucks we fill a cart full of food. Come home and don't take but a dozen item and you spent $100 in food. Spring is here and trees are all popping in blossoms.

Man that gotta suck lose your rolling home for job sites. Hopefully the insurance company will rapidly replace your RV for ya. I'm glad the wife and other are OK in the accident. She will have an awesome car to drive. Keep your spirits up it is a trying time but we will all come through this together. Oh @dripley if you come out to Idaho you may not park in my backyard. Most likely my massive maple tree will come and find you.

About 4 hours doing it right. Cleaning the entire HVAC case power washing the evaporator core. Recharging the A/C when done. While its out I normally look at the blower motor and the blower motor resistor too. New o-ring seal kit for the A/C lines. New foam seal in the case too. Lube the door pivots and inspect the blend door coupler. These are all thing you'll not be doing if you do the shortcut. Even one I've open had more crude in the evaporator than anything. Heater core typically stay clean. Yes the a dirt evaporator will impact performance in the summer and winter. Most will comment on how much more air will flow. Then not to mention the odors are gone too being the case is clean.

Same here... Did i twice. Once for the EGT gauge and once for Quadzilla probe. Cold and used grease for both the drill and tap.

Still in all the fuel and timing maps are going to be EPA regulated even for medium duty for that model year. Even less ability to run a tuner or anything that will customize those fuel and timing maps. Like the Dodge/Cummins ECMs at least you can buy a tuner (Quadzilla, Smarty, Edge, etc.) and make the timing and fuel maps better fit for what you have for parts.

Best way to get the engine clean. Go out warm it up completely in the evening come home and drop the drain plug and oil filter. Go to bed. Now in the morning install the new filter and the drain plug. Now fill with oil. It will be cleaner oil in the crankcase. The biggest thing it takes a lot of time to drain the oil cooler and passages out. The over night method doesn't require anything but time.

Don't do it... best to pull the box. Typically they are loaded leaves, grass, and mouse debris. Best to pull it all out and clean everything.

Your welcome... Hanging in gear could be output speed sensor on the tailshaft of the transmission. It can be excessive AC noise. Maybe the TV cable mis adjusted.

320 bar and clean. Roughly...

Auto Computer Specialist in Florida. Handle many of forum members including myself.

P0230 code just means either the lift pump is drawing too much amps or too little because its locked or open circuit.

Then there is timing and fuel maps. The stock ECM tuning is designed around stock 235 HP (245 HP HO) injectors and its duration. Now with larger injectors the duration is shorten and then depending on pop pressure it can be late, like myself I'm running 320 bar pop pressure so I'm tad late in timing. Then looking at the Quad stock timing drop out really quick and could be rather low with engine loads over 20%. Then there is a another factor is tuning to your current fuel. Up here it can be above 50 cetane most of the winter and need to retard timing a bit. Now summer fuel is hear I been increasing timing and gaining back MPG.

Remember when the fuel lines are purged they create a minimum of 4,500 PSI to fire the injectors. An open line should pulse strongly, not dribble or just drip. I normal crack 1, 3, 4 and the crank till it attempts to start close the lines and crank till it starts. You need charged batteries and good starter RPM's.