Mopar1973Man

Come up here every jacked up levelled Ford truck going north for hunting looks like it squatting. I hate these people get one behind you and the lo beam are blinding you to death. I usually let them pas and nail the HID's on hi and driving lights too. Don't be like these guys and level your truck and make it squat. This is why there is a rake to the suspension so when the truck is loaded it levels naturally. Like one sad hunter...

Can't wired separate. There is only one bulb filament. The hi / lo is control by a shutter. There is a ballast for each side but the shutter is controlled by one relay. The power is only supplied by one one fuse. The kit comes all loomed out. This is why I have the driving lights. Still a fallback lighting system as well. Which has NEVER happened. 394k miles and ticking never had a massive lighting failure to this day. Again the driving light are separated from the headlights and there is my redundancy in my lighting. I've not even had a ballast fail yet or a bulb to burn out. Very low current draw. only 35w per light. The driving lights are 18w per light but are ~1,000 lumens brighter than the HID's. PIAA LED are a 6k bulb at about 4,000 lumens. The Morimoto HIDs are 5k bulb and about 3,000 lumens. Standard halogen bulb is 700 and 1,200 lumen (45w / 60w). Oh... I'm no dummy... I've got a pack of fuses in the truck. Mini's and standard size. Now that is lighting. Lo beams, driving light plus the switchback bulbs.

Personally no. Still has to be changed at about the same intervals because of pH balance is gone and turning corrosive. Then like GM's version of OAT coolant has had several failures with coolant. This stuff is scary and the amount of damage it will do. https://www.consumeraffairs.com/news04/2006/08/gm_dexcool.html

Actually that is not it really... Just pulling the negative first removes the biggest plate to short against. Once the negative cables are removed the positive removal will be harmless. Then during hook up the positive cable is first being the ground plate is still dead. Thern your negative to complete the power up. Lots of little cars have very tight places where batteries are installed. While you unhooking the negative the wrench can touch body with no harm or arcing.

Yeah that is always a danger... But typically its wrench to body, engine, etc.

That is the reason for the order of disconnecting. This way with the negative cables first then ground plate is dead. The there is nothing to arc on the positive.

Standard method disconnecting... Negative cables Positive cables Standard method connecting power again... Positive cables Negative cables APPS reset Long Term Storage without pulling cables. Pull the IOD fuse in the cab fuse panel.

If the green field wire happens to find ground, it will charge yet but full runaway mode. This will cause the boiling out of the batteries. If the blue wire shorts to ground then the PCM will fry instantly burning the circuit board out.

@Dynamic he's you best bet for keyboard tech...

Welcome to the M73M family...

Then suggest doing the W-T ground wire modc after replacing the alternator.

Default tune rarely works for people. You need to just build your own tune. Post up your tune as a file and we can help you build a tune.

Not sure on that one... I'll have to pass that up.

Actually it will hyperextend the throwout bearing. I've just seen the document with Valair's setup that make sure not to over adjust because it will do damage. Mine engages at the top of the pedal throw which is fine. It was tech at SB (Peter? IIRC) that informed me of the hyper extending issues of the throwout bearing. Yeah back when AH64ID was saying my probe needed to stay submerged I added a full quart more over the standard 4 quarts to the bottom of the hole. It continued to slowly drool out the vent on the passenger side. Went back to 4 quarts dry as a bone. There was no gain in lubing or cooling with an added quart. I got tired of the mess the extra oil made. Hence why I moved the probe to the PTO plate and returned back to 4 quart load. Interesting... Mine was slow to throw on 5th gear now its getting faster. The launching chatter is slowly going away. Bit of throw bearing noise with the pedal pressed but nothing bad.

Violation... Your altering the fuel and timing of the emissions software. Just like all of use using tuners. This is why all tuners are stated for OFF ROAD use only for track and racing. So all of running a tuner are illegal, delete tuner same deal illegal. This is one feature of Quadzilla I love I can close out the Quadzilla and shut the screen off and none the wiser when law enforcement looks in your vehicle. No tuner hanging in the window (Edge Juice) or on the dash (Edge Comp). Depending on the the state this can be a violation too being the exhaust system is covered under the guidelines to and being its be altered. I'm in the same boat. No laws out here but remember if you travel to another town, county, state, etc. and a cop wants to give you grief they could. Even if you emit a small amount of smoke they could now pull you over to inspect your truck. Adams, Co. Idaho has no smog control. But now Canyon County and Ada County both do have smog control and testing. Just depends of the mood of law enforcement.

Upper end is high inaccurate. Normal running range up to 1,200 is good beyond forget it. Boost above about 35 PSI is skewed as well. Being I'm running both a ISSPro EV2 gauge and Quadzilla Pyro as well. The normal range is about +50*F high for the most part on EGTs. Now above 1,200*F very wild numbers. If I run up to 1,300*F to 1,400*F on the ISSPro gauge the Quadzilla reported in the logs I hit 1689*F as a max at the same time making 47 PSI of boost on the ISSPro EV2 boost gauge Quadzilla report a max of 67 PSI. I know that my little HX35/40 hybrid would never make that far not to mention the head gasket. Being I monitor engine oil temperature as well I know there is no way I made 1,689*F with of EGT's but 1,300 or 1,400*F is very doable. The only two I really don't monitor on the Quadzilla is EGT or Boost I use the ISSPro gauges for accuracy. Most of the time I run the Quadzilla headless without a display and rely mostly on the ISSPro Gauges.

3rd and 4th shift ring is right up next to the input shaft. You might want to verify the pilot bearing. Yeah I know this means you have to pull the transmission. Like I found out mine started with the pilot bearing falling out of the flywheel onto the input shaft. It was causing a notchy shift for fifth gear randomly. Might happen once in week or two then never happen again. Eventually the pilot bearing wore out the bearings for the input shaft causing more vibration. It forced me to replace the mainshaft because the bearing and the race on the mainshaft was damaged. As for my new Valair dual organic disc clutch shifts great, super soft hydros using STOCK hydros! The only problem I've got is launching in 2nd gear is a bit a chatter and hop at times, like a hot spot issue but I know better. 1st gear launches pretty good lightly felt. All gears shift butter smooth when rolling. Still running the Mobil 50 SAE trans fluid. Still got super cool transmission temperature numbers. Even with 90*F temps outside and 125 miles later maybe 150-160*F transmission temperatures at 65 MPH. Again pre-bled system always tend to need to be re-bled before installing. Then most over adjust the hydros and hyper-extend the throw-out bearing needlessly. As for the Valair I installed in the 2012 had upgraded hydro's and that is a PITA to adjust and set up. No GAINS at all using upgraded hydros. My dual Valair order WITHOUT upgraded hydros and was absolutely a snap and super soft pedal. Awesome setup. This is true the center plate will float when your foot ins on the clutch pedal and make racket. With your foot off the pedal it should not move or rattle. That center disc can move because the pressure plate is clamping down on the that center plate. Not to mention the center plate is machined to a tight fit and really can move much. Launching yeah its grabby but after full engagement it should be butter smooth. Pressure plate is fully clamped down. The only thing I can suggest is back off the adjustment fully on the hydsros and make the rod as short as possible. Don't it will cause the fluid to blow out the vent and make a huge mess. 4 quarts is more than enough been there done that. No gain in 5 quarts in NV4500. Being I cover roughly 1,000 miles a week I've already got over 2k miles on the clutch already.

Yes. Never removed the turbo. Drill both holes and tapped with everything assembled. Greased my drill bit and the tap. Then used a Q-tip to pick up any metal that might of fallen through. A Q-Tip will snag any metal chips just by touching.

Finished project. For the most part. Gotta do one small task for the owner and fix his OBDII port which is complete damaged. I do have the pin assignments for the plug once again.

So far in all this I've never seen a vehicle freeze up yet in our member group. I've seen plenty of pH corrosion damage over the years. Kind of like myself. I over extended a coolant change and paid the price. oil cooler gasket $70 radiator $280 head gasket $2000 These failure could of all be avoided by just flushing out the coolant earlier and resetting the pH balance again.

Not a bad looking ride. I'm curious about turbo charging a naturally aspirated gasoline engine. I'd love to see more on this.

Been in effect for many years. Deleting any truck is a federal crime. Has been for a long time. Locally I know that no dealer will accept a deleted truck for traded in now. For a dealer to sell a deleted truck is just as bad.

I've stacked both the ISSPro and the Quadzilla exhaust pyrometer probes on the rear runner.

Even to this day my radiator is still clean on the inside of the old one. Never had a scale problem and never used distilled water. Only well or creek water used for all those years and nearly 400k miles.

Now looking at your photo @Evan... Now my Morimoto D2S lens will cast light out 50 feet past the ditch on the driver side that is very dimly lit in your photo. As for my PIAA LEDs driving lights are light your for brightness at a fraction of the current draw. Just the PIAA cast a wider path of light just as bright. I would say that is a good upgrade just got to ask if the plastic lens is getting too hot? I'll admit my LED's snow over fairly easy where you would shed snow very well.