Mopar1973Man

Yeah Edge Juice does hook up to the OBDII port and could possibly foul the CCD network easy.

@JAG1 The only thing I can think of was data was lost during the server move. Remember we upgraded servers back in winter of 2019. As for the lost section there is nothing I can do. The website is so massive that I can only hold 1 copy of the website for one day. Then a new backup is created the next morning. Since its not just found there is nothing I can do to recover this data. The only thing I could hope for is @W-T to repost the missing data for us. I know he was part of the California fire (Paradise Valley) and he lost all his stuff in the fire. Either way I look at it its gone nothing either one can do unless @W-T would be gracious and replace that missing section. So the only thing I can do at this point is say "I'm sorry for the loss of data" and move on. I don't have a magic wand to roll back time, I don't have endless resources. Just sorry it happened.

Check the headlight fuses too. What happens is the fuse blows out for hat side then it leeches power from the functional side to light up dim. Double check the fuses in the PDC.

When I'm driving 1,000 miles a week its pretty easy to do. Now I've just transfer the 1,000 a week to my 1996 Dodge 1500. Just about got 2k on the the gasser just this month alone.

I just ran across another truck with a heater treated upgrade and the shaft continues to spin endlessly. The blend door has broken away from the shaft and the shaft just spins. I'm going to be forced to pull the entire HVAC case and replace the blend door. That was the first thing I check on this truck was the stepper motor and if the shaft was metal or plastic. Since the stepper motor still turns this means its a damaged blend door.

Ok my numbers are off from memory but I know it not something you can just beat the nut on with a hammer. Seen way too man of those redneck video of guys using a hammer a chisel. Your going to need a spline socket as well to hold the output shaft.

Most likely a poor quality APPS with electronics. Stock APPS has electronics to select the IVS (Idle Validation Switch) for which mode of operation. Now Timbo's on the other hand is a completely true mechanical APPS and has ZERO electronics. As you can see here is totally based on bell crank angle and not on voltage. Once it crosses the boundary from idle to throttle the logic toggles automatically. Not like the Stock APPS... As you can see the stock APPS has electronics to detect voltages and set the logic of the IVS switches. This in turn notifies the ECM of what mode of operation either THROTTLING or IDLING. If in idle mode then the ECM ignores the APPS sensor and uses its own internal idle software. Then with the voltage rises above the set limit then the IVS flip flops and then tells the ECM to watch the APPS sensor voltage.

Stems more from the pilot bearing falling out of the flywheel. The pilot bearing has been out of the flywheel for a long time. There was groove wore in the flywheel face. This changes how torque is applied to the counter shaft and the stress placed on the input shaft bearing. Then excessive gear play in the counter shaft. How long was the pilot bearing out I'm not sure but for there to be a groove in the flywheel tells me for quite some time. Temp wise even failed ran 160 to 170F. No change, no rise. Oil wasn't even dark, just full of glitter. Also it doesn't help that I was in the process of building a performance tune, added more power. No where like you with RV275 injectors. 150 HP VCO (7 x 0.010) and Quadzilla on kill mode. Then the only things replaced previously was bearings, syncros, mainshaft, and larger 5th gear (hard facing was bad in the bearing hub).

There is the W-T ground mod you need to do. I've got to ask which APPS did you get?

Dead pedal is typically either APPS or a VP44. Limited pedal is typically a ECM. Dead pedal is when it idles only with no throttle response. Limited pedal you can drive the truck but limited to low speed typically.

Like mine is right at 392k miles. Then transmission crapped out. Oh well. Back to the 96 Dodge in the meantime till I get the transmission fixed. Also gotta order a clutch. Both of our Cummins is still younger in the mileage realm.

All the years of owning a NV4500 I've to this day can say I've never lost a 5th gear nut. Even though my current transmission is out and 5th and reverse are damaged but not from a 5th gear nut problem. The current transmission does have the updated mainshaft. The biggest problem is the 5th gear nut has a huge torque number for tightening. Like 550 foot pounds on the stock shaft and like 660 foot pounds on a upgraded shaft. Don't quote me on the numbers. The torque value is very high. Something that REQUIRES a proper spline socket and a 5th gear socket to tighten properly. Please don't do the redneck fix with a hammer and chisel this will never tighten the nut enough to keep it from coming off.

I've got an economy tune that would fit nicely. I've been able to pull 21 MPG with 7 x 0.010 injectors but my pop pressure is a bit higher than normal at 320 bar. I'm currently working on a performance tune but I've managed to blow up my transmission. So it's release will be later.

Blow by that is enough to blow the oil cap up and dance is too much. Blow by that is strong enough to blow oil out is too much too. Be aware blow by testing is not a good test. It is very possible to pass a blow by test with the manometer and still have a cracked piston. I've seen this before. If blow by issues do become a issue its best to do a full compression test so your testing each cylinder for compression and cylinder leakage independently.

Best setup... Sensors mounted to the cab wall. All fuel stays on the engine side. Then just wiring into the cab. ISSPro EV2 series. USB programmable gauges. Here is the tap point on a stock truck The outlet line of the stock fuel filter at the bottom. The needle valve is just a safety shut off in case of failure. The snubber is the brass fitting just after the needle valve then there is 5 feet of tubing to allow pulses to fade into the distance to the sensor on the firewall. Those fitting are PTC (push to connect) fittings. You can reuse them over and over. Just push tubing into the fitting its self sealing and self locking. Push the blue collar down and release the tubing. Don't use grease gun hose it will not work!

This why I love the ISS Pro EV2 series gauges. Fuel stay on the engine side of the firewall. Then just wires heading into the cab. Like my last install for @mr.obvious his turned out awesome. No fuel in the cab and no ferrels to crimp on plastic tubing all PTC fittings and ZERO leaks.

Yup. That's what I'm figuring is counter shaft bearings. 5th and reverse both are screwed up.

Used a code reader? Key trick won't work if the Bus is goofy. Still in all pointing towards PCM issue.

Yeah I already got quote for dual disc Valair clutch which is do-able. I'm going to call both South Bend and Valair and talk to the tech for sure.

CCD Network BUS issues. Most likely the PCM side being it creates the network. The instrument cluster sets the Bus Bias Voltage. Use a code reader I'm going to assume at this point there is a P1698 code.

Yes you need about 200 amp breaker. You want some breathing room. The Grid heater will still push that to full load so the breaker has to be above the maximum amp rating of the alternator. The breaker is not for the charging amperage. It for the total shorted amperage which is typically above the alternator rating. That why I didn't buy a 140 amp breaker for mine and bought a 150 amp breaker.

South Bend Con OFE clutch this was my second one. The Mobil 50 SAE transmission fluid stops the gear roll over noise completely. Silent operation. After seeing the pilot bearing not in the flywheel I knew there would be other problems. I promise I'll get photos one way or another. I'll talk to Abe as well about that.

About 130k miles.

No problem. I was being slow on my shop floor. 3 hours to get what I done. I've got strap tricks.

South Bend Con OFE.