Mopar1973Man

Here...

Bingo.

Like @cajflynn taught me long ago when something fails the result is typically heat. Like yourself I've bought a IR temp gun and keep it in the pocket of the door. I can quickly check brake temperatures, transmission, axles, anything to verify what's going on and why there is temperature. As for @JAG1 he's another person that learn his lesson on running heavy without exhaust brake. Long down hill grade and 4 speed transmission (47RE) couldn't hold it back so net result was dragging the brakes which over heated the brakes, rotors, and the wheel bearings costing him dearly in parts and time. Yup. Exhaust brake is much better than 3rd gen brake upgrade which would of still overheated and caused the same damage. Exhaust brake has nothing to get hot and works great on long downhill grades with heavy loads. Ummm... Running the exact size on the door sticker. Stock tire size.

Give me a call today on my cell number. Contact Us at the bottom of the page.

Maybe its only on the early series of trucks I've for sure seen it on my 1996.

Popping too low in pop pressure? Possible maybe. Yup. That is very possible too. Yea but the OP should of heard it if it leaking. kind of like my boost leak test you can hear the rushing air or ticking noise. Still not sure how you could test for that other than pull the turbo and check the wastegate. Bind it closed and retest maybe? Another guess.. Valve issues? Compression leaking? Blow By?

That's what I'm trying to figure out too. Being I've gone as far as creating a boost leak and documenting all my values. He's got some serious drag issues. What is weird OP and myself are twins for set up but he's creating huge amount EGT's and high engine loads. It most likely not boost related unless there is that much drag like brakes dragging or something. Like I found out from my test boost leak at cruise state has little to do with EGTs. All I can think off is mechanical drag. For me to reach his engine load level I've got to be climbing a 6% grade even then I can't make the 1,100°F EGT's. The only way I could come close would be towing my 8,000 pound Jayco RV up a 6% grade then I'd have it pegged at 1,100°F. That what I struggle to see where is the drag coming from. But I'm pretty sure its not a boost leak issue. I'm at a loss. Edit: Guessin' now... Plugged air filter?

That should help holding the vacuum in the reservoir in the cowl area.

Thanks. I really would love to have better mirrors for towing. (bookmarked for later)

Something like this...

Could you post a link please? I would love to to see the $143 dollar version.

That's what I got is power and heated. I'd love to upgrade to 3rd Gen towing mirrors but always find them for $300 or better.

No. I can adjust the brightness that's all. The warning light can be programmed, the optional relay could be programmed to turn on or off a device. Then there is an advanced setting where you can set the speed of the needle movement.

Not sure. But if his wastegate was leaking he would not be able to spool very well if the drive pressure isn't on the turbine but bypassing the turbine. As the OP stated he's making 30 PSI of boost. But the whole problem is at a cruising state 1,100°F at cruise state with 32% engine load. Again boost should be low. Even with my test 5-7 PSI climbing a grade with manifold bolt missing and wastegate hose disconnected. 650°F EGT's with 22% Engine load I'm still short the 10% like him because of gearing differences. Ok, bruh.....275 70r 18....forgot I traded rims...4”lift....with a headwind of 15 my egt’s were 1050 to 1150 @78mph....engine load was 28% to 35%..... Again the big key here is his engine load is much higher. Dumping way more fuel and EGT's are up. Under normal conditions. 6% grade (Midvale Grade), ~10 PSI of boost. Now I've got the engine load high enough to meet OP. Which his truck on flat grounds is equal to mine climbing a 6% grade at 65 MPH. Still my EGT's a lower. NOTE: -50°F on EGT's and +1 to MPH.

Some of the stuff I've seen people haul is crazy. But the mighty Cummins still haul the load.

Thanks for reporting back on the fix. I would consider replacing the one-way check valve on the system it should hold up better then.

@Royal Squire very impressive tow there!

Just to see if I can come close or reproduce his issues. So what I did was created a fairly massive boost leak by pulling my wastegate hose and then pulled a bolt out of the manifold. This you can audibly hear blowing air still building 35 to 40 PSI of boost. Very little difference in smoke. EGT's really didn't change at all. Just drove over 50 miles plus climbing the grade from Riggins, ID to home. The results... Even with climbing a grade from Riggins, ID to home with the cruise set at 70 MPH (don't want a speeding ticket). I can say without a doubt his problem is more gearing than boost being even with a massive boost leak. EGT's are still controlled and nearly unchanged at a cruise state. You can audibly hear the boost air rushing from the two holes. No issues with EGT's. NOTE: -50*F for EGT's and +1 for Speed to be correct.

Enough for the shipping it back would be nice. Remember if I set the fuel pressure for 10 PSI it will trip the light at 9 PSI. So if you want the light at 10 PSI I've got to set for 11 PSI.

I would love to jump for the 3rd gen fold out mirror just don't want to give up the power options I've got now. Quite pricey yet.

I'm curious. I'm also curious how quick the pads eat the rotors which ceramics pads tend to be harder than the rotors from the information I've gotten from others.

CCD Network the PCM is Master, ECM is secondary. CANBus the ECM only. No PCM data.

Sure, I've got the programming cable. https://mopar1973man.com/contact/ Send to that address and I can program it. Just remember to send a note with contact information and return address. If you have other gauges I can program them as well like EGT's.

Stacking tuners is a bad news period. You just turn the throttle into a light switch going from 0 to 100% in mere 1/3 throttle. Be better off upgrading to a full Edge Juice or Quadzilla. Both will give you a wider range of fuel control but Quadzilla is more controllable. The problem with stacking is there is only 0 to 4095 in CANBus signal stacking like I said just makes it reach 4095 quicker but will never exceed 4095. If you wanting more fuel or power you are going to have to consider wiretap this will extend the fuel even more. Either way, both Edge EZ and Smarty have to play by the ECM rules period and can't exceed that. Wiretap is where you break than limitation.

Like my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 would be good one for the CAD lever mod. If you got the older series axles you can convert to manual pull cable for the axle. Like my 2002 is a solid axle so this is not possible. The vacuum CAD is a rather pain in the butt. Like 1996 Truck has always had issues with locking and unlocking the axle and also staying locked. Pull knob is a good solution for those issues.