Mopar1973Man

Good question. I would give your local tire shop a call. I would consider a metal stem if possible that bolts to the wheel. That would be better bet for sealing and prevent leakage. As for standard pull thru stems, I'm not sure what the size of the rim hole has to be.

FedEx mail came today... 5 x 0.011 +30 HP 1st Gen injectors... Then the new replacement 4th gen injector. The funny part is that single 4th Gen injector cost as much as the entire 6 injectors for the 1st Gen. Just about finish the 2nd Gen with its repairs. Talked to the owner and doing more work. Thank you! @dieselautopower For handling the injector testing on the 4th Gen injectors and sending me the new set of 1st Gen injectors.

Head gasket is done... What's another fist full of money eh?

Done. Covered. You are up and listed.

If you do... Look at the PacBrake PRXB. That is the best exhaust you can most likely get your hands on. The standard PacBrake isn't bad but the PRXB has a second butterfly that hold back better down low RPM's giving better braking.

That is why the Downloads are member thing. That way they are not displayed to Google or the public but the membership pool here can glean the information needed to repair their trucks. I see it as an educational purpose.

Doubtful. When you can catch my pad life (200k plus) really doubt bigger is always better. I would suggest Exhaust Brake over 3rd Gen brakes any day.

Just a month ago I pulled the caliper. I'm running the cheapest pads I could my hands on. I'm well over 200k miles on this set and still going. I've just replaced my rear rotors not too long ago not because of the rotor was bad but the top hat part for the parking brake. Grooved too bad for the parking shoes to grab the drum. Rotors where still in excellent condition.

Driver side of the block just below the stock fuel filter housing. 2 bolts, one Allen screw holding the plug in. I would highly suggest to send the ECM to Auto Computer Specialist and they will test and tell you what is wrong with the ECM. Then repair what is needed. Double check the OBDII plug you could have a pin pushed out. I've had this happen with a Smarty Tuner.

Here you go.. Talk to @Dynamic he can tell you how to get lock up for 1st and 2nd gears.

Bad news. Your ECM is not booting up at all. The VP44 might be fine but the ECM is brain dead. Double check for a P0381 error code. This is for the WTS light if the bulb or circuit failure. Yep. That be the one. That has the CCD network going back towards the cab.

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Sad to say this is really old technology really. The A727 Torqueflite transmissions came out in 1962. Then it was upgraded to 4 speed in the mid 1990's which was an A618 or the 47RE. Basically, the same transmission from back then just changed out some parts add the 4th gear.

That adds a bunch of strain on the tie rods that's for sure. 285's and up just gets worse. Common problem out here too the ranchers love using 285's and larger for floatation on mud but sure kills the front suspension and steering parts quickly. Only solution is either to beef up everything and rebuild the geometry correctly for the new tires. Or come back down to smaller width tire to reduce the strain on the tie rods. With larger tires, you should never attempt to turn the steering wheel without rolling. Being the face of the tire resist pivoting more so this action just forces the steering box to push a wide face tire to pivot where it's sitting. The mere fact there is over 4,400 pound of weight on the front axle and wider the tire more resistance to pivot. Being I drive a lot of back country road and have to turn around a lot. Narrower tires pivot easier on the steering parts with less straining.

Now I've got to ask what size tire are you running? This is the point at which either make or break the front ends.

Gotta look back at people like myself and ask how do I do it? Still running all the stock parts. Tie rods lasted 350k miles before giving up. Ball joints are last over 200k now. Steering box over 300k miles. Brakes are over 200k miles. No steering box brace either.

That is a huge problem if alignment shop can't get it straight. I really have a hard time thinking you are going to get much farther. Being all the parts between the steering box and the wheels are on ball joints there is always going to be some rocking. Not to mention there was a recall for the T steering parts I know NAPA was one of the recall names.

Sound like there is a shorted out TQ Conv lock up solenoid. You have for sure electrical issues. Some how there is a back feed of power getting back to the dash. I would have to say the power supplying the TQ Conv lock up. Then the solenoid is fired being it is arcing. All circuits need to be checked for proper fuses. That TQ Conv solenoid needs to be replaced.

Glad I stayed with the Y steering less headache and still going tight. Did you take it to the alignment shop to be aligned?

40 warm up cycles to clear an error code. You have to go from below 140 coolant temperature to above 165 coolant temperature 40 times to count as one warm up cycle without tripping the very same code over again. Typically about a months time of daily driving to clear an code. So how long has the Smarty been gone?

I can't remember what dynamic said about the Torque converter lock up. I know it is controlled by the PCM and just grounding a wire for lock and unlocking of the TQ Conv. I'm not sure how the PCM makes the choice of locking or unlocking though. Speed sensor on the tail shaft? APPS signal? Engine RPM? That why I suggested talking to him he would point you where you need to be.

PCM and CCD Network issue. PCM creates the CCD Network bus and the instrument cluster will bias the voltage for the Bus. My first place to look the bolted connector in the PDC.

Double checking you don't have Smarty Tuner running right? Normal to see that code if you have a Smarty Tuner. Not normal to see the error code as a stock truck.

The numbers look good and acceptable. I would say the electrical system is good but you might talk to @Dynamic ask him about the lockup issue he might shed some light on it too.

Yea... I was that way till I upgraded the firmware to 2.8.4. Worked good and was very close.