Mopar1973Man

You didn't do the P0237 testing, did you? This is not a Quadzilla fault but a wiring fault. Possible Causes Other DTCs Boost Pressure Sensor 5-volt Supply Circuit MAP Signal Circuit Short To Ground MAP Signal Circuit Short To Sensor Ground MAP Sensor Intermittent Wiring Problem ECM 1. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DRBIII(R) scan tool, check for engine DTCs. If any 5-volt supply circuit DTC(s) exist, perform appropriate test. See DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE DEFINITIONS . If no 5-volt supply circuit DTC(s) exist, go to next step. 2. Start engine and allow engine to idle. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If MAP sensor voltage is .2 volt or greater, go to next step. If MAPsensor voltage is less than .2 volt, go to step 4 . 3. Shut engine off. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If MAP sensor voltage is less than 2.35 volts, go to next step. If MAP sensor voltage is 2.35 volts or greater, go to step 9 . 4. Turn ignition off. Perform turbocharger boost pressure test. See TURBOCHARGER under AIR INDUCTION SYSTEMS in SYSTEM & COMPONENT TESTING - RAM PICKUP - DIESEL article. If boost pressure test passes, go to next step. If boost pressure test does not pass, repair as necessary. 5. Ensure ignition is off. Disconnect MAP sensor harness connector. MAP sensor is located on driver's side rear corner of cylinder head. Turn ignition on with engine off. Using DVOM, measure voltage at terminal No. 1 (Orange wire) on MAP sensor harness connector. If voltage is 4.7-5.3 volts, go to next step. If voltage is not 4.7-5.3 volts, repair Orange wire between ECM and MAP sensor. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. 6. Turn ignition off. Ensure MAP sensor harness connector is still disconnected. Disconnect ECM harness connector. ECM is located on driver's side of engine, just in front of fuel transfer pump and contains a 50-pin connector. Using DVOM, measure resistance between ground and terminal No. 2 (Gray/Red wire) on MAP sensor harness connector. If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short to ground in Gray/Red wire between MAP sensor and ECM. 7. Using DVOM, measure resistance between terminal No. 3 (Black/Light Blue wire) and terminal No. 2 (Gray/Red wire) on MAP sensor harness connector. If resistance is 1000 ohms or greater, go to next step. If resistance is less than 1000 ohms, repair short between Black/Light Blue wire and Gray/Red wire. 8. Turn ignition off. Reconnect ECM harness connector. Using scan tool, read MAP sensor voltage. If MAP sensor voltage is greater than 4.5 volts, replace and program the ECM. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. If MAP sensor voltage is 4.5 volts or less, replace MAP sensor. See appropriate REMOVAL, OVERHAUL & INSTALLATION article. 9. Turn ignition off. Visually inspect related wiring harness. and connectors between MAP sensor and ECM. Look for any chafed, pierced, pinched or partially broken wires. Visually inspect MAP sensor harness connector and ECM harness connector for broken, bent, pushed out or corroded terminals. Check for any Technical Service Bulletins (TSB) that may apply. Perform a wiggle test on the related wiring harnesses with the ignition on, engine not running. Repair as necessary. If no problem is found, test is complete.

Between the new alternator for $130 bucks in a NAPA parking lot. Then the tow home another $150 bucks. Then the $700 for the PCM replacement. Then the shipping cost to get to and from ACS and back to me. Little over a $1,000 for sure. Then the mods to protect the PCM and the circuit breaker. That project was very expensive.

Not that I would be worried about dirt but how about water and the hole rusting shut? Diesel fuel can have water in the fuel. I'm thinking of more people on the southern state in general here. Where like myself I would also do possibly a small hole damper too.

Sorry for the lag... Mine was 700 plus shipping. Mine was a full replacement.

First of Quadzilla tuner cannot be free revved. It doesn't have the timing tables for free revving.

I'm glad it worked out for you. It's always best to make sure the firmware of the Quadzilla is up to date. I know that Spencer @Quadzilla Power comes over with updates and put them in the Download section. Then the tunes are up for grabs in the download section as well.

Run the corrected I've provided.

Here is all the codes...

Are you sure it's a true data cable? some are just charging cable missing the data connection. I've got a few cables like that and it refuses to connect or do anything for the Quadzilla because of its only a charging cable. If you are on Linux I would say to fire up a terminal and the type in. michael@michael:~$ lsusb Bus 002 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 004 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 001 Device 004: ID 058f:6364 Alcor Micro Corp. AU6477 Card Reader Controller Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 003 Device 003: ID 045e:00cb Microsoft Corp. Basic Optical Mouse v2.0 Bus 003 Device 002: ID 045e:0752 Microsoft Corp. Wired Keyboard 400 Bus 003 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0001 Linux Foundation 1.1 root hub Bus 008 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub Bus 007 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub Bus 006 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0003 Linux Foundation 3.0 root hub Bus 005 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub michael@michael:~$ As you can see I can check all my USB ports for connection. But for Windows, I couldn't help you. I've not touched a windows PC in over 8 years now. The last version of Windows I worked with barely is Windows 7.

Good advise... I wouldn't exactly buy a cheapie MAP sensor nor would I hunt for a name brand sensor either. It could be a ground wire issue like what @dripley is fighting lately. The sensor ground is all crushed together in the loom. Like @Me78569 said do your testing and diagnostic work. Get your error codes and review the OBDII error code list in the article section it has all the steps for testing.

Just because Cummins is on the box doesn't mean Cummins manufactured the part. A lot of parts are made by different companies and relabeled as what ever brand. Kind of like some of Mopar oil filters are just Fram filters. As seen here... Just like everyone thinks buying a Cummins Thermostat is going to be best. There are only 3 or 4 manufacturers of thermostats and Cummins doesn't manufacture any thermostats at all. Food for thought...

No. Only 2002 will work for the key method. 2001 only shows the PCM. Doesn't mean that it's still good.

P0234, P0236, P0237 and P0238...

Is it possibly the wrong jumper in the Quadzilla? @Me78569

Upload your tune to this thread. I'll look at your settings. It would be nice if you capture a data log for @Me78569 to review also. Are any error codes present? All wiring hooked up properly to the MAP sensor and Quadzilla? No damaged pins or wiring? Turbo in good condition? Wastegate not stuck open? Boost leaks? I know it's not cheap. When I figured out the tire to gear problem I got a local gent here in McCall, ID with 37-inch tires (3.00:1) and the same problem lacking power. It cost him a bit over $4,000 to have 3.55 gears removed and 4.10 gear installed. Massive power increase and MPG jumped back up to the high teens to low 20's.

Gear ratio is all wrong you need 4.10 gears in the axles to make this work right. Like I'm running 245/75 R16 tires with 3.55 gears. As you can see the ratio is much better and produces way more power! Optimal is 3.55 to 3.73 for highway use...

This is the number one cause of the pressure sensor failures for Quadzilla, Edge juice, and electric fuel pressure gauge. That is why I created this article long ago.

Yeah. the pulses ate the sensor. You need distance from the snubber to the sensor. Like having a loud speaker on one side of a wall and your head against the wall. The loud music will still damage your ear drum. Now move away from the wall a good distance now your hearing isn't damaged. Same thing here you need distance from the snubber (wall) to your ear (sensor). Wiretap good condition showing +12V with the key on engine off? What size tires and gear ratio do you have?

Not good. Your sensor is fried from the pulses from the VP44. No needle valve No snubber No distance from the tap point. Correct way. There is over 5 feet of 1/8 tubing from the tap point to the sensor. Needle valve for emergency shut off. Snubber installed just after the needle valve to dampen pulses. 5 feet of tubing to allow the remaining pulses to fade out over travel of the distance.

7 x 0.010 injectors. You could try my tune but its pretty light in the fuel for the most part. I'm running close to you. HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) 7 x 0.010 injectors @ 320 Bar 4" inch exhaust BHAF

Glad it worked out for you.

You might want to dive into the tune database... https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/ I need to know what size tires you have and what gear ratio in the axles... Post a picture for your fuel pressure sensor. I want to see where its at and how it's set up.

Even my truck does too. It will toss a P0230 code if there isn't proper resistance on the lift pump circuit. I understand for guy like you in the California area you need to be error code clean!