Mopar1973Man

Same here since MoparMom's kidney failure. I don't have any extras. All the bills I've got are either Medical or Business. Like my contribution was shut down the guest house 3 years ago. Then managed to get the parts for the Pelton wheel and get it running. This has reduced the power bill from nearly 280 to 300 a month to just 89 dollars for both main house and guest house. No water bill we pump our own water. Phone and Internet are provided by M73M.com as a business expense. Cellphone provided as a buisness expense. No trash bill we haul our trash to the dump. No sewer bill septic tank in the yard. I don't go out and hang out with friends anymore. I don't leave the house unless its requirement of life. I've been living on $8,000 a year income for over 4 years now. It doesn't get any more humble than that...Now I've got another surgery and at least $3,000 worth of bills just getting in the door. Then I've got over $8,000 already on the first surgery and waiting for the second one to bill up. Then I've got the 3rd Surgery. I've got nothing left I can cut.

I'm working as fast as I can to raise the money I need to go to my next surgery. Remember I don't have insurance. I need to pay off my outside bills that my financial planner is handling with the hospital. So my anesthetic, X-rays, and pathology are not covered. So I've got to have the money beforehand to pay these bills because they come in mere days afterward. I don't have TV per se. I do have a 50" Vizio but only watch once in awhile a Hulu movie or something. Normally too busy in the day doing other things to waste time in front of the idiot box.

It's possible for a big injector(s) to wash out the rings because of an injector(s) stuck open. I've seen 2005 Dodge that wiped out 5 and 6 cylinders and ate the rings. I've got a 2012 Ram now that has just one injector that was high return flow rate and rail pressure was always weak. No cylinder damage that I can detect. Runs good. After sending the injectors to be tested at DAP the bad one shows up. A bad injector can casue cylinder damage.

I'm just wondering if it just ran out of fuel first. Being that typically failed VP44 usually have error codes. It rare to have a VP44 drop dead without codes but not impossible either.

More direction for free time to work here. Like right now I'm getting ready to make my 250 mile drive. Exactly. That is my biggest goal right now. I'm working in pain daily till I can have my 3rd surgery to have the stent removed. Every night my lower back is hurting and I know what it is. Like you might of notice nothing mention about bicycle rides. That because I'm physically incapable of doing any more. Too painful to ride the distance like I used to. Like just sitting here my lower back is starting to ache. I've got 6 hours minimum stuck in a truck today too. (yah...) I managed to take free time and do some talking locally for a few jobs hence how I invested my free time producing work. Most local people were respectful and not bombing me with work knowing my condition. I've got all the work I want right now. The biggest part is my body going to allow me to get this all done?

You could do the other idea... Convert to an automatic transmission then you get to keep your truck.

I always thought the Bluetooth head should be in the cab. All that metal cab shielding out the radio signal. @Quadzilla Power let me know when you fix the ECM / Quad handoff. I'm ready to fix the bucking problem.

I agree if you going to do injectors put in either stock or RV275's at the most. Cheapest bet and for sure. Now as for just selling you could knock 300 off the price if they whine about smoke issues.

My free time just got shorter and much less. 2012 Ram 6.7L needs an injector replaced and the 0ther 5 installed again. Waiting on a box from DAP. Then I've got a 2nd Gen that needs an oil change, fluids checked, exhaust brake looked at (sticking), and valve lash adjusted. Then in between all this, I've got a 1992 Dodge Ram 5.9L to do a fresh set of injectors (5 x 0.011) +30 HP. Waiting for a box from DAP. Free time just disappeared...

While cranking? What is the fuel pressure?

What is your fuel pressure during the morning start? Does it drop out and rise? That is an air bubble. Tank vent is possible being as the fuel cools it will create a natural vacuum if the tank vent is plugged up.

Typically causes are starter contacts and the brushes are worn out in the starter. Being the starter contacts bridge when the solenoid pulls it closed and supplies the power to the starter motor. A common issue and cheap to fix. The brushes do eventually wear down and typically one brush will be too short to make contact and the starter now rolls at 1/2 power and speed.

Computer wise you only need 8 Volts minimum to start and run. Learned this driving around with my blown up PCM and burned up alternator. This is where all the mods come to play.

The funny part is out here gunshots are fairly normal and no one ever even worries about it. It is normal for the 2 leggers to shoot 4 leggers. Idaho vs Texas lifestyles.

Gotta ask a dumb question. Did you run out of fuel? I've seen fuel gauges lie and just run out of fuel. Drop about 10 gallons of fuel in and try repriming the injection pump. Double check the error codes. Some of the VP44 codes don't always pop CEL. Could be another subsystem that failed making it look like a failed VP44. What is your fuel pressure like?

No. Yes. I've learned that your timing table really doesn't change a lot from tune to tune. If it's already efficient just clone by export and import as a new name. Now the only thing I had to change was load base timing adding more retard so to build boost in low throttle conditions. Quadzilla and stock injectors will be right close to that. (Flywheel power) Already got that with the towing tune I've whipped up. EGT's are much lower with the amount of timing I'm running but there is more to it. The fact I'm running (7 x 0.010) @ 320 bar injectors that means my injection event is late, then more fuel needs more timing on the top end. Producing enough power that I've got to scale back the fuel on the CANBus being it can tear the tires loose with RV in tow. EGT's are very controllable too. Only, trouble is you would have to build your own timing table fitting what you got. EGT's can be controlled by altering the fuel table you can set the EGT backdown limit for 1250 to 1300F and then make a hard pull loaded and see what it measures for backdown. The you can figure out the point of boost you need from that point make the fuel table minus the back down amount.

You could do a poor man blow by. Start the engine. Then unscrew the oil cap. place it in the hole. Does it just sit there? Actual blowby test is hooking out manometer and measuring the amount of water column. Best way to go is get your hands on a compression tester and all the cylinders when the injectors are removed. (425 to 450 PSI typically tight engine) Be aware blowby test will not catch a broken piston. An old member here fought a misfire problem for a long time and spent a huge amount of money. Never done a compression test. Did tons of blowby test which always pass the test but he had a cracked piston that leaked more when the engine got hot. But never failed the blowby test. As long as this isn't happening I won't worry much...

Last trip was 13 MPG from Parma, ID back to home in New Meadows, ID. Quadzilla running my "Economy Tune" which needed a bit of tweak to work correctly. Which now I have I need to know about building a good towing tune.

Typically either the small wires to the grid heater solenoids or the solenoid has failed. might help with cold start issues if the compression is low. Remember air molecules are much smaller than a diesel molecule which is why you have to patient for it to show. Air can leak in easier then diesel can be pushed out.

About 160,000 kms (100,000 miles) those injectors are done. Just because it starts and runs good doesn't mean the injectors are good. Like I found I kept my stock injectors thinking they were good for spares if needed. Come to find out sent them int to be pop tested and sure enough, they all test very low in pop pressure about 260 bar stock should be 310 bar. Now that the injectors are out you can visually look at the crossover tube socket on the injector for damage. Then look at both ends of the crossover tube. Now the tip of the high-pressure lines. Like here in Idaho DOT use a ton of salt I've already had to replace a set of injector lines. Weeping enough to drip diesel fuel also enough that a light hard start was happening in the morning. @dripley just had the o-rings on the injectors leaking where it was pumping diesel fuel into the head area. (Fuel in the oil). Banjo bolt at the back of the head has two sealing washers. PITA to change but keeps it starting. The return tee is a square cut o-rings and kind of spendy. Some just replace with normal compression tee or barbed tee with hose joints. Personally, I would keep the factory tee and o-rings. Suction side leaks are common. The trick is pressurizing the fuel system at the fuel tank after the system has been fully primed up. Electric shop vacuum on blow should have enough pressure to push fuel out a leaking connection or joint. Be patient and have a second guy looking for wetness. If you need to use baby powder to check joints. IAT only turns on the grid heater for intake heat. Timing doesn't come into play till the engine started and running. Once running then the IAT controls the timing and below +80°F (26°C) then the timing jumps an extra +4° advancement. Has no bearing at startup.

Don't bother to replace IAT. Just hook up a live data tool like an OBDLink LX or similar. Then check the IAT temperature in the morning with the ECT temperature they should be the same. Sensors are fine then. 99% of the time IAT sensor is fine and doesn't need to be clean or even messed with. Check the suction side of the pump. Suction side leaks never drip. Then continue to draw air in through the leak and drain the prime back off. This can happen between the lift pump and the tank for fitting or connections. Return lines. The return at the back of the could be weeping or at the tee on the return line. Look at the crossover tubes mating faces and the lines. If the faces are damaged or pitting its possibly to weep air in when shutdown. How many miles on the injectors?

Doing a bit of writing of the fuel map. Then created a performance tune based on my timing map of the economy tune. I figured I'd try it out. Needless to say, when the black smoke cleared up, the tires started to smoke, dump the throttle a bit fast and got a good turbo bark. That the bonus of Quadzilla you can see all the setting and have full control of 180 HP all the way up the power band. If you want to limit fuel you can even just cut fuel at a particular PSI of boost and it fades out. You can just start the fuel table for 100% and all you get is the stock fuel map from the ECM. Total control when Smarty S-03 is a guessing game. I'll admit back in the day Smarty S-03 was a good tuner for a stock truck that the owner didn't want to tap the wire nor get too wild.

The worse I've dealt with is I lost an intake plate bolt and popped out, hit the hood, and fell right back on the manifold laid there. I barely had maybe 5 PSI fo boost and limped home with the missing bolt. Sounded like a fair sized rock hit the hood. "TANG!"

I've heard of it but never blown one yet. All I can say is I figured you needed another clean pair of shorts right?

Yes but you'll still suffer without a full tuner. The ECM will be retarded in timing. Cummins wrote the timing table pretty retarded to keep cylinder pressures down but MPG are rather low. Just being able to add some timing will boost the MPG's. I tip the scale at 17,000 pouns and 52 foot long with my RV and still do 13 o 14 MPG.