Mopar1973Man

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Always best to start small. You still have the HX35 turbo. You'll need to upgrade turbos to get up in bigger injectors. Like myself I'm at the end for this turbo its maxed out. 7 x 0.010 (+150 HP) @ 320 bar HX35/40 (60/60/12) Quadzilla Adrenaline ARP Studs 4 inch exhaust @Marcus2000monster You've got a few things going against you. Stock HX35W (54/60/12) 53 Block No tuner Stock head bolts The farthest I would go without a tuner would be RV275 or +50HP. This will stay fairly clean but MPG won't jump much being there is no timing. The 53 blocks are on the weak side and people have cracked them as well as some members here have run them a long ways. You are in the unknown spot being the mileage is low yet. +90 HP with 315 bar is a fairly safe bet.

I've got to cut fuel back to 75% to keep the launch smoke gone. Now my max CANBus is only 120% instead of the 150%.

Don't install the injectors till you get a Quadzilla.

LOL. I thought at first the pump wasn't working. So damn silent I couldn't tell.

Thanks @Dieselfuture ... I've rebuilt my fuel map so I'm starting at 75% and going only up to 120% max fuel. This will allow for a bit more out the wiretap without getting stupid or smokey. Now I'm going out for a test run and see what I get from it.

Headlight switch, and multi-function switch. All on the ground side of the headlights. Then the wiring is bit on the thin side so I'm going to bet your voltage drop would be worse drawing heavier loads on that thin wiring.

I made a run to town to just play, test drive and get my daily bicycle ride. I need to sit down and rebuild my fuel map. I'm going to cut my CANBus fuel back quite a bit and be able to get the wiretap in without the excessive smoke. I brought my timing back down to 14, 18, 22, 26. Runs like an animal. I've done a few low speed WOT runs. This thing is sick and crazy. Boost jumps to 45 PSI and the torque overwhelms the rear tires. Light bit an of pedaling and you can gain the traction back. I've got to focus on EGT control and fuel map. Now the beast has a purring lope now. I think its rather cool. Just as your slowing down with the clutch in she'll just purr and lope very mildly. Come to stop it idling smooth as glass. I know for sure the 7 x 0.0085 VCO are well below 280 bar for sure. These at 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar are awesome! Neat trick learned today. If you're doing injector install and you don't want to lose prime. Take a small pair of needle nose vise grips and carefully clamp the supply fuel hose off. This will prevent the fuel from running back to the tank. I did my install. Then hopped in the truck and bumped the starter and then release the vise grips. No injector lines loosen. Now just cranked it was only about 5 seconds and it started. Now with the AirDog 165 4G pump. WOT run I can draw the fuel pressure fair 3-5 PSI drop now. Yeah, I'm flowing fuel and it shows on the fuel pressure gauge. Still holding above 14 PSI at all times. Idling at 19 PSI. As for the bicycle ride. It was windy and cold. I want to play so I managed to get 2.5 mile ride in. I'll make up tomorrow in Ontario, OR with a longer ride. I'll most likely do a long 10 to 12 miles ride again. Gotta tag @dieselautopower he'll want to see this... Tune as of right now... performance tune.xlsx

Most likely will happen. 100w bulbs pull about 14.2 amps. You would be best setting up relay kits to keep the wattage off the stock wiring. The other thing to watch for is the amount of heat the bulbs give off and will it melt the headlight housings. I know there is a few that upgraded to larger blubs without many issues.

I finally got the 7 x 0.0085 @ 305 bar removed and the 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar installed. What I noticed right off the bat is the idle is MUCH smoother. Without changing any of my tune on the Quadzilla I had it on level 0 for extended warm up. Then I flip back to my max power level of 7. Once it warmed up it was a bit smokey. Quickly changed up my timing and a few timing setting and cleared a bunch of that up. Enough power it to break the tires loose in 3rd or 4th gear. I've got to play with the tune a bit to clean stuff up for sure. +150 HP VCO 7 x 0.010 @ 320 bar are a excellent choice for Quadzilla Adrenaline.

I finally got my pump yesterday. Old version left 4G on the right. Got it installed I'll report more after the 7 x 0.010 injectors get installed.

Gamble. Try changing or trading the wiper relay out with something like the horn. Try again.

Good guess... I gave it a honest try. But the wiring is still the same for the trailer stuff.

I was assuming that @Bacon Creek Metal possibly had the PDC box under the hood. If so then from that point he could hook to the PDC for everything and run back to the bump or trailer socket. Yeah I knew it was a Fummins but not knowing how much there is under the hood it still would give clues.

Here is what I've got for wire map as well. Wiper motor failure. The park reed is most likely damaged. Most likely when you try turning them on and then switch then off but the motor couldn't reach park again. The motor was in a locked state and most likely burned the park reed.

In the PDC there should be a 40 Amp fuse separating the truck from the trailer. Fuse #8 - 40 Amp As you will see the power lead for the brakes come from there, and power for the brake controller. Same 40 Amp fuse supplies the the tail light of the trailer past the trailer relay. Your trailer brake there is a blue plug under the dash this is the trailer brake plug. You can still get the pigtail from Dodge Dealer for this so it easy peezee to hook up the trailer brake.

Central Timer Module. It above your throttle foot in the dash. Near the power point plug. CTM takes can some cab functions like delay wipers, security alarm, etc.

Other tidbits... Bosch requires fuel lubricity to be 460 HFRR or less. Since ULSD was released the lubricity went up to roughly 520 HFRR. The only fuel that meets the requirement is BioDiesel. BioDiesel comes at increased price over Petri diesel. Then typically has a warmer pour point and telling issues. Then BTU content is much lower compared to petro diesel.

For what ever reason I had replaced all the factory seal ujoint before 30k all had failed. Have very little trust in seal u joints.

If the wiper are coming on the fuse is good. There is a relay in CTM that comtrols delay. I'm not sure if you can fix the CTM. Might be a fuse for the CTM.

Absolutely. I'm going to challenge this and beat this down. I'm not going to give up. Managing my time is tough.

Tidbits... Max timing is 32° BTDC. Optimal fuel pressure 14 to 20 PSI Filtration should be 3 micron. Double stacking filters is a good thing. Most error codes are electrical failures. P0216 code is typically mechanical failure and not capable of meeting commanded timing.

Like today made my appointment for my kidney check up on Friday. Then even with screwing up this morning and getting up late I still put in 9 miles riding in Payette and Ontario. Feeling good yet and still gaining my stamina. Getting easier and easier to climb grades.

Some thing to try is pull the fuse for the ABS. This should trip the light and disable the ABS system. Worth a try. If it still locking then it's a hardware issue. Not an ABS issue.

Like myself my truck stay in a unheated shop above freezing typically. Now once on the roll it cold start when I roll again. Like I've got 4 hours to wait in Ontario, OR before heading home. Block heater would be nice but no power available. No need for block heater at home with garage temps around 35 to 40 F. Add-on: It was only +3F in Midvale when I rolled through.