Mopar1973Man
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Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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If can grab a DVM or test light and test for power at the bulb plug and see if the power is going out. Need to figure out is it the +12V going away or is the ground missing at the outage times. This will help me figure out the next step. Being the bulb is the electrical load and you need a POS and NEG power source. -
"The Worlds Greatest Group of Cummins Minds" all in one spot on the internet... The more you hang around and talk to people you learn so much and there are so many resources at your fingertips.
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That right there points to bad fuse which is weird. Typically a fuse will heat slightly with the load and then open if its cracked then slowly cool and then close and then the light will come back on.
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I'm hoping he gets the final product made. It actually reads all the data on the CCD network. I'm hoping he adds the high idle on and off switch too in the future.
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Thank you for the wonderful comments for the M73M site and gang... I would contact @Dynamic and talk to Jon about this. I'm sure he can help sort this out for you. Jon is an awesome transmission guy and extremely knowledgeable.
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@Marcus2000monster Have you pulled the bulbs and checked the sockets and the filaments? It's possible for the filament to break and vibrate causing the same thing to happen with flicker.
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@Marcus2000monster I created a support ticket to Chris O so he should get the message and I also linked him to the post above.
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Give the dealer a call and ask them. Another would be ask Chris O about it he should know.
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Might double check AC noise from the alternator. AC noise will foul and effect all sensors.
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Trust me you tell the gang you want to spend money they will do it for ya. I would suggest looking at the vendors we work with and let them know you coming from M73M site and might be able to gain some bonus on prices.
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@pepsi71ocean Trust me this man can do serious tricks in making the 47RE transmission do all kinds of magical things!
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Finally wore the timing piston out and no longer can set timing properly. Now after it warms up can you reset the code? I'm wondering if the piston is galling up or deformed the cylinder when cold it binding up but after the pump has some heat does it straighten out? You might be able to buy some time do a double shot of 2 cycle oil and see what happens.
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So... After you turned off the warm-up mode the high idle did stop correct? I'm just wanting to verify which high idle system is operating. I know the ECM high idle from Cummins will cut out if the engine load is too high during the high idle mode. Like exhaust brake, grid heater load and super cold temperatures can cause Cummins ECM to cut out the high idle. As for the Quadzilla high idle I'm assuming its an APPS fooler but not sure if there is a cancel trigger because of excessive load.
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Make sure to test for excessive AC noise and highly suggest you do the W-T ground wire mod.
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P00AF - Turbocharger Boost Control Module Performance Theory of Operation The Variable Geometry Turbocharger (VGT) is electronically controlled by the Electronic Turbo Actuator. The Electronic Turbo Actuator is a smart device; it communicates information with the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) over the J1939 BUS. The Electronic Turbo Actuator performs its own internal diagnostics and reports failures back to the PCM. The PCM then decodes the error message and converts it to a fault code. The PCM lights the Malfunction Indicator Lamp (MIL) after the diagnostic runs and fails in two consecutive drive cycles. The PCM will turn off the MIL immediately after this diagnostic runs and passes in four consecutive drive cycles. When Monitored and Set Conditions When Monitored: This diagnostic runs continuously when the following conditions are met: • With the ignition on. Set Conditions: • The Electronic Turbo Actuator has detected an internal error in the Variable Geometry Turbocharger (VGT) smart device. Default Actions: • The MIL is illuminated. Possible Causes Electronic Turbo Actuator Wiring Harness Electronic Turbo Actuator Diagnostic Test 1. OTHER DTCS 1. Ignition on, engine not running. 2. With the scan tool, read DTCs. Is U010C active? Yes • Repair U010C first. • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure). No • Go To 2 2. ELECTRONIC TURBO ACTUATOR 1. Turn ignition off. 2. Disconnect the Electronic Turbo Actuator harness connector. NOTE: Check connectors - Clean/repair as necessary. Are there dirty or damaged pins? Yes • Repair/Replace as necessary. • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure). No • Replace the Turbocharger Actuator in accordance with the Service Information.(Refer to 09 - Engine, 6.7L Diesel/Turbocharger System/ACTUATOR, Turbocharger/Removal) • Perform the POWERTRAIN VERIFICATION TEST - 6.7L. (Refer to 28 - DTC-Based Diagnostics/MODULE, Powertrain Control (PCM) - Standard Procedure).
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Yeah go new on the tuner. No sense in buy an older unit and miss out on newer features.
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Like @Me78569 suggests 7 x 0.010 injectors. I'm running 7 x 0.0085 injectors now. I'm considering the 7 x 0.010 injectors and have them popped to 320 bar.
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Injectors only last about 100k miles. Even though the injectors still run fine the pop pressure could be really low. Like my stock injectors have 150k miles and they run fine but the pop pressure is below the 293 Bar limit. More like 250-260 IIRC.
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DAP still rents the Smarty for that purpose.
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Gone. I'm one piece human. No tubes, wires or bags...
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Just a quick update. The KYB's Gas-a-just has been a good shock on my truck. A bit on the stiff side compared to my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500. Still in all the ride is good I would call excellent but it keeps the tires in contact with the road very well.
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Turbo wise there would be a small gain being the HE351 is just the same as my HX35/40 hybrid (60/60/12) vs the stock HX35W which was 54/60/12. You will gain more air flow vs the stock but not going to gain much more boost per se. Might add a touch more lag but that's it.
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Super simple. IOD fuse. (Ignition Off Draw) this fuse has a yellow pull collar that pulls the fuse out of the socket but keeps it from being lost. Pull that fuse out and all the draw should be gone unless you have stuff tied directly to the battery accessory wise that may continue to draw. You could put a circuit breaker on the main power lead to the PDC and then just hit the trip button and the entire truck would be disconnected.
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Hell yeah... Simple life and easy living. Oh trust me. I'm talking to many people about diet changes and herbs to help with the blood pressure. Between that and the cannabis at night. I'm super grateful that the cannabis is helping with the healing of my bladder and my right kidney.
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Right now the local economy is very slow till spring time. I'm going to use this time to work primarily on my health FIRST. Then once I'm sure I can handle the stress and workload I'll jump in the saddle of wrench turning. I've had a wake-up call. Good Lord gave me a huge warning to change what I'm doing and handle things differently. Like this morning I'm eating health with oatmeal and going to get my tail out to the shop and work on the Cummins. I need to handle the fuel leak issue. Then once I get that handled I can pull my mountain bike out of the woodshed and get it fixed up for riding again. I'm going to start riding my bicycle again and get exercise. I'm going to limit my web work a bit for now again focusing primarily on my health and getting into shape. As for where we live yeah it long ways from medical attention but... Monthly expenses are a fraction of what people pay in the Ontario - Boise Area. There is no way we could survive down there and with the cost of living. Again here we come back to the current economy and lack of business is a good thing right now I can finish healing and get my body in shape and then jump into the workforce this spring ready for action.
