Mopar1973Man

Kind of why I like NV4500 5 speed manual transmissions. They are locked up in ALL gears. No programmer need. Seriously I understand what you are talking about. Like there is a point like my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 will downshift to 3rd and unlock and remain that way pulling little grades and just generates a ton of heat. You have to remember to hit the O/D OFF button and then in locks up. Then once you hit flat ground again you gotta remember to hit the button again to get 4th lockup. I'm not very impressed with the 46RE or 47RE they all seem to have the same weird shift habits and not locking or hold a gear they way you wish.

MPG mode with prevent pre-heat of the grid heaters at key on.

@IBMobile has a solution talk to him.

Exactly... The IAT will affect the pre-heat cycle but the battery temperature controls the post heat cycle after the engine is started. If you leave the MPG mode up on a cold start the grid heater will not fire. Then after it starts it will run grid heaters. Now the strange but true you can have 195°F coolant and IAT at 90°F and the grid heater will still fire post heat. Even though the IAT could be fooled to 143°F still the gird heaters will fire on post heat. This is the battery temperature sensor feeding this data.

Normal. Exhaust brakes places a valve in the exhaust stream so the pressure in the cylinders to blow back into the manifold. This oily / soot mess is normal for exhaust brake users. Mine is no different.

Give these folks a shot. Handling my PCM problem quite well. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/196-auto-computer-specialist/ I'll tag @Auto Computer Specialist to get them involved.

We now have @Auto Computer Specialist here on the site and here is there forum area. https://mopar1973man.com/forum/196-auto-computer-specialist/

Yeah, Chicken man did good... He called it right and thought of something I would have missed. Congrad @dripley for fixing one truck. Now keep going! You'll get the hang of it yet...

Like I said you going to have to check those fuses. Pull the square ones out and ohm test the fuses. I've seen those crack and look fine but the circuit is dead. Here is all the power from the battery to past the key switch.

I would check the lift pump lead from the ECM with a test light. See if the ECM is actually putting power out. If so then the lift pump has issues. If the ECM is not supplying power then the ECM is having issues.

Check out IOD fuse in the cab. It might of blown. You have to open the yellow clip to get the fuse out. Then check all the fuses in the PDC under the hood.

It could be proportioning valve or it could be the rear axle dumping pressure in the ABS system but your ABS light might not be working.

That's funny...

The whole reason I'm an owner of a Dodge Cummins was an I lifted my 1972 Power Wagon and then added larger tires and wheels. Then I proceeded to eat the steering boxes, wheel bearings, and wheel joints. Didn't help that it was 4 wheel drum brakes either. I broke more stuff in that front axle than I did in the entire truck. I made I promise to myself I'd never do that again. I've held that promise now for very long time and still got zero issue with this truck. Funny how that happened.

243k miles on my last VP44. I'm at 362k miles now. 50k miles under warranty P0216 code lift pump failed no gauges. 243k miles and failed P0216 code stuck full advanced! Still clicking along.

Yes sir. Originally it was a 400 CID engine Dad sludged it up pretty badly. I had a custom 383 CID built bolted on a 727 Torqueflite 3 speed. I'm one of the few here that remembers the point tune kit. Book of matches. Sad to say that old school knowledge is no longer even used anymore. I tend to like the electronics realm of the 24V and above. There is way more to power to get out of the engine with tuning. Even with the old school 1996 I'm rocking 40 degrees of timing and nearly touching 18 MPG. I know the display below didn't fire this time.

ECM has no protection to the lift pump so if the pump locks up and the amperage rises sharply the ECM will fry. Kind of like I learned about the PCM field lead which my alternator shorted the field +12V to ground and the PCM fried internally. AirDog or FASS fuel system are a good idea. Then The W-T ground mod is another good idea.

Back in the 70's the odometer wheels where held in with a clip. You just took the cluster out. 2 screws on the speedometer. Popped the clip and spun the numbers where you wanted. Re-assembled. Took about an hour to do. Yeah, I lost 2 speedometers in my old 1973 Dodge Charger. I got really good at reset odometers back in the day. That car left my care at 336,xxx miles about 4 years ago. I grew up in the time of points and timing lights. Most of the pups here never had the fun of playing with a Mallory Dual Point Distributor.

I would get a live data tool and watch the ECT and IAT numbers. Both IAT and ECT should match on a cold morning start. Then IAT should run about +40F to the outside air during the summer. Being it winter time it might be closer to +60F over outside. Sorry, I don't know the offset amount for C (Metric).

Error codes? P0216 code will not trip the check engine light Fuel pressure? Optimal 14 to 20 PSI. 270km equals 167k miles. It possible you injectors are worn out. My factory injectors ran 150k miles and pop pressure was down way too low.

W-T ground wire mod done? Battery Condition? Alternator performance / AC noise?

Yes sir... Once the odometer goes to 999,999 it stays...

Throw @cajflynn in the pile then 1.3 million miles never rebuilt.

Way too many 2nd Gen out that are totally molested. Just look at FB groups...