Mopar1973Man

Like I said varies vehicle to vehicle.

White smoke is a sign of retarded timing. P-pump has a timing plug on the back of the pump. Where you remove the plug a little engine oil will drain out. Now inside the plug is a plastic alignment tool. Now roll the engine over to TDC #1 there should be a metal tab in the hole now. The plastic plug is to hold the pump shaft. The hard part is the tightening the pump nut without turning the pump shaft and breaking the plastic plug off inside.

Should... I used a cheap $40 tablet on mine for years.

DVM meter... DVM has to have AC scale for 2 volts or LESS. The DVM need to be able to measure more than just 60 Hz AC frequency like house power. I know O-scope is the best way but most people don't have the money for a good one. Like myself, I use a Fluke 75 DVM and it auto-scaling and reads on just about any frequency still. After you verify that then we'll talk about ground wires and fixing them.

AC noise? Have you tested for excessive AC noise from the alternator? Bad master ground for the ECM (passenger side cable)? Most likely you're drifting slowly into this RPM band and the AC noise comes on fouling the tach signal with a harmonic that the ECM thinks it's over-revving so it cuts fuel. Then if you stand on the throttle then you pass that band of harmonic and the ECM pulls through.

Someone messed with the voltage adjustment. TPS should read ZERO at idle. I ditched ScanGauge because of all the trouble to code in new gauges or data. There is no data logging function either. That lead me to change over to OBDLink LX which is what I've got now. It automagically can detect all data on the bus without programming. Then all the common apps out there have data logging features. Then its also cordless, so you can be at the engine bay with your mobile device and still see all the gauges without cord keeping you to the cab. I've been know to pull into the garage close the door and have the truck cooling down and being able to watch all the gauges still from upstairs in the living room.

Personally, I think you got an air leak up top. Connector tube o-ring or a mis-seated connector tube or injector which allows for it to drain back to the fuel tank. Because parking nose down keep the fuel from running back uphill to the fuel tank. It could be even the return tee on the back of the head doing it too.

At least with the Quadzilla and Edge Juice is a limitation of the CANBus, MAP sensor, and ECM. OBDII port is not used at all in Quadzilla case. Totally different network. Like another one is Coolant temp is limited to 204*F and then it rolls over -40*F. Again this is a CANBus limit but now on the OBDII port the coolant report totally normal values.

Well Jeez... May I should give up then... M73M server is CentOS Linux. My home PC is Ubuntu Linux. Android is a family of LInux... All my stuff is going to break then. Strange... The only phone I broke was the one I left on my tonneau cover and it blew off into the highway and a little car ran it over. To this day it still boots up, but the radio antenna was crushed.

Very valid points. It not so much Quadzilla limit but the MAP sensor limits and ECM. MAP sensor is pretty accurate up to about 20 PSI after that the number skew and vary from vehicle to vehicle. Boost should be measured from an external gauge. Even Edge Juice has this same problem.

Sorry, I work my phone like I work my truck. Nothing I own sits around idle or light duty.

As far as I know, my factory does not have a tube at all on the return side. That being said never had a hard start problem. I'm not drawing from the sender basket. I am returning the block and overflow of the VP44 to the basket. My AirDog returns to the filler neck. All my return line are NOT submerged. Just to make you think...

LOL... Maybe iPhone (iDevices) should catch up. Android is designed for 3 Amp charge rate. Damn tiny iPhone 2 Amp chargers are too slow and don't keep up. I know my LG G5 Android phone came with 3 Amp charger straight from LG.

I'm still going to find a way without cutting up the dash.

Oh, come on now. Get out there and get that thing stuff in the dash. Cuss and swear at the old plug getting out of the dash. Then cuss and swear at the new one getting it in the dash. I can see it coming myself too. I'm sure I'll figure out a solution to get it in there.

I also just ordered my USB power point as well. I'll be installing this when I get it. I'm tired of the crappy cigarette lighter plug stuff and going to switch over to USB powered stuff. I still need to order a USB cord for my Garmin 42LM GPS. That will be two less cigarette light plugs to deal with. Be nice to have both on the normal cigarette lighter plug being that shuts off with the key. Where the power point below is constant on power. This happens to be my battery killer...

NAPA thermostat has been excellent replacements. I'm currently playing with a 180*F thermostat. The newest version from NAPA has a much wider mouth than past versions. Never had a NAPA thermostat fail yet. Alway gotten the miles out of them and never left me too cold or overheating.

Still in all... 360k miles and now losing a gasket. No big deal. I've got to get some time and order a gasket from Rocky Mountain Cummins.

Absolutely... What we started out with on Canned Tunes and now moving towards a fully programmable tuner is way better than years gone by where injectors were the factor if a tuner smoked or not. Now you can have much larger injectors and be smoke-free. That way the RV275 injectors are so popular is that was the best injector to stack with a "Canned Tune" tuner and still get a gain of powrr and be smoke free. Now with the Quadzilla Adrenaline guys are reaching 150 HP and 250 HP injectors and still keeping smoke-free to fairly smoke free. @Quadzilla Power is it possible to consider in future cable design that allows the Quadzilla module and bluetooth head moved into the cab? Be great for smog states and cities to be able to hide the module under the dash and just have wires under the hood. Being Quadzilla can run headless makes it a perfect tuner for this case.

Just remember GAWR is the absolute maximum weight of the axles. So even using that number it will be below that specified pressure. As for scales... Just in my travels, I know of at least 4 free scales I pass 3 times a week. Truck scales are every where and if you simply ask a lot of times the shop or shop will hand write down your numbers. Like I know of another scale on a public road in Nyssa, ID you can access and scale on your own. There is another trucker scale over in Horsebend, ID that is always on. Just drive up and look at the display. Scales are everywhere just most people just don't think about it.

Factory configuration... I've covered 360k miles on my truck and its 16 years old. I've replaced... 1 set of wheel joints (357k on the joints when the passenger side failed) 2 sets of unit bearings (roughly 180k a piece) 1 set of ball joints 1 set of tie rod ends 1 set of brake pads 2 track bars

Even my little 1500 Dodge has different front and rear pressures because of very different axle weights.

Scales are needed for either method.

W-T ground mod just reduces the AC noise but bad alternator diodes create the noise. What it was the charge lead ran past the ground lead dumping the AC noise back in the ECM side and fouling the ECM tach sensor and such. I say to disconnect the alternator and go for a test drive. If the weirdness stops then you know its the alternator. As for APPS sensor the only way it will create that issue is if the rheostat is worn out in one spot. Typically you can see it on a live data tool and watch the TPS jump up and down rapidly.