Mopar1973Man

Heck just good fuel management will do more that all the bolt on mods you can buy.

Red / white that comes in the cab.

243k miles on my last VP44. @dripley is going to beat me on the VP44 lifespan. ...and they said the NV4500 had weak input shafts and 5th gear nut problems. Never had any issues with either. I proved them wrong when I broke the mainshaft in half at the 3rd/4th gear syncros with nothing more than Edge Comp and +50 HP injectors. I tend to take most of this transmission weakness as rumor now. As for all the transmission fears I don't buy into them at all. Now I'm running +75 HP injectors and Quadzilla which is way more power than Edge Comp and +50 HP.

I know @dieselautopower has that same book and he could answer the specs.

Comparing notes with @pepsi71ocean my injectors are about the same stages as his +100HP and getting low in the pop pressures.

Stay stock...

RV275 are ISB stock injectors for the RV series engine. Yes, they are VCO. You are better off getting a tuner before considering playing with injectors. Even RV275 are going to be smokey and laggy because of the lack of timing to fit the injectors. This was common back in the days before Quadzilla. There is no way to increase fueling without smoke when you are without a tuner. Jus the tuner alone will jump you forward +180 HP that is clean compared to a mere +40 HP of RV275 injectors that will be still smokey because of lack of tuning.

First I would fix all the external leaking. Even if it just the vent tube. Power wash the engine clean so you can be sure. The amount lost could just a fluke. Check again on the next oil change.

Now to source out a 10 AWG fusible link...

Air brake line is typically rated for 600 PSI bust point. Fuel and oil resistant. Where cheap oil pressure gauge kits typically get brittle and break with slight flexing. Air brake tubing is way stronger and more tolerant of heat and flexing. I've got roughly 4 years on my tubing still flexible and holding up good.

Agreed!

362k miles... Still rolling the odometer...

@IBMobile for our 140 Amp alternator what would you suggest for a fusible link for that?

Interesting...

Need to have at least 5 feet of tube between the last snubber before the sender for the gauge. This allows the pulses to fade out over distance of the tubing. The ISSPro EV2 gauge will come with a sinstered snubber as well. Stack that after the needle valve then 5 feet of tubing then the sender. NOTE: Grease gun hoses doesn't count. Too short of a distance and the flexible hose doesn't dampen any of the pulses.

Yes, you grid heaters are hitting. I would say the diodes are OK but I would do the W-T ground mod. On a grid heater hit I'm barely 29mV AC and idle no load is now about 12mV AC.

Remove the dash bezel. Then you might have to drop the steering column to remove the cluster but it held in by 4 screws. Once the 4 screws are removed you should be able to pull it out of the dash socket. Like mine won't come out unless I drop my column slightly to gain clearance.

In the yard no. As for in New Meadows, Idaho I drove there a nasty winter storm last night so bad it buried my headlight till it went nearly dark on me. HID lights don't have even heat to keep the snow off the outer plastic in a bad storm. That is my exhaust brake switch.

I've got to ask another wild question do you have a live data tool? if so take notice to the IAT temperature. If the engine coolant temperature and the intake air temperature don't match then more than likely the IAT sensor could be bad. It's possible for the IAT sensor to fail within specs and not trip an error code. But... The intake air temperature reports wild temperature could be very high and prevent the grid heaters from coming on. This poses another thought too. I know my High Idle Kit has the MPG mode which fools the IAT to show 143°F at key on the grid heaters will not fire at all. Then after starting the grid heaters will cycle in. I wonder if the IAT circuit has a homebrew resistor added as a fooler and causing the grid heaters not to fire. This could be seen with the live data tool as well it will report 143°F typically regardless hot or cold.

Even with the grid heaters running I max out at 29mV AC for ripple out of the alternator. That is full load on the alternator.

Got it all put together now. I got the two USB cables for both my cellphone and my Garmin GPS in black color and 6 foot long which gave more than enough for routing the cables through the dash to the device. Then the Cobra hard wire kit was great too. No more cigarette light for it. I just wired it into the terminal strip under the dash. It now on the key with engine on and not the accessory position. No more listening to it beep at store alarm while sitting in parking lots. Comes out of the USB charger and then head back into the dash. I've still got my other USB Cigarette plug style for down in the power point but not required now. USB is bit thicker cable so not to break the bezel I routed to the bottom of the bezel where there is a gap to get back into the dash. This was a PITA to route the wire for. There isn't much room left in the dash gap to get a fuse cartridge through. Should have brought the plug end up through the bottom with a piece of baling wire as a fish tape. If you are wondering the other wire is my red emergency flasher hidden behind the rearview mirror.

Remember some codes like P0216 code does NOT trip the Check Engine light. Do you have power to the main terminals of the relays? (Large black cables)

Don't say that I might order +100 HP nozzles...

Only thing to add to @trreed post is all the guys I've ever talked to after doing a P-pump swap typically take a hit to MPG's. This why I don't suggest it for daily driver setup. Again all depends on how you set it up and how much time you willing to tinker with timing and fueling setups. Normally the p-pump is for guys looking for big HP numbers.

Huge reduction of AC noise from the alternator is kept away from the VP44 and ECM and prevent their failure from occurring. The master ground for the ECM, PCM, and VP44 all run right beside the alternator charge lead. So the AC noise jumps off and rides the ground lead back to the computers kill the modules with AC noise pulses. As you can see here the ground is right next to the alternator charge lead. What the mod does is put the alternator on the passenger battery and the engine ground to the block near the VP44 with the added lead back to the driver side battery separating the charge lead and the master ground by FEET of distance!