Mopar1973Man

I almost fell into the same trap. Then I took another sip of coffee and the fuel pressure clicked that's 12V specs.

03 and up I'm not sure what material is used in the pump.

Outside / Inside door -> Evaporator -> Blend door -> Heater core -> Vent selector door The only other thought is do you get everything lined up right and bolted down correctly?

All I can say about power steering fluid and change interval. You should be changing every 30k miles. I've been using petroleum power steering fluid since the beginning. My steering box never failed as in sloppy steering but the seals failed from excessive rust around the seal. As for my power steering pump it's still going strong. When I reseal my reservoir it was exceptionally clean inside and no sludge build up or debris. I've still got my OEM hydro-booster and still without leaks. Mine is a cast iron housing on the power steering pump.

This one I know of for sure. After having such a long conversation with Ryan at Blue Top.

P-pump fuel pressure sounds about right. Mechanical lift pump tends to lose volume in the higher RPM range. This is normal. Boost is resulting typically of spent fuel. Like what I'm learning with the Quadzilla on the 24V engine as you retard timing you can increase boost but at a loss of efficiency. Then if you advance timing you push more of the burning cycle in the cylinder making the boost lower and EGT's lower. Sad but true a P7100 is a static timing pump that has no advancement.

Blend door is not going to be it. The outside / inside door would be more in line for the problem.

I've changed up complete since this start of this thread. Warm up Mode temperature - 170°F Installed thermostat - 180°F High idle delay - 15 seconds Some might not think this optimal setting but allow high idle to kick back in after a shortstop somewhere in cold weather. Like my current travels going back and forth to Ontario, OR I typically stop in Weiser, ID for breakfast those days. Be there for about 45 minutes and when I come back out to fire up the engine is still plenty warm yet. But the warm-up mode kicks in and high idle engages while I wait for MoparMom to come to the truck. I'm waiting for serious cold weather to drop in and see if the high idle will restart if the coolant falls below the set temperature. This would be optimal for us that are in the extreme cold weather be able to gain the coolant temperature if it happens to fall below you set point and then cancel after rising above the set point again. This would actually save fuel.

Just for information purpose, I've updated my tuning guide more.

Smoke issues and fueling issues are based on the injector pop pressure. Edge Juice is designed around strictly stock injectors very hard to clean up big injectors on Edge tuner. I ran the Edge Comp for years a +50HP was too big to clean up properly.

Mine is a True Pyrometer flue temp not just pipe temp.

Yeah typical winters for me have my truck in lots of flooded highways and lots of slush. At least now every oil change I can lube all these now.

I'm wanting to replace my Kenwood soon. I've got a wonderful MP3 player but I'd like to have Bluetooth.

I went with NAPA wheel joints. NAPA wheel joints are greaseable. My problem was the bearing caps where rust to the shafts. Driver side required better that 20 ton press to get the cap to even move. Passenger side took me over 4 hour of beating with hammer and MAP torch to get the passenger side apart. I'd rather have them fail before 100k that fight to get 350k wheel joints to even move with 4 hours of swing 6 pound hammer.

No longer made. As far as u know there is no new ECM available. Just like VP44 only rebuilt units.

Mine only creosote the last 2 foot of chimney just above the roof. Even with chimney temps above 1,400 at 12 inches above the stove the chimney top is just too cold to even bother creosote. I've got 6 inch pipe stainless as a liner in the brick chimney.

Reason why... 2002 and older is a Sagnaw steering box which is designed for power steering fluid and don't forget the hydrobooster. All the seals are designed for power steering fluid. 2003 and newer is a FORD steering box. Yes, it's a Ford Motor Company steering box and pump hence why the change over to ATF after 2003.

I humbly bow out...

P0576 is cruise control voltage low error. This has something to do with steering wheel control if I'm not mistaken. You can unplug the PCM and see if the truck starts. Only need the ECM for the engine to run.

1st Gen no listing of any fuse or fusible link... Dodge Factory Service Manual. 2nd Gen... Clearly shows the fuse... As for 3rd gen and up I'll have to EAT MY WORDS... There is a fusible link but it in the loom somewhere.

So now search back on the internet and you find no such thing has ever happened. The diode will burn out like a fuse and that the end of it. The circuit is now open.

@W-T got me thinking about the whole thing too. When you check back on the Dodge Ram truck history. 1st Gen 89 to 93 - No alternator fuse. 2nd Gen 94 to 02 - 140 Amp Alternator Fuse in PDC 3rd Gen 03 to 07 - No alternator fuse. 4th Gen 07 to 18 - No alternator fuse. 5th Gen coming out in 2019. Most likely won't have an alternator fuse either. You should see mine I still got all the OEM cables yet and excellent condition and never corroded once!

Correct. The heavy cable has way less voltage loss in the travel. This why the charge lead needs to be as short as possible. I cut off over 4 foot of cable and down to a mere foot or so of cable to the battery. A huge reduction in voltage loss in the run across the front of the engine back to the PDC.

Mine just past 360k miles and started a coolant leak at the top corner.

Same with mine. Dead silent operation.