Mopar1973Man

Stock transmission does not drain back typically. I've never had to wait like now. Every morning I've got to start it wait about 10 seconds before the transmission will do anything. Before it would move instantly after starting.

At any rate, all that stock plumbing has to come out. It's just too small of pipe for what the engine requires. All the banjo line are 6mm (0.23") This is smaller than 1/4" fuel lines. Our engine does the best with full 1/2" lines and keeps the pressure stable over a wider range of fuel demands.

I've been running NAPA thermostats and never found a bad one yet.

I highly suggest against this. Canned tunes are only built for stock trucks. Now after you put bigger injectors and other mods on that canned tune will not fit anymore. This is what pushed me away from the Edge Comp toward the Quadzilla at least with the Quadzilla you can control your fuel to boost and keep the smoke down to nothing. Where my Edge Comp couldn't run any setting without smoking fairly good. So with that being said the Edge Comp will not fit. I'm not sure what turbo that is exactly. Sounds like my HX35/40 Hybrid. I would suggest you get ahold of Jacob over at Diesel Auto Power he's got a better turbo that will fit. He's was wanting me to jump on this because it would fit my fuel I've got at 7 x 0.0085 injectors. Now my 7 x 0.0085 injectors from DAP and my HX35/40 (60/60/12) turbo with the Quadzilla on Level 3 (of my custom tune which is CANBus only) I can haul my RV (31 foot Jayco) up any grade 6% or 7% with my foot mashed to the floor and never reach 1,200*F. If you wanting custom tunes guys here will be glad to help build a tune that does what you want. You can even jump in the Download area and download available tunes. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/

Something about the valve body. You will have to ask @Dynamic about this.

Just Neutral. There is a mod that transmission rebuild can do to make it pump in park as well. The side effect is the torque converter will drain out over night.

Nope. You need to pull the radiator and inspect it in the open. You'll be surprised of how much debris is in the face.

Even without oil vapor. Just the road mud will dry and cake up on the radiator as well.

Just need a better fuel system. The overflow valve typically opens at 14 PSI. So any fuel pressure below 14 PSI the overflow is closing. It's completely closed by 10 PSI. As for the overflow valve typically they don't wear out. This still brings you back to getting a AirDog or FASS. Not going to change til you upgrade.

I wonder if those will hold a 9,000-pound Cummins?

I watched the reverse... Few big names went to AMSOil ATF in the power steering and ended up eating the pump and steering gearbox multiple times. Our systems are not designed for ATF. Now 2003 on the Sagnaw box was discontinued and Ford steering box was used from 2003 on. Hence way the 3rd and 4th gen use ATF in the power steering.

Heck I've never gotten that high yet even idling in parking lot for 3 hours with 110F outside temps. No airflow around the fuel tank.

Don't do it. It will cause seal failure. Our system are designed for power steering fluid. 3rd gens are a Ford steering box and requires ATF.

Lets say it really rare for anyone to trip the P0168 code for high fuel temp. I can't remember the temp that trips the code. Lets say the highest I've seen is right at 140F. Winter time ill have to watch and see.

If you look at your IAT sensor. Now just forward of it is a 1/2 NPT pipe plug in the block. That is a coolant passage. The intake manifold is heated with coolant and that heat is conducted into the stock filter housing. This was designed to reduce the time on the electric fuel heater. Once the coolant temp came up it would aid in fuel temps in the winter. Hence way the IAT and fuel temp run close together. If you really wanted to cool things down I'm going to bet a 180F thermostat would do the trick. I might just experiment with that.

After loading with fuel 26 gallons the fuel temp dropped to 110F and slowly worked its way back up to close to IAT temp. I do know a secret to that...

EV2 is programmable to set you warning light then you can program an accessory relay as well. Then they lighting is programmable so you can match it to you dash lighting level. The reaction speed of the gauge needle is programmable too. I got the EV2 to prove I could setup a electric gauge properly without failure. Yes I've got both needle valve and snubber. The air brake line is 5 foot long give good distance for water hammer pulses. The valve is just to close the line in case of failure.

Be aware the forced on mode might have an issue. Being the hi and lo pressure switches are now locked out. It would be possible to operate the compressor beyond the lo point and freeze up the evaporator or possibly operate above safe 450 PSI limit which is no explosion issue. Now if it was force on using the dash wiring now the pressure switches would be in the loop.

What is returned to the tank. What the temperature at least from the VP44. Remember the head is going to be 190-200*F. Take notice to the IAT and fuel temp they typically run close to each other all the time. Make it interesting today... Ran it to the point of seeing the low fuel light and 1/8 of tank.

The only difference between my mayo jar and this is the pressure is external to the system vs the master cylinder doing all the pressure work no difference though. Hook up the mayo jar, crack the bleeder, jump in the seat and pump the pedal. The vinyl tubing in the jar the tip is submerged in the fluid so it's not possible to draw back up the air and this can be done by a single person.

I'm hoping to jump into this task by Sunday and get mine done. I need to get the Cummins rolling.

310 bar is stock...

That's what your Buddy @JAG1 though about putting JAG1 and VP44 injection pump together. He made it through and got the injection pump installed. I'm sure we can guide you through the wiring just as well.

Compressor modes - MAX A/C, A/C, BiLevel, Floor-DEF and DEF. No Compressor modes - Vent or Floor. Outside air - All other Modes except MAX A/C. Recir Air - Only MAX A/C.