Mopar1973Man

It's possible to have an electric fan clutch fail too. I've got 3rd Gen I've got to change fan clutch on really soon. Same kind of overheat issues as well. If I'm not mistaken the fan clutch is controlled from ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature) sensor so if the data is coming through and the gauge is showing it then I would have to think fan clutch next step.

No longer have too... The grade from Council, ID back to New Meadows some nights required 4th because of road conditions and traffic now I can pull in 5th and never downshift. That is one thing this tire change has really help with allowing the truck to stay in 5th longer. That's what I'm looking for in the next few tanks of fuel... I don't travel interstates any longer. Just back and forth New Meadows, ID to Ontario, OR. No longer have the Boise run to deal with. That is also something I factored in was the average road speeds I run. Even though the speed limit is 55 MPH between Council to New Meadows I typically ran that road at 45 to 50 MPH get to watch for deer and animal bouncing up on the highway also like I said some days get stuck behind a trucker running slow with nowhere to pass for long stretch. Speed limits typically are 45, 55 and 65 MPH. Small towns: 25 MPH typically. The change on the lower end of the RPM seems very small. (Speed is off by -1 MPH so its actually 65 MPH as reported by my GPS)

Already done that too. 245's I've got right now are rated 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI Load Range E's You want to use Engine Load. Engine load is the amount of fuel being injected. EGT's are not a good way being just a small hill and EGT's could climb to 800*F but the engine load could be 20%. Then flatten back out and have EGT's now down to 550*F and engine load of 17%. I'm going to have to capture a few fresh screenshots.

This is the point of rotational mass. Guys that race knows you need to ditch parasitic losses down. Rotation weight is a key here. I know you can't run racing slicks on the highway but there are much better options that heavy M/T series 35" or 37" inch tire that is in the range of 120 pounds. I've done it years ago and weighed my 235's vs 265's and there was a 23-pound difference. I made it to 243k miles on my last VP44. I think ol' @dripley will beat my highmark soon. As for 2 cycle oil it's a dual bonus. 2 Cycle Oil is a natural cetane reducer or BTU increaser. As cetane goes down the BTU's rise. 2 Cycle Oil is a true lubricant where most diesel fuel additives if you pour a sample in a cup it will evaporate in a short time. Even though the product claim to be a lubricant.

Back to tires... Go to a tire shop that sells racing slicks. Now get a 295's tire and a racing slick and check out the weight difference. http://hpwizard.com/rotational-inertia.html All the NASCAR racers can't be wrong...

Basically what it comes down to is reducing rolling resistance, rotational loss, and drag. More you lean towards the 3.73 ratio the lower the drag is on the vehicle. Like my design in tire is to put my cruise speed near 2k on the tach. Then you look at fuel chemistry and lower cetane has more BTU's. This is why the winter fuel drops MPG numbers and summer fuel rises. Then another secret colder the intake air the more it cranks up the timing. The ECM jump up about 3* more timing with IAT temps below 80*F. Hence where my MPG fooler design comes from it retards the timing back to summer values. Cold air is not MPG friendly. Optimally you want 100-140*F IAT temps for high MPG's. If you are running the Quadzilla you have to be aware of temperatures being the Quadzilla doesn't use either fuel temp or IAT temps at all. So you have to retard your timing map for hot days. Cold days you can advance it. Wind drag on our truck is pretty good. Lift kits and large tire place you higher in the wind and promote more wind drag and you have to drive slower to reduce that drag. Optimal in the past I found the best MPG in the 55 MPH realm. Just increasing to 65 MPH you've doubled your wind drag. If you looking for MPG you have to think about it like a race car. Reduce rotational mass and body weight on the truck.

Curious myself.

Yeah those don't look right. Ugh... I was hoping for the factory seat skins or covers.

Stupid neighbors... They started gathering up at around 5pm and played loud music till dark. The lit a bonfire with an explosive BOOM. Then proceeded to shot off commercial-grade fireworks till nearly midnight.

That's the foam how about the cover?

Could you post links to what you ordered. I'm curious.

Be aware there are places on this earth where solar is not optimal. Like here where I'm at in the dead of winter there is such a small window of direct sunlight that solar is worthless all winter. Remember indirect lighting (shaded) produces 75% to 90% less energy than direct sunlight on the solar panels. Then the more you keep moving north the shorter the daylight hours become. Being I'm living in a solar and hydro powered house I understand the limitations of solar. Now being I've been certified for extraction for the fire dept. There is a huge safety hazard to hybrid cars you MUST know exactly where you can and can't cut on the car for extraction. Then if the car is on fire they highly suggest leaving the car burn the battery is so darn toxic that its best to let it burn than having it leaking battery chemicals that are corrosive and hazardous. I remember read years ago that the Toyota Pirus is the MOST toxic vehicle in the world because of the batteries. http://www.electrocuted.com/2016/11/28/electrocution-hazards-electric-cars/

There is a big difference between Raptor and a Full AirDog. Now that I have done 250k miles on my first AirDog 150 now I got my replacement pump (warranty) and still going. Raptors don't have the return line back to the tank keeping fuel moving. Raptor return to the inlet port for regulation which can produce cavitation and air issues. Not to mention the adjustable regulator issues vs the old school spring and check ball like I've got.

For 3.55 axle gears optimal a 30-inch (3.69 final ratio to the ground) or 31-inch tire (3.55 final ratio to the ground) Other than that plan on the high price of axle gearing... Now if you had 4.10 gears in the axle then your 35-inch tires would have a final ratio of 3.69 to the ground. I know a friend that just was down this road he wanted to keep his 37-inch tires so he had to swap to 4.10 gear in both front and rear axle at a price around $4,000 for do both axles. Looking "Cool" does cost money to do it properly. Basically, you want your final ratio between 3.55 and 3.73 to the ground for MPG.

Tires are too big. Plays a huge role in final ratio to the ground. With 35" inch tire your final gear ratio to the ground is 3.19 with 3.55 axle gears. This will make the truck struggle and create high engine load numbers. Engine load number is exactly how much fuel is being injected. The lower the engine load the better the MPG's. I typically cruise at 15% to 19% engine load. Like myself I've dropped from 265's to 235's to gain a small bit. Now going to be switch 245's which this changes my final gear ratio to the ground 3.69 with 3.55 axle gears. More said here... I'm aiming for the mid 20's again and close to getting there.

Now that I'm running a set of older 245's on the rear of my truck for testing. I've learned quite a bit. Final ratio is much lower it more like 3.73 to the ground now. This amplifies the torque produced considerably. I'm also guilty of the excessive tire pressure and the tires spin loose very easily. I need to sit down and do the math on the tire pressures. Tire Spec: 245/75 R16 - 3,042 pounds at 80 PSI Axle Weight: 2,860 pounds. 2,860 / 2 = 1,430 / 3,042 = 0.47 x 80 PSI = 37.6 PSI I'm currently inflated to 40 PSI and the tire is way too firm and slipping easily .I might drop as low as 30 PSI. I wouldn't suggest this with highway travel the lowest I might run with highway speed will be 35 PSI. As you can see my old aluminum mags on the back.

You do notice that the nose feels high like the hood got a bit longer visually. Nothing super noticeable but still feels different.

Record a MP3 of Cummins running and then burn it to a CD as a long single track. Then play it in your CD player on repeat... Cummins sound for a soundless vehicle...

I've done canopy camping and motorhome camping both. Both have a bad issue of once you get to your place you stuck and have no transportation being the truck bed is your living quarter or motorhome your living quarters and vehicle one on the same. This means if you want to travel and sightsee you have to pack up camp to even move. This is why I ditch my canopy and did a tonneau cover and sold my class C motorhome and bought a Jayco travel trailer.

No, she'll be in bed by the time fireworks even start. Typically start between 9 and 10pm. She is in bed by 8pm.

Realizing that now. Still, in all, I love the final ratio it way better. This truck screams now. I had a 4th gen attempt overtake me on a merge and I outran him. No problem put a 4th gen truck in his place behind me. Acceleration is wicked fast now. Then caught up with a friend for lunch down in Payette and we left together I tried to power through a left turn from a light and the tires let go really easy. Sure is amazing how much more power can be put to the ground by ditching ONE INCH of tire height. I know why the traction sucks are actually two-fold. One is the tires are extremely old and the rubber is really hard. Then the other part is I did not do the math on axle weight to tire pressure so I'm most likely overinflated. Still sit here and wonder why the 35-inch and 37-inch tires are so popular. Steal the power, put more stress on driveline and transmissions. Etc.

I spend a lot of time running between Parma, ID - Ontario, OR and New Meadows, ID I'm sure at some point we'll cross paths. It can happen soon if you wish just call me and we'll make a time to meet. Typically the track bar and the tie rod ends are the biggest things. You can adjust the steering box to take out slack. Ask @Me78569 he's had one in his last truck. I'm going to follow your post on this being the highway salt usage is really high now in Idaho. You would want to talk to @cajflynn that covered 1.3 Million mile on a 53 block. @Dynamic is our site transmission guy that could give you an answer. Or @IBMobile for his lock up controller mod.

3rd Gen (2003 and above) just assume to have $4,000 every 100k mile miles to replace the injectors. So to make 1 million if it would make that far would cost $40,000... 2nd Gen (1998.5 to 2002) figure on having $1,100 every 200k miles for new injection pump and $400 every 100k miles for injectors. It been proven many times that our old 24V crossing 1 million miles so that would cost $9,500... Heck of a lot cheaper, in the long run, to keep your 24V then buying a CR engine.

I'm supposed to haul up to McCall ID tonight to meet up with friends to watch the fireworks over Payette Lake.

Until I see an electric vehicle that is capable of covering several hundred miles on a charge on mountain roads without fuel... You could even throw the Toyota Prius on that 1/4 mile track. fine so the car can drive a quarter mile fast. So what? Will it drive 300 to 500 miles on an electric (no fuel) in a day on a single charge? I already know that this won't happen because of the federal fuel taxes. This is why the true hybrid are sold in EU and the wanna-be gas power hybrids are sold here USA.