Mopar1973Man

Really not that bad. Actually, it's pretty good. Now, this is injector ash.

I'm running twins. My 20-year-old Stihl 046 and then my rather new Stihl 462. Basically the same saw just age difference the newer saw is supposed to be the same size as the 046 but with all the EPA design into the engine, it's not quite the same power. Stihl, in all, it spins that chain and cuts logs into firewood just the same.

That was one of the things I wanted to do was source out the parts for doing alternator rebuild kits for the website. One of the many things no longer sold in a normal part store.

Don't do it. We've got the Timbo's APPS right here in the store. It a true electronics free APPS sensor totally mechanical.

I can do that exact thing using the Quadzilla the export the data to spreadsheet and loaded into graph form.

Smotth TPS signal. It should never jump to 0 or 100 randomly. It should rise smoothly to the weight of your right foot. So if you cruising you should not see it jump from 25% to 75%.

You got to ask for a Live Data Tool. I would suggest like OBDLink LX or MX...

Relocated to my other house... My portable office... Ill Keep the website rolling.

Now do a WOT run on the highway to find your low pressure.

Just checked local Napa has Valvoline 50 SAE for about 12 a quart. Price went up.

You could if you install the fuel pressure sensor.

Works out to about 10 to 11 dollars a quart for what I bought and where. As for Valvoline I can do cheaper yet still 50 SAE GL-4 fluid.

Just crossing 80k on the fluid. No issues to report. The fluid is now getting darker in color more of an engine oil brownish tint. Still no issues shifting gears. No syncro problems to report. Working great in winter cold down to -40*F to summer heat over 100*F. I've got just about 3 years on the transmission. I can with confidence say... Mobil 50 SAE is safe for NV4500 use and will not cause any harm or shifting issues!

I was going to ask the same question...

Impossible. The engine would have to turn to get the valves to open and close to allow flow to the tail pipe. Typically we cap the turbo off add pressure and look for intake plumbing leaks. Anywhere the air can go you check for leaks. From the mouth of the turbo follow the tubing and check every joint. then to the intake on the engine checking gaskets and even o-rings of the 2 sensors (IAT and MAP sensors).

Ask DAP about there new turbo. They have one like my Hybrid 35/40.

Not suppose to flow through. You suppose to pressurized the system and look for leaks.

Being a 3rd Gen box is a Ford Steering box and 2nd Gen is a Sagnaw box I really doubt it. Not to mention the fluid requirements for the 3rd gen is ATF and 2nd Gen is Power steering fluid. You can't cross them with the wrong fluid. You would have to convert everything over to 3rd Gen (Pump, Hydro booster and Steering box) to resolve the fluid issue. Personally not worth it.

Damn German engineered VW's and there goofy automatic manual transmissions.

I have had my grid heaters disconnected since December 2017. If the temperatures were lower than 32*F I would plug in the block heater hour before leaving. Then all day long with the temperature between ZERO and +20*F I would just start and go. The block still would have residual warm and start easy but never thrown a code or had a starting issue.

VCoU31V.mp4

You can wait like 5 minutes and be safe.

China part? Amazon? Looking up on RockAuto they sell Standard and AirTex Wells which both look like what you go in your post.

You could look it up using the part lookup tool in the article database. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/1st-generation/part-number-lookup-tool-1st-gen/1st-gen-dodge-ram-part-number-lookup-tool-r396/

I'm also curious of that statement. As you'll see my boost and fuel pressure sensors are mount on the driver side fender. Boost gauge tap point right next to the MAP sensor is a 3/4" pipe plug. As you can see I bushed it down to 1/8" NPT for the sensor. The tubing runs all the way back to the sensor on the fender. I did this so I wouldn't damage the sensor working on the engine. As for Pyrometer, it should be in the 4, 5, 6 port of the exhaust manifold.