Mopar1973Man

Not good. This is why all pump manufactures have moved to relay protected power. This way the load is not place directly on the ECM. Now the excessive load has burned the lift pump circuit on the ECM. This is repairable but for a price of course. Excessive high lift pump pressure will prevent starting. Leave the pump off and then start the truck and then turn the pump on. Again the ECM does a 50% duty cycle during cranking to reduced lift pump pressure to about 7 to 12 PSI. This aid in starting. Again it would be a good idea to repair the ECM and then wire the lift pump with a protection relay like AirDog and FASS do. It's not about resistance. Here you want a live data tool and measure the TPS signal. It's about the voltage that the ECM sees and the ground triggers (IVS switches).

Economy in my area is going downhill. Riggin One Stop closed down about 2 or 3 month ago. Brown Market is the other one in New Meadows, ID getting rather well, ran down looking. Dirt parking lot. Cheap tin sign out front with Ethanol Free fuel which is only the 91 octane which is the highest price. I've had good connection with the owners of Chevron in Riggins and know their product is clean and pump filters are changed on a standard basis. Still Ethanol fuel but very low amount. Now Maverik in Friutland, ID last time I looked was like 3.4x a gallon for clear gas. Not bad. Now Maverik I've got some faith in for clear gas fuel but sad part is you have to come all way down here for a fair price. Now be aware of some clear gas and its octane rating too. Like Maverik is 87 octane for clear gas. I've tried it in my 1996 Dodge which failed big time. Way to much pre-ignition issues. Now switch back to 91 octane ethanol no problem. Just a heads up.

Nice... I wish I could have a nice truck like that again.

LOL... The list is out of date. Riggins is closed. Never sold ethanol free fuel as far as I know. Then the one in New Meadows I don't trust. Again flaky Mom and pop store. Price is higher than McCall.

Personally, I think you are being just a bit paranoid. Tach need may bounce because of the signal. So if the cluster gets a message that RPM is 810 RPM this second then next second its 790 RPM now the stepper motor in the tech is going to step down. Then if it rises again then it will step back up again. Mine does the same thing but I don't sweat it. Quadzilla tach can jump 10-20 RPM in one second causing the jump. Remember the Smarty will not program the tire size permanently. So when you return to stock the tire setting is lost. This is why I suggested the dealer. Then it can be permanent.

Not available near me. The closest is McCall, ID and they are high for ethanol free fuel. Now in Payette, ID isn't too bad. Your suppose to use biofuels they are much better for the environment... Personally, I wish the whole biofuel craze would stop completely and go back to go old fashioned refined crude oil.

Like myself my VP44 went 243k miles and failed. Then a year later my AirDog 150 the motor died at 250k miles. I'm not complaining one bit. 12 years of service out of both.

Man, that is a long wait to get a truck built. With a box of tools we could all built it by now.

This is one of the few reason I'm not a fan of Smarty S03. The Smarty was designed around stock injectors and not stacking. Now with the extra fuel you'll need more timing. As @Me78569 documented in the logs you really can adjust the timing very much. Here is where the Smarty Touch would fill the void but for the price for just a 60 HP tuner it way better to look towards a Quadzilla.

Just ohm test from the ECM to the MAP and check for 0 ohms. If so the wiring is fine. One wire is ground, one wire is signal and the last one is +5V. So you can test for good 5V and ground at the plug. Beyond that, it means either the Quadzilla is to blame or the MAP sensor. Anywhere you want. I kind of build upside down looking at my cruise timing I want first. The built the performance curve from that offset. Then deepen the performance side by using the load timing offset. So this allows for fairly high-performance timing but allows you to cruise under light performance loads and get enough retarding to build boost. Rather hard to explain... If you want you can call me some time I can explain how this is done.

Typically used super unleaded from the local Chevron. Then usually broke out the 2 cycle oil in the back of my truck and mixed some SuperTech at 40 to 50:1 ratio. Rather be slightly oil rich than too lean. That how I killed my very first saw ran too lean in oil and seized the conrod on the crank.

Something like that. 2 to 3 minutes roughly what I remember. Instant cancel if you reach above 20 MPH. But just firing up in a parking lot and idling to stay warm, yeah you taking the full time of the grid heaters.

If I remember right what @Me78569 said was 19 degrees.

If I remember right during a cruise state below 20% engine load it would top out at about 21 to 22 degrees. As for WOT runs I didn't log any of that.

Well, then I've had several. All the years of backing trailers on the woods getting firewood. All the time idling setting up to drag logs. Like yesterday if my truck was running again driving very slow up forestry roads looking for firewood. Below 20 MPH. True its not a life average either. Still I'm sitting here thinking al the times I've fired it up and left it idling is quite a bit. That what caused my last alternator to fail was the excessive amount of idling last winter with grid heaters banging away at the alternator burned the diodes out. I can think of lots of times it was started and left to idle.

More advanced timing, lower boost. More retarded timing high boost. Not the fuel in this cases. Stock ECM tune is heavily retarded hence the high boost pressure.

About like myself my Hybrid 35/40 turbo spikes out at 45 PSI tops and then settles at about 40-42 PSI at WOT throttle wire tapped. Now CANBus only its only about 32 PSI tops. In any case the cruise pressure is really low like I said about 2-3 PSI on flat ground. A couple of screen shots. No I don't display boost being 2002 for some reason are off. I use my ISSPro gauges more.

Just about right. At 65 MPH I'm typically about 2-3 PSI on flat ground. While your building your tune you want to keep an eye on the engine load. The more you can drop engine load the less fuel your burning. When you find a good timing you notice EGT's are lower and so is the engine load. Now the trick is when you drop cruise timing you want just enough retard timing to kick the boost back up to build and pull up the power and then get you back to the cruise timing quickly.

I agree the ground cable sound to be rotten and should be replaced most likely. I've seen cases where the cable broke in the middle and the vehicle would randomly start. Away to check this is to take a set of jumper cables and go from the negative post of the battery to the block if it starts better then the cables are damaged or shot.

Quadzilla is a clean tuner. We are consuming all the fuel and turning into power. Old canned tunes like Edge Comp or Edge Juice worked good with stock injectors but couldn't be cleaned up because of lack of timing control and fuel control. Quadzilla you can clean up 90% of the smoke with a good tune consuming all the fuel. Towing reasons. So I'm running tapped as a daily driver (level 4-7) but when I hitch up a trailer I turn down to level 3 which is strictly CANBus and then the EGT's are totally under control. Another reason is when road surface is slick be it ice or mud you can cut your power to prevent shocking the tires which might spin. So I would still tap the wire but use the iQuad app to control when you use the wiretap. It gets deeper. You can set how much TPS signal it takes to trigger wiretap. Then you can set how much boost is required to trip the wiretap. You can set how much wiretap to start with percentage number. Then how far up the boost scale to reach 100%. So you have full control over the wiretap and even my tune I can tune out the majority of the smoke.

Like I'm running a +75HP (7 x 0.0085) VCO injectors, HX35/40 hybrid turbo (60/60/12), with the Quadzilla Adrenaline. In level 3 (CANBus Only) I can hold the throttle to the floor and never reach 1,200*F EGT's. Towing I can reach it but takes a while to get hot. Now wiretap level 4th gear gets stupid it's possible to break the rear tires loose.

No way to bring it home since the road is a mess. No to mention its already been logged out. In the past I've done that quite a bit I use to take Mom's Chevy S-10 and a little Pullan saw and get anything I could from up there. Now the road is in horrid shape the land owner behind me won't maintain the road. It fairly dangerous now with a ATV.

In the beginning was 360 to 400 miles. Currently its 250 to 300 miles.

Wait to start light coming on? If not the ECM is not booting up and will not turn on either the lift pump or the VP44. Lift pump should be directly controlled by the ECM. The VP44 is turn on by the fuel pump relay in the PDC.

Just the cost of the Smarty and the recovery file which will most likely be more than entire rebuilt ECM. Again 1 shop hour at the dealer is about $120 I seriously doubt you'll be able to buy a Smarty S-03 and the recovery file for under $120. All you need to do is tow the truck to the dealer.