Mopar1973Man

This was a simple mod for me and cost less than the stock tires but watch this... 35 to 37 inch tires. Now the list of upgrades that you should do to handle the larger tires. Steering box brace to keep the stress off the output shaft from the larger tires. Heavy duty T steering to upgrade from the factory Y steering. Adjustable track bar if not upgrade to 3rd gen style track bar that is adjustable. Long control arms to correct the geometry of the front axle after the lift /leveling kit to fit the tires. Upgraded shocks and steering dampener help prevent death wobble common with most oversized tires. Upgraded steering gear box (Blue Top or Redhead in slow ratio to reduce stress on the steering box) 3rd Gen brakes to stop all that rotational mass of the larger tires. Axle gear change to get the final ratio corrected for oversized tires. (Final gear ratio 3.55 to 3.73 to the ground) Upgrade the transmission (Automatics) to hold up to the added stress that oversized tires produce on the transmission. Upgraded clutch (manual) same here might consider a dual disc to hold the torque demands. So I made one change from 265/75 R16 to 235/85 R16 dropped the aluminum wheels 16x8 for factory 16x7 steel wheels and tires cost me much less but all the front suspension lasted MUCH longer. 185k OEM ball joints 340k OEM tie rod ends 150k miles OEM track bar, 180k miles on NAPA track bar 340k Steering gear box. Upgrade to Blue Top because of rust issues. 180k OEM brakes 300k Rear caliper (rust issues) Still running... 16 years later and 341k miles on the clock. OEM Rotors OEM Power Steering pump OEM front Calipers Never had a death wobble issue. Just food to think on...

Now here is a video that is rather graphic of both a Red Vehicle and also being a Ford.

Too bad you not going to hang around long I could get so much done with 2 bodies on my truck.

2 cycle oil in the fuel for Injection pump life. 235/85 R16 tires for the front suspension life. Exhaust brake for brake life. Ground mod for the electrical and electronics performance. AirDog / FASS for injection pump life. ISSPro Gauges for warning protection.

We can do that... Start the thread and I'm sure everyone will jump in.

Your welcome...

Need to do either contact kit or brush kit in the starter. Properly charged A/C shouldn't cycle on a hot day. As for the 12V lift pump. http://www.torkteknology.com/technical-article-1-cummins-lift-pump/

There is so much stuff we could open up with that comment snip. Like the ground wire mod. Timbo's Apps. So many other modifications that should be done to these trucks to make them bulletproof and last forever.

Bosch alternator... http://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/bo13881/ Denso alternator... http://alternatorstarterrebuildkits.com/product/dpi/

Personally, I would just buy some air brake line and some rubber vacuum hose and make you own for much less and with better materials than factory.

We sell the Denso alternator diodes... This will give you a clue. Bosch diodes are soldered in.

Image is long gone. I don't even remember 8 years ago what it was a photo of... (CRS moment...)

Kind of like me and all my road travel, I've got two common tell-tales of goofy people. Any make of vehicle but red in color. Ford vehicles. The red vehicles typical drive super slow. I might be slow but come on these people are so slow it's pathetic. Now the Ford vehicle typically they are bit older and the owner drives super slow or pass you then slow down to crawl for no reason.

I am a freak don't you know...

Tough call... It might be a PITA but it might come down to that pulling each hinge one at a time and rebuilding.

Might be too much spring strength and the boost can't overcome the spring. You are hooked up correctly in on the red side and out in the blue side to the wastegate. Basically, the pressure has to overcome the spring and check ball to apply pressure to the wastegate. The hole is there to bleed off pressure after the pressure drop below your setting. I've got mine nearly all the way lose and the boost just barely hitting 40 PSI.

I've done a few older trucks by supporting the door and doing them on the truck. The problem is the hinge has to be separated so you can change the bushings. So this is not a single man job being these trucks have electrical in thee doors. The ones I did back in the 70's at most had just a speaker wire just chop that bad boy off and pull the door pins lift the door off. Our trucks are whole different story.

Stock HX35W turbo, +50 HP injectors, Edge Comp (5x3), Straight piped 3" exhaust. So far with the Quadzilla I've hit 22 MPG but the weather is still very cold in the morning hours which hurts the MPG's. Optimally 70-90*F weather is best and hitting at least 100*F IAT right off.

Yeah that's an 8 year old post. Might help to start a new post.

All winter long I really didn't do much to the truck but now spring come everything ignored from cold wet weather now is biting me now. Can't cry when I'm passing 341k and rolling.

Shortly after this my driver side door lower hinge spit the bottom bushing out. Crap. Time to get a door bushing kit.

Need to update you Quadzilla to the V2 series and solve the smoke issue.

...and smoking them out does? Sorry, I don't see your logic. If I'm already ahead of the foolish driver just stay there all your problems are literally behind you now. Trust me I'm on the road quite a bit these days and I can spot the idiot drivers quick and just use the wiretap I can overtake them and leave the problem drivers behind me. I driving 250 miles 3 days a week minimum (750 miles a week). I've not found a good reason to smoke anyone out other than it brings down more EPA laws on the diesel community. Now looking forward to 4th gens with all the junk that is for EPA equipment, not fun working on.

Man, I'm glad those days are behind me. Still roughly hitting 21-22 MPG... (735 to 770 miles to a tank) Full mark by ~100 miles. 3/4 mark by ~225 miles. 1/2 mark by ~350 miles. Typically filling back up by this point. Rare for me to run to the bottom of the tank. Too far between towns and most up here are getting upward of $3.409 and $3.509 per gallon for diesel.

Always love when guys talk manuls transmission they argue about how 6 speeds are needed because of the number of gears and application of torque. Then we get to automatics with mere 4 gears where the top two gears are the basically same ratio as the top two gear of the manuals. Then you have only two lower gear where the ratios are way different. Then you mix up torque converter stall RPM's and possibly oversized tires on top of 3.55 gear you get a soup pot full of issues. I see @Youngblood24v is at least stock tire size. I've got to ask how much time are you spending unlocked on the torque converter? Not an accurate temperature. There is no flowing ATF fluid there. Most likely not typically that temperature is lower. The hot line leaving the transmission to the cooler is typically the hottest. Kind of like measuring coolant temperature at the driver side radiator tank which will be close to the 190-195* but now open the radiator cap and measure the coolant on the passenger side it like 110-130*F at the most. Same thing is true for the transmission the pan will be the coolest spot after the cooler. Currently, my 46RE (Dynamic Transmission) in my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 has a clamp on Trans Temp probe on the hot line leaving the transmission. Yeah, I need to buy a bung and install the probe in the pan. So far my hottest temp I've ever seen is 190*F in downtown Boise traffic stop and go on about 110*F summer. Again measured at the hot line leaving the transmission.