
Everything posted by Mopar1973Man
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Quad installed!
Just wait... Let one of the power junkies hook you up with more... Get bit by the power bug and its a slippery slope you'll never get back up again. Like myself with +75HP injectors and that HX35/40 Hybrid turbo. It's crazy the amount of power over stock with a few mods and Quadzilla wiretapped.
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Transmission rebuilders (Firepunk or Dynamic)
Funny tidbit... @Dynamic disassembles my 46RE gets it in for being washed. Then he turns to me and says, "You know you get to put this all back together." My jaw hit the floor like "WHAT!" Very enjoyable time watching him build my transmission for me. To this day that 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 still runs like a crazed mule and shift super firm yet. I love it!
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Any guesses where it’s LEAKING????
From the driver side look up towards the back of the block and you'll be able to see the freeze plug back there. If your rotting out freeze plugs it might be a good idea to replace them all. Typically stems from people over using the coolant till its corrosive and the damage is done.
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Poor Fuel Mileage and Low Power
Passenger battery terminal. All ECM, PCM and VP44 ground is right there. Then if you want to get crazy and go for the ground mod. Cummins ISB does some weird math to figure boost pressure. So I wouldn't consider this too bad might be part of it still.
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Turbo options and opinions
Correct... But I could easily spin that 62/68/12. Trust me I got enough fuel for it. This little 60/60/12 literally snaps the boost needle to 45 PSI QUICK! I could use that 62/68/12 but the exhaust brake would be lost.
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Turbo options and opinions
I could easily spin that with my setup for sure being the boost gauge just bangs to 45 PSI of boost and wastegate pops and it will settle about 42 PSI and hold. HX35W rebuild a small warning which I've run across. Its possible to have an exhaust housing seized to the center section. Then my first rebuild I ended up breaking off all the bolts to the exhaust housing on my stock HX35. Now like my HX35/40 rebuild that came apart nice and rebuilt easy. Just make sure to get a return oil line gasket. So far seen two kits without that one gasket.
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Poor Fuel Mileage and Low Power
Time to do an AC noise test of the alternator. What is your fuel pressure like at idle and at highway speed WOT? I don't know the source of those VP44's and if they have been tested on a Bosch 815 test stand. The biggest thing is test for AC noise and see if the alternator is creating issues for the ECM or possibly damaged the ECM from excessive AC noise.
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Breather for valve cover?
The only problem I see with the valve cover breathers is the vapor coming back in the cab. Rotella and even some of the CK-4 oils now have a fairly strong oil odor when fresh. This why I made the mod to route the vapor behind the cab and not have to smell that oil vapor at every stop light. Adding excessive amounts of vents isn't going to change the performance other than mess later on. Years ago another member on CF created a vacuum vent system using the exhaust. Basically tapped in a one-way exhaust valve and the venturi effect pulled a light vacuum on the crankcase. The only problem there is the fact it would be possible pull oil into the exhaust pipe. Just better to aim it at the ground and let it vent. Keep your tubing short and rigid. Avoid using rubber hose it does get soft and kink very easy.
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P0122
Not a good sign though. If you have to do relearns of the APPS sensor all the time to gain a stable system that is a sign of AC noise issue on the ECM.
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bucking in drive and OD
Sensor is nothing but a coil wrapped around a magnet. As the tone wheel teeth pass by it creates a small AC voltage with a variable frequency which the ECM count the frequency of the sine wave and convert to as RPM gauge signal. Again here we are back to something possibly flooding the electrical system with more AC noise that is possibly fouling the tach signal. It still could be a simple wiring issue to the sensor. This is another reason I like to typically pull the field and the alternator fuse as well. The absolutely kills the entire alternator circuit and there is ZERO connection to the alternator.
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VP44
It must be some poor pissed of Ford owner turning over in his grave because your Cummins is still running.
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Performance
What's your fuel pressure? 12V Overflow valves are known issues.
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P0122
Do the diagnostics. This will help you.
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Breather for valve cover?
Sorry dann spell checker on my phone. Today is mobile day for me.
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Breather for valve cover?
Just make sure your vent cant kink shut. Nice way to blow the rapper cover gasket.
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Breather for valve cover?
If you have to vent that much you might consider doing a rebuild. I'm still running my vent mod and not blowing any oil out.
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VP44
No. Not required. All the puller is used for to pop the shaft out of the gear after that it can be removed. Typically I slide the shaft in and check with a mirror to make sure the key is lined up with the gear before tightening any nuts. Typically I will do the 4 mounting nuts first to draw it in the rest of the way and double check one more time with a mirror for the key alignment before placing the lock washer and nut on the shaft.
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VP44
Goes back to the whole problem... 1998.5 to 1999 do not report any error codes. 2000 to 2001 typically only report PCM codes. 2002 is the only year that reports both PCM and ECM. So why bother with a key trick system if only 1 year works... Just easier if everyone uses a code reader.
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bucking in drive and OD
I would ohm test the wires back to the ECM pin to pin. Also since we are dealing with AC waveforms with the tach signal I would suggest having the alternator tested for excessive AC noise as well. During the time its bucking you could pull over and unplug the field lead on the alternator and see if the bucking stops if so the alternator is to blame.
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VP44
Right here is why I ALWAYS suggest using OBDII scanner instead of the key trick.
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Quadzilla V2 Excel Tune Builder
I also don't think the output file is 2.7 ready either. @notlimah sent me a file and will not import to the Quadzilla 2.7.
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Returning back to a tapped VP44
Splitting out this thread...
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Intermittent idle surge-increase
Like mine went a whole 10 years before the OEM alternator failed. Now I can't keep an alternator unless I ditch the grid heaters.
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Engine ECM
Part number for that bolt is 05003621AA on the tappet cover. (Part number 32 on the page) https://mopar1973man.com/external-media/pdf/1999Ramparts.pdf#view=FitB&page=229
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Can you stop battery corrosion?
15 years later still look the same. I've never really had to clean the terminals at all. When I changed batteries back at 10 year I cleaned them but since then I've not touched them.