Mopar1973Man

As far as I know, there is no way to create a lope tune...

For sure that scanner isn't seeing both computers for some reason. Still could be a MAP sensor or CANBus problems. But it would do better to find out about that error code.

Just a change of plugins I would use that's all. The software meets current HTML5 and CSS3 requirements. Basically, we have a skeleton and just need to dress it. I just drop the "Forum plugin" for the "Pages plugin" that's all. Kind how I've got Prevail Web Managment there is no forum. Software based website is much easier for the owner to manage and less headache of keeping up with the code requirements and SEO requirement. This is why I like the Invison Power Community for the software. It cover every aspect a business would need. You can start small and grow into the software adding plugins as needed to meet your needs. https://invisioncommunity.com/ I'm pretty good at SEO being just M73M (Avg 9-11 position) and Smarty Resource (10-12 position)I've been cranking the score pretty good. The bad part is part of that is based on the age of the domain name so starting fresh there is a lot of other factors we must deal with to make it score well fast. Links from other sites and content must be text RICH. I'm a smaller website than the rest but able to take them on several different topics to the #1 placement on search. I've got at least 42 queries that I place in the number 1 spot out of 1,000. https://www.google.com/search?q=nv4500 hard to get into gear https://www.google.com/search?q=98-99 dodge hd steering I've done Google Adwords and Facebook so far and each has there place and bonuses. Google Adwords tends to hit a wider range of people where Facebook is good for younger folks.

My truck the box last 338k miles before needing the input seal replaced. The sad part is I can't do a seal kit because of the amount of rust and how tight the input cap is now. I sent my steering box back to @Blue-Top Steering as a Core. I'm not going to mess with it. Now since I did get to see the inside of the gearbox. After all those miles I've got ZERO wear on any parts. No sludge build up either. Very clean because of the 30k mile flush I would do. I've only adjusted a few times. Even when I remove the gearbox it was like driving a NEW truck back in 2002. The key here too long life of the steering box is two things. Fluid flushes every 30k miles. No oversized tires.

I've been running Quadzilla Adrenaline a full year untapped. Just leave the wire off and tune. I built my CANBus tune to reach 21 MPG in the dead of winter. No wiretap at all. Just strictly CANBus tuning.

Also makes for stable pressures from idle to WOT. Smaller the line size like 3/8" hose now the pressure starts dropping more. Stock lines are barely 6mm ID and even smaller in the banjo bolts. Really restrictive so the demand volume tends to outweigh the supply volume and pressure drops bad like 5-10 PSI.

Not a quality tuner. I would ditch that. If it creates errors on the CANBus it can create a dead pedal event if the values are out of range. I've seen two Banks tuners act really goofy and weird creating all kind of strange things. Unhook then no problem ran fine. Hook them up and dead pedal, limit power on the top end. Unhook and back to running strong. My last pump lasted till 243k miles till the timing piston jammed full advanced and threw the P0216 code. Limped home at 20-30 MPH just knocking like 6 mechanical trying to beat there way out with a 6-pound sledgehammer. Keep going...

I was just thinking the same thing that he should get away from the smarty S-03 tuning and move over to either Smarty UDC or Quadzilla to control fuel to boost numbers. That is one thing a Smarty S-03 is kind of short in is fuel control for big injectors. Bingo. Not only that you don't need a PC and do all your tuning on your mobile device. I'm currently sitting on a Smarty Touch. But Can't really use it till I find a Windows PC. The Canned S-03 tune will be smokey and timing map will be all wrong. Being Smarty UDC doesn't work on Linux I'm stuck till I can get a Windows PC just to be able to tune this Smarty. Till then the Quadzilla Adrenaline does it all without a PC and has 3 times the power of a Smarty Touch on a 24V Cummins.

Yes. If you are not using a lube in your fuel the lifespan typically is about 100-150k miles and pump typically wears out. This could be an injector dropping pop pressure or air being drawn into the fuel. I would vote for air in the fuel possibly or maybe on a reach... Maybe valve lash before jumping towards that VP44. After all this I would look towards the injectors acting goofy. Bosch RV275 don't mean that they all popped the same and flow the same. Could have one popping low. If all this checks out you could try the pump but it don't sound like VP44 time for me it still starts and runs. Typically when a pump goes they don't run or barely run. Mine would barely run and only drive 20-30 MPH WOT with heavy/nasty timing knock.

If you want I'm managing a few websites now. I'd be glad to support your venture. http://prevailwebmanagement.com/clients.htm/ I'm at $719 a year ($59.85 per month) for quality hosting. I'm running 2 Cores, 4 GB or RAM, 90 GB of hard drive and 3 TB of bandwidth. Shared hosting is very limited but OK for a startup operation. The problem is most of them limit connections to 100 total. Most servers are too small to handle traffic loads. I'm currently racking 500-600 (Max 750) connections per minute here.

Go for the full 1/2" lines. 3/8" tend to see a bit more pressure up and down changes between idle to WOT. I rarely see more than 3 PSI from idle to WOT!

Opps... I guess the thread I pulled on DieselBombers has a conflict of info. I would follow Vulcan Performance.

No. http://www.vulcanperformance.com/Universal-Big-Line-Filter-to-Injection-Pump-Kit-w-p/ffip59.htm

Adapter 06JIC X M12 with seal. Threads are 12mm X 1.5 TPI.

Enuf said... I kept my stock filter housing and still use it. You'll need to get a big line kit between the stock filter and injection pump.

Signs of low compression. I would do a compression test. Another is slow starter which can create the same problem. I pulled my grid heater in the middle of winter and been starting with average temperatures in 20's no issues.

MAP sensor has nothing to do with Idle. You can be missing the MAP sensor and it will still idle fine.

First time I did injector work I created a nasty random miss. No external leak and a random hard start. After talking to some of the guys found out I installed then wrong. So I re-did my install exactly the way I was told basically install and tighten the crossover and then tighten the injector hold down. Now I got a good seal on the crossover tube. Before the injector was clamped in the head BEFORE the crossover tube was tightened so the injector won't self-align to the crossover tube so there is a poor seal between the crossover tube and the injector and the leak is just blown in the return rail back to the tank.

Sound like you got a possible boost fooler issue then you need to head towards that Quadzilla soon. As for testing the MAP circuit in a nutshell. Unhook both end MAP sensor and the ECM. Now ohm test from end to end. A passing grade is <5 ohms. Leaving both unhooked now go from pin to GROUND. A passing grade is infinite ohms. Hook up the ECM lead turn the ignition ON engine off test the 5V pin. Make sure you got 5.00V present on that pin. Leave your current boost fooler out of the circuit and just hook up your MAP sensor. Clear all your error code go for drive. If no codes are thrown then that circuit is good you should be able to reach 19-20 PSI of boost without a boost fooler and possible rise slightly pass and feel the defuel kick in without codes. I typically still reach 23-25 PSI without codes but it dog out above 20 PSI for me and struggles to build more boost. This is normal.

Possible Causes Other DTCs Boost Pressure Sensor 5-volt Supply Circuit MAP Signal Circuit Short To Ground MAP Signal Circuit Short To Sensor Ground MAP Sensor Intermittent Wiring Problem ECM No listing of a turbo there. So you need to go over the P0237 code diagnostic carefully. Basically if the MAP sensor is throwing the P0237 its in LIMP MODE. The ECM can no longer detect boost pressure so the turbo will not spool.

I just cap off the turbo lay some pressure to the air system. Then soap down the system looking for bubbles.

I normally tighten / snug my crossover tubes FIRST then tighten my injectors hold downs.

@Me78569 could... Mine never was right.

My bad... I did my post off my phone and didn't pay attention to the sig... My bad...