Mopar1973Man

Just like changing the final gears in the axle from 3.55 to 3.00 it just going to make the engine struggle more. Being your the engine twisting the steering wheel and power steering pump assisting which will turn into more heat. High ratio might take more turns but reduces all the stress on the steering box and pump. This is why I'm still running the factory OEM pump and steering box yet.

Don't do that. Call Blue Top steering talk to Ryan. Get a kit from him and rebuild it yourself. Super easy and way cheaper! I'm going to be doing a rebuild this spring when I can park the Cummins and drive the gasser. I've already talked to Ryan once already and the kit is like $40-50 bucks with the output shaft bearing IIRC. I'll tell you don't change the ratio on the box. Big mistake, leave it alone. Worse yet I've seen guys struggle with small ratio boxes and oversized tires and wonder why they keep breaking stuff. Leave the high ratio box there less stress on the box and easier to turn the tires without excessive stress.

Average 18-21 MPG currently. Currently 336k miles on the clock. Currently due for oil change. My MPG number should start to rise again. I realized that as my tie rod ends were getting sloppy my engine load was rising slowly without me knowing. Now after the tie rod ends have been replaced and the front end re-aligned I've noticed the engine load is down nearly 2-3% on average. The truck drives like a sports car again.

Congrads to you Nick for the new truck... Now you should be able to make it out here and do a camp out...

Imctrying to clear out any data logs and fuel mileage logs and the clear button is broke. Hit it once scroll the screen the data is back. Return to the main screen the mpg data is back.

I would get that system flushed out. All the seals are not designed for ATF. Again the ATF used in 2003 and up because Dodge started using Ford steering boxes. Every thing from 2002 and back is all power steering fluid. Knocking I would pull the vacuum pump and power steering pump again and inspect everything from the gear to pump shaft.

I've got to admit I screwed up... I was trying to cheat and change out the parts with the truck parked straight in the shop and mount the parts without disturbing the toe. Sad part was it ate the front tires up pretty good after 2 trips to Ontario, OR. I noticed when I was installing the new steering dampener. I hate to see the angle I had before. I asked MoparMom to hold the tape measure found out I was toed out pretty good. I readjust the toe to using a standard tape measure. Lesson learned... Take the time and at least measure in your new parts and then find an alignment shop. I got lucky and they were having a sale on it and it only cost me $32 for the alignment and took about 45 minutes. Now it drives like a sports car. Super tight steering, ZERO slop, and very reactive.

A little trick to try. Pull the coolant sensor and trip a coolant code. Then plug it back in and check the codes again. I've seen this rarely where there is a pending code but the dash show something there but it like the ECM/PCM don't want to spit it out.

I did...

Ok, I've got the new version of the software up and running I'll be testing it out today on my way down to Ontario, OR. I've notice the connection time is much shorter the few times I've watched. I did have a refused connection once. I had to shut down both the truck and the iQuad to start over and get it to hook up. @Quadzilla Power already knows about the monster gear issue. (PM sent). We'll see in normal real time driving in the city if the hang up with shut down in the middle of the loading the tune.

Wrong fluid. ATF+4 will cause seal issues. ATF+4 was only used on 2003 and up Dodge Ram trucks. This is because the steering box is a Ford Steering box. Power steering fluid. Sagnaw steering boxes need power steering fluid.

Most likely there are no codes to be picked up.

All my accessories are to the BATT stud in the PDC. Remember not to wire anything to ALT stud before the fuse. That is a good way to fry stuff when the alternator fuse blows it will jump up in voltage and fry anything hooked up there.

Another way to buy an OBDLink diagnostic tool you can use it on your phone. http://www.obdlink.com/

Two separate issues. The APPS sensor is going below the minimum voltage level and tripping the code. The P1688 is a PSG electronics failure of the VP44. VP44 has zero to do with the APPS sensor and visa versa.

Seriously rather odd to see the tip of the injection line sheared off. Like you said Dave your isolator block was missing back there.

Test your alternator for excessive AC noise. 99% of electronics failures are from excessive AC noise.

Even my 46RE that I had @Dynamic build for my 1996 Dodge 1500 is way beyond a shift kit. There is more than just a valve body. Yes Jon modified the valve body by drill out particular ports changing the shift. Then changing up springs to change shift points slightly. Adding oil ports in the body of the transmission keeping the clutches cooled. You narrowly focus on just a shift kit when there is the entire upgrade that makes it all worth it.

I've heard of stories where people didn't get the power steering and vacuum pump lined up and creates knocking noise because either it breaks the vacuum pump or breaks the power steering pump coupling.

Might look at the Quadzilla tunes we've got... https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/

@dripley Too much Edge Comp 5x5 and driving around with a heavy foot eh?

The biggest thing you need to flush all that out of the system if any of that debris plugs holes up in the steering box or hydrobooster it will cause all kinds of issues. I'd never do that. I would mount the vacuum pump. Then mount the power steering pump to the vacuum pump. Way too much weight and hose pulling the alignment of both device and making it impossible to install.

Being I got you the deal on it.

Sure is every time the grid heaters drop there massive load of 95 Amp load on the alternator the PCM is ramping up the field voltage to keep the batteries up so you see the alternator charging against the massive load of the grid heaters. Again now the grid heater cycle has ended and this is normal AC noise level. This is one of the few reasons we are disconnecting the grid heaters. Go through the process and double check the wiring. Lucky... So I would keep that in mind. Weakness? Maybe...