Mopar1973Man

No. Normal operation for me. You might look at the live data for the ECT and IAT temperatures.

That's a 235/85 R16... Same only 1mm taller than the 265 but 1.1 inches narrower. 245/75 R16 is a 1 inch shorter where the 285 is 1 inch taller.

Try uninstalling the app and reinstalling. It might straighten out the corrupt data you've got.

@JAG1 pm me Ive got a great one wire kill for your truck. It will never start. I promise.

I get 1k to 1.5k before its black. Roughly. But I've been good about 6k to 7k oil changes. Every 1.5 months.

Weird you mention soot level vs exhaust brake. Being the original document suggested using the exhaust brake for warm up. I tend to agree that it seems to increase soot. Ill watch on my next oil change how quick I darken the oil without the exhaust brake.

I ran across a new article on Daily Mail with MoparMom where they explain how easy it is to buy fob blanks and the programming tools to produce your own key fobs. The example they show is stealing a Ford vehicle in under 2 minutes without breaking anything on the vehicle. Basically, the device will tell the vehicle to forget the previous key fob and use the new key fob provided for entry. A person can do the in a normal parking lot in daylight because you just pressing a few buttons on a device and the door is unlocked and you can start the vehicle without any tools or breaking anything. No one is any wiser about the theft. This is becoming a problem where Amazon and eBay are selling the device to hack the security of the vehicle for $100 to $200 and you can use it as many times as you wish.

I would replace an ignition switch way before it got that bad.

Going to 285's is pushing the gear ratio lower to 3.44 from 3.55. This adds more torque trapping to the transmission and EGT's temperatures. Just showing the effect of 1mm change of tire height 235's is 1 mm taller than 265's tire that changes the 3.55 gears to 3.54 gears. Changing to the other stock (labeled tire) 245/75 R16 with push the ratio up to 3.69. Small tire changes can make a big change in the final gear ratio.

Exactly what I did this last winter. When the mornings where cold I would plug in the truck when I got up in the morning by the time I got coffee and dressed for the day the truck was warmed up good. Started without a hitch. Remember the larger industrial Cummins don't even have grid heaters or glow plugs in some applications. Only the 2nd Gen with there crappy 16.3:1 compression ratio. I can start down in the 20's without grid heaters but that engine is not happy for the first 10 seconds. My typical startup. I fire the truck up hit the exhaust brake. This drives the EGT's above the shutdown limit of the Quadzilla (275*F) and I can remove the key from the ignition. Now while @MoparMom is getting ready for leaving the truck will idle up 1,200 RPM on the Quadzilla and warm up to 140*F and drop. After 5 minutes the engine just shuts down if we are not ready. Either way the engine has had some warmup time its above 140*F at least. and Ready for the day.

Not a problem you can shave 2 degrees off your tune if you have a Quadzilla.

235/85 R16 and 265/75 R16 are the same size 31 inch tires. 245/75 R16 is a bit smaller it will be 26 rev/mile more than 235's. Plus it will increase the final gear ratio to around 3.73 at the ground. This makes the truck quicker and reduces EGT's and mild increase to MPG.

If it wasn't for the exhaust brake I would jump for sure into a Borg Warner or something bigger. If my wallet was loaded with cash I'd love to have a custom made turbo that kept my exhaust brake but using more common sizes like the 62/68/12.

Agreed. Separate the transfer case and the transmission. Much easier. I did my 1996 Dodge 46RE with jack stands for that vertical clearance as well. I used nothing more than ratchet strap and a floor jack at the end. Took a bit more than 2 hours by myself to install. I typically use a 2x6 and a bottle jack and lightly spread the frame. Both my trucks are so tight I can even move the cross member with a sledgehammer. So just getting a bit of tension off the cross member I can lift it off the saddle and slide it out.

I tend to agree but the VP44 is capable of so much more being its factors in several things that VE can't. VE has a simple intake temp solenoid to give advancement in the cold start conditions. The values below can be worked up in a way better timing table. Fuel Temperature IAT Temperature Coolant Temperature P-Pump was static timing, no adjustment for anything. This was another factor for the P-pump lifespan and why it was drop so quickly. The 1996 OBDII law kicked in and forced Cummins / Dodge to switch up to the VP44 to meet that requirement. My personal best with my truck is 27.2 MPG hand math. Edge Comp, +50 HP injectors, HX35W turbo and stock 3 inch exhaust. Absolutely. Everyone I watch convert a 24V over to a P-pump the first thing they whine about is the MPG's dropping lower than the VP44 did in stock form. I will admit the P-pump will pump more fuel and preferred by racing folks but still in all daily drive converted 24V will never be able to catch the mid 20's for MPG's. Never happen. That change also went on to the 3rd Gen where they also change the exhaust lobe to create an in-cylinder EGR event. It true that 24V mileage is reduced compared to a stock 6BT engine. 24V 2nd Gen was the starting edge of the emission standards and we got hit with a few mild things. Nothing too bad.

I would suggest going back to stock size or smaller. 338k miles on the factory OEM tierod ends, 185k miles on ball joints, steering box 340k miles still could of reused it but I damaged the cap threads. Like I just got a bid for my 1996 Dodge and be getting 245/75 R16 for around $600. My last batch of Hankook ATm 235/85 R16 I paid around $700 for the set. So big tire look cool but do more damage to the front suspension and steering and tires cost much more.

Smaller the exhaust housing the quicker the spool but also caps out the maximum boost you can produce. So larger exhaust housing like HX35 at 12cm 2 or like some custom turbos that have 14cm2 will allow for more boost but the turbo lag increases. Just think the H1C turbo off the 1st Gen Cummins is a 21cm2 exhaust housing without a wastegate.

I'm currently running Hankook ATm tires 235/85 R16 on the Cummins. I got roughly 60k miles on the last batch of tires with mostly highway miles. As for the two you've listed I've not had any experience with them at all.

Dollar price vs HP gained yes Quadzilla has Smarty hands down. Quadzilla has cooldown timer for turbo cool down. Smarty - none. Quadzilla has wiretap abilities for VP44 fuel trucks. Smarty - Designed more so for Common Rail (210 HP) not VP44 (60 HP Canbus only fuel). Quadzilla provides EGT probe for free. Fuel pressure sensor is optional. Smarty - Not supplied with EGT probe.

Yes. Like I said you can start with a tune that fits close and then tweak it to fit your needs. We'll be glad to help you out on tuning and give you some guidance.

Smarty UDC Yes... With Smarty typically tunes come at a price. I've heard some can charge as much as $300. (Heresay... Down the grapevine) Quadzilla No... You can start out with some the of the tune in the download area. All the tunes are free. https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/22-quadzilla-standard-tunes/

Quadzilla Adrenaline you end up back here for most of the technical stuff. Between @Me78569 and @Quadzilla Power you get all your answers. As for Smarty resource UDC you end up over here... (Talk to Brian) https://smartyresource.com/forums/

The only two choices you've got that give you tune capability is Smarty Touch UDC (60 HP) or Quadzilla Adrenaline (180 HP). I ended up with the smarty touch to attempt to up them build articles for there website. My problem is I don't own a Windows PC and the software doesn't work in VirtualBox so I'm not capable of making tunes yet for Smarty. As for the Quadzilla you just need a mobile device and build your tune right there on your cellphone or tablet no PC required (except to flash firmware updates). As for me its taken me quite awhile to get a grasp of how timing and fuel control work. In a nutshell more fuel more timing is required to go from an atomized spray, heat to vapor, to BANG. This also changes with IAT temperature and cetane level of the fuel. Like all winter I was running a cruise timing of barely 18 degrees because of the excessive cetane in the local fuel which still gave me 20-21 MPG on the bit cold days. Now cetane is down, IAT is coming up, I'm adding 2 cycle oil more (cetane down a bit more), then cranking up the timing more. Hence my 20 degree cruise timing now. Still floating 19-20 MPG. Still want to aim higher on the MPG numbers, and I will! I know as timing is advance more of the fire is in the cylinder and EGT's and boost fall. You'll notice more coolant temperature and lower engine load when optimal. Fueling wise you need to find out how much fuel you need to spin the turbo on CANBus alone. Then you can add the wiretap in a control state. Like I've got 1,200 to 2,200us worth of wiretap pulse to play with I'm only using 1,400us second right now and it only slightly smoky when I jump on the throttle. Again none of this is possible with a canned tune like Smarty or TST. That was a limitation of the past. No longer...

I still feel part of the problem is lack of control of fueling and timing. Smarty is not giving the timing you need for 110 HP injectors which should be advanced even more on the top end. The bottom end should be retarded some to allow for building of boost. The problem is Smarty is designed for stock injectors so the timing map is totally wrong. Then your using both TST and Smarty for a fueling map and again both boxes are design on stock injectors where you fueling most likely too heavy because neither box is designed for 110 HP injectors. I've got 75 HP injectors (7 x 0.0085) with an HX35/40 Hybrid (60/60/12) and can control my EGT's fairly well. I'm going to step up to (7 x 0.009) injectors soon and push the pop pressure up to 315-320 bar to clean them up. As for my current tune I start out defueled with limit of 80% fuel which I don't cross 100% till 10 PSI of boost. My starting timing I'm at 13 degrees in the 1,500 RPM which gives my all the spool I need after that I step up to 17 degrees at 2,000 RPM and +3 degree of cruise timing giving me 20 degrees at cruising state. Again none of this tuning can be done with your current stack and both boxes are not designed for anything more than stock. Kind like why I've got a Smarty touch sitting on my desk but I can't use it till I can get a Windows PC to redo the tune to fit my injector and timing requirements.

Welcome to the website. The one to talk for sure is @W-T the ground wire guru. There is a few others that done the ground wire mod as well. @dripley shame on you. You told me last night you did the ground wire mod and worked good for you. You are not going to share with the newbie here.