Mopar1973Man

Actually need to reduce the load on the diodes what we are figuring out. Why is it that trucks like my own make 10 years or more without an alternator issue then can't hold an alternator for more than a 4 month to a year and bam the alternator is back out again? So I'm testing now by ditching the grid heaters for now and see if the problem is gone. If so then I'm going to look into replacing my grid heater and solenoids I think that grid heater draw more current as they age. (Theory...)

Your taste... That's all. Most people don't know what the differences are between the EV's and EV2's. Everyone just assumes there both gauges which is true but the EV2's come with much more but none of the vendors tend to advertise the USB programming, USB cable or the Relay kits so people just walk away from the gauge because of the high price not knowing what they are capable of doing.

Reason, why they are cheaper, is because the EV's are not programmable. Take a peek at the programming you can do. Then there is a optional programmable relay you can stack on the gauge. For example you want to turn on aux fan for the transmission cooler using your transmission temperature. No problem program the gauge and it will do the work for you. Like myself I've programmed the warning light for my set limits so the fuel pressure comes on at 13 PSI and lower. Then you can calibrate the brightness of the illumination of the gauge to your dash in the programming.

Typically a SO pump makes roughly 600 HP so I would say that HO would be right behind it somewhere.

I love that feature. Basically, park your truck and leave it on level 1. Set the power for that level to 20%. Now the truck barely drives about 20-25 MPH top speed and struggles to do it. Quadzilla (180 HP $743.00) - $4.12 per horsepower Edge Comp (120 HP $600.00) - $5.00 per horsepower Edge Juice CTS (180 HP $1,000.00) - $5.55 per horsepower XZT (60 HP $358.00) - $5.96 per horsepower Edge EZ (60 HP $430.00) - $7.16 per horsepower Smarty (60 HP $649.00) - $10.81 per horsepower Smarty Touch (60 HP $865.00) - $14.41 per horsepower BOLD - Custom tunable Here is the break down of the common tuners and the prices from the manufacturer. The two in bold are custom tuneable where the rest are canned tunes and you must accept it as is nothing can be changed about the tuning. As you'll see I broke it down into price per horsepower. Then from the least expensive price per HP to the most going down. I know some people will argue the Smarty Touch yes it does produce way more HP but on the 2003 and up Common Rail engine. For our 24V trucks it's only a 60 HP tuner because it got no ability to wire tap making it the most expensive per HP.

Done on the internal code that we cannot edit.

You are actually good till 12,000km (7,500 miles) that is stock service interval from the owners manual. 4 Liters is quite a of oil to be down. The range between full and add is about 2 liters. Basically, you need two things good strong compression and fine atomized fuel to start in the cold. If your short on one or both then starting becomes a challenge. I would have to say most likely the injectors being the mileage. Then your blow by is not venting large amounts or blowing oil out so I would hold to the thought of injectors just being worn out.

Well low oil will cause excessive ring wear and then create the blow by. Typically excessive blow by will push oil out the vent tube. Good example of excessive blow by.

I'm looking at the fact the warmth is the factor. It like your compression is lower why I asked about the blow by. It could be the injectors are getting pissy and the droplets are just to big to ignite in the extreme cold. With 229k miles if those injectors are stock they very well could be wore out.

How many miles on the truck? How much blowby do you see from the crankcase vent are you venting oil too?

I'll have to check that out. Thanks @Me78569 ...

That's one thing I never liked about some of the tuners like Edge Juice and Quadzilla the gauges are included but at least Quad works without the gauges. I've always had stand-alone gauges. If I don't want to pack my cell phone I don't have to the Quadzilla still functions without a screen present. Now Edge Juice will not function without a screen present and very visible to a thief you've got a tuner. This gives my truck the kind of "stealth look" there is no tuner visible in the cab and less likely to be broken into because it looks like a stock truck with gauges that's all.

I think currently the Quadzilla will idle for 5 minutes after the key off and then shut down if the EGt limit can't be reached. I currently do a similar tweak is to set my EGT limit for 300*F and then leave my exhaust brake on. The keys can be removed and the truck will run on for 5 minutes. After that 5 minutes runs out Quadzilla shuts down.

I really don't like them. When you had the time to custom tune like I've now got the grip off now. You don't want to go back to canned tune. Even my truck is not designed around racing at all. It completely designed around efficiency and longevity. So like my Economy tune is very very mild and ramps up slower and is smoke-free and the timing is set for optimal efficiency. Now like the old Edge Comp I had was OK. It did great for power and performance. But sucked for efficiency. Again comes back to the lack of control for fuel and timing. So you had to limit yourself back to stock or RV275 injectors to keep the MPG up and smoke down. That where my MPG switch came from was learning that the timing was over-advanced in the dead of winter killing the MPG number. Now my current tune compensates for that problem. So like I'm currently running the Quadzilla Adrenaline without a wire tap. I've been tuning for the entire year now without a wire tap just to make the best CANBus tune I could like the XZT but it will be much better when done.

I just installed a FASS 150 last year. Trust me the FASS 100 and FASS 150 are still that big. They haven't got any smaller. Also, you are right the Titanium is not pictured. Yes, the filters hang way down in the blowing cold and damage path. Back years ago people got smart and mounting FASS and AirDog both in better places. I've seen several good installs where people tucked FASS in the void of the rear box which gave it really good protection from the blowing cold and small piece of metal or plastic to extend the fender on the front side. Now people just don't care just bolt it on and consider it good till problems occur. Like my example of that truck in New Meadows, ID with the gelling problem every winter. I admit I hung it the only way I could because the truck has a flatbed and utility box on the driver side. Still in all the filters are in the damage path and hanging in the blowing cold and still gell up every winter where I've never gelled up even once yet. Then again I've seen rancher with FASS hung in the typical location and tear up filters because the hung below the level of the frame. Just be going over a water bar and sink into the mud and swipe off the filters hanging down. Little steel box won't do much with 8,000-pound truck smashing the filter into the ground. I've seen even Raptor's that taken a good beating from a tree llimb that was driven over and whipped up and trashed the pump. So its not exactly a non-issue. Location and mounting does play a huge role in if you are going to have issues with gelling or filter damage.

Very possible the fact you attempted to run the new APPS sensor without calibration would cause this issue.

That's the problem right there. I ran around forever trying to find 75w-90 without GL-5. 75w-90 GL-4 does not exist around here.

Let us know.

No not really. You need to do it again and then proceed to do the throttle movement to program the ECM the limits of the APPS sensor. Disconnecting the batteries does not reset anything else including error codes. The ECM can hold information for over 10 years and still retain the error codes without power/batteries for that long.

Basically stock was 75w-80 for viscosity and the GL-4 rating. The 50 SAE I run is more like 90 weight oil. Thicker but no issues. The big thing is GL-4 rating more than anything.

Ok then do me another thing. Do a APPS reset.

No fair... Chicken Man will be basting in his own juices.

Any of the Synthetic 50w SAE GL-4 is fine. I'm closing in on the 100k miles on the Delvac no issues to report as of yet. Now I know that AMSOil has a flavor of Synthetic Oil for the NV4500 I know @AH64ID would know. 75w-90 gear lube is also fine ONLY if its GL-4. If its GL-5 it will wipe out the carbon fiber syncros.

Added the subtitles to see my function I'm doing. As you notice on the last video I was nearly stopped before I placed my foot on the brake pedal. I almost never touch that darn pedal and never press on very hard either. Exhaust brake does at least 80% of my stopping. Unless there is a panic stop or emergency stop the service brakes are up for the task because I've been using the exhaust brake for the majority of my speed control.

Just unplugging the APPS will force the ECM to control the idle for the VP44. Why spend someone money if they don't need the part?