Mopar1973Man

Pump does run @JAG1 . If here jumps the relay socket. So this still points back to an ECM failure of the pump circuit. You could wire up a toggle switch for the temporary fix but I do not suggest that. to easy to forget to turn it on or leave it on and create issues. Not to mention safety issue of the fuel pump continuing to pump if you are in an accident. Like I said a toggle switch or wiring to the keyed side of the ignition switch is a temporary fix at best. We do have a ECM/PCM rebuilder list on the site so you can get your ECM repaired.

Really? You are going to move forward to 4th Gen?

Any error codes? Might give a clue as well to something that might not be plugged in fully?

Don't mind the two jokers here. It typical every acts like one big happy family here. So make sure to ask plenty of questions and there is no such thing as a dumb question here. Dave and Michael have been tagging each other for years. Being Dave is our Chick Fil A man building these stores and Michael happens to be in construction as well. So you can see good ol' family bantering back and forth...

Boost and fuel pressure. The reason also is if i have to test either gauge I can hook a tee and second gauge for testing. Much easier than digging at the VP44 or the back of the head. Right there easy access.

Sounds like there is ECM issue delivering power to the relay.

Time to buy a 4th gen truck like @TFaoro.

Should... I'm a Android user (LG G5 Android). No experience with iPhones...

No, import to the iQuad App that's all. So you can load as many tunes as you wish.

Here is the rebuild article...

Just like he doesn't have a complete dash anymore. I was hoping he was trying to fix it up some and make it nice. Even after slamming the bed into a tree.

Here you go... As can see the blue wire is +12V key hot and the green is the variable ground. Charging systems are super simple and these Dodge trucks.

Doesn't mean you need to add it every single tank. Also remember PowerService is 400:1 ratio so for 35 gallons of fuel your adding 11.2 ounces. Now, remember as cetane rises BTU's fall so the unneeded use of or overtreating the fuel will degrade MPG number greatly. Gasoline is just below the 120k BTU mark. The ASTM Labs States... The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability." Quite the balancing act you have to do right?

Even the youtube I post tells the same thing the batteries will suppress some of the AC noise like a capacity but the problem remains that the AC noise still runs down the rest of the electrical system. The whole problem is the diodes overheat and fail and then the AC noise is started. How do we prevent the diodes from overheating when your dropping 95A or 190A load against an idling alternator? Rather a tough problem. But I still have a hard time thinking back why did my truck run fine for over 10 years and never replace an alternator in 10 years? Something has changed... That's the problem I can't prove the load issue on the grid heater right at this moment nor the diode overheat issue. Can't tell me every reman'ed alternator is junk too. Kind of like my ABS light issue can't tell me changing 3 sets of sensors and still got the light on means the sensors are bad. Something has changed. (Wheel bearing failed / tone ring failure)

I know both @Me78569 and myself both have daily driver tunes. Like the difference is mine build more for lower altitude and high cetane winter fuel. I know Me78569 is using larger injectors and VGT turbo. This tune I'm managed to reach 21.06 MPG. This is NOT a RACE or PERFORMANCE tune. This is Daily Driver Economy Tune. Timing tables are designed around winter cold conditions of Idaho and you'll notice they are on the retarded side. This is to compensate for the high cetane fuel which typically the ECMramps up timing more with IAT below 80*F. There is no wire tap tune here this tune is designed strictly for LEVEL 3 usage. Fuel table is designed around my +75HP (7x0.0085 DAP injectors) where it starts at 90% and ramps to 120% no more. As for the cruise timing limit you need to leave this at 25% raising the cruise to attempt hold above 65 MPH will create a loss or negative torque to occur. Typically at 65 MPH I float 22-24% engine load on flat ground. Even at 80 MPH it will flip-flop back and forth between cruise timing and performance which is normal. This tune also assumes that no oversized tires modifications that might impact final gearing which will impact the engine load number making the tune worthless. This tune is setup for those at very high altitude. still has good power, with good wiretap. Higher timing up top and full canbus duration by ~20 psi wiretap starts coming in at 10 psi

We have the vacuum pump rebuild kit in stock in the store. As for the heat only out the vents that because of a loose vacuum line or broke vacuum line.

No need for it. I have studied my local fuel and know the pour point of my local fuel. I'm the only owner of my truck and 330k miles and never had even one time to gel up my fuel. I was very picky and fussy about fuel line placement and keeping the cold air off the fuel system to keep the fuel heat up. I've still got my stock fuel heater / fuel filter then I know the fuel returned from the engine will always be a bit warmer. Like I said I've been down to -35*F without a single issue no cetane booster and no anti-gel used ever... I've done the study work on 2 cycle oil in diesel fuel I can tell you that snowmobile 2 cycle oil has a much lower pour point (-50*F) than normal #2 winterized diesel (-20*F). I've been using strictly only 2 cycle oil for nearly 10 years and my last VP44 made it to 243k miles ALMOST a quarter of a million miles. Not bad in my book. Cetane booster tend to rob you of the BTU value of the fuel so the higher the cetane goes the lower the energy content. Another reason I use 2 cycle oil because it's a natural BTU increaser and cetane reducer. That leads me into my findings with the Quadzilla tuning. The only thing that the ECM can measure is cetane value. Being cetane naturally advances timing I started retarding timing in my tune and now in the 21 MPG bracket in the dead of winter with temperatures around 0 to 30*F. So understanding fuel chemistry helps a bunch.

Check the Green wire from the alternator to the PCM if its shorted out to ground it will continue to overcharge. The Blue wire is +12V key hot so the green is variable ground if it shorts to ground its a runaway alternator just like you are experiencing.

Here you go an article on DodgeRam.Org yeah I know its for the 12V but the system is just the same. http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/troubleshooting/Maniford_htr.htm Intake Temp Heater Cycle time Heat after Engine is Running Above 59°F, 15°C None No 15°F to 59°F -10°C to 15°C 10 Seconds Yes 0°F to 15°F -18°C to -10°C 15 Seconds Yes Below 0°F, -18°C 30 Seconds Yes

Need some center caps now for those 3rd gen wheels.

@JAG1 brings the fact it very possible the grid heater does wear out and create the alternator issues.

Grid heater... 1 element is 95 Amps 2 elements is 190 Amps So you better have a big meter or magnetic flux amp meter. Most likely buried by another call if it just rings most likely what happen. Cell phone number doesn't work at home but my Cell Wifi number does.

Might have had water that froze up or fuel gelling issue. With your sump on your fuel tank it's super cooling the fuel. Then the exposed fuel line to the blowing cold can freeze water or gell fuel rapidly. Like with my setup my fuel lines are on the top of the fuel tank then run inside the frame as much as possible. My AirDog 150 is behind the transfer case and out of the cold wind. I've been down to -35*F without an issue at all. I NEVER use any anti-gel products or cetane boosters at all. I've seen a local gent with a FASS in the standard outside the frame mounting it gels up every winter now. The filters hang down in the damage path of the front tires so all the snow and ice is slung on the filters causing the gel issue. Behaves the same way rung good till the fuel hits that gel point and down she goes. Way too much fuel line exposed to the cold wind...

I've used air brake line for quite awhile and rare for me to get over 140*F fuel temp.

I did some serious thinking on this and we keep going back to how to filter the AC noise. We are not resolving the alternator failure issue. I'm starting to wonder if the age of the grid heater it starts to lose impedance and becomes more like a short as age comes on and the current load rises more with age. Because I look back and my truck ran for over 10 years without an alternator issue now I've blown 6 alternators in little over 2 years. My last alternator I installed I unhooked my grid heaters and see if the problem returns at all. The simple fact is excessive electrical loads is causing the diodes to overheat and fail. But for whatever reason we keep swinging back around to attempting to filter to AC noise. This is not a solution. Need to figure out what is causing the alternators to fail. I'm really starting to wonder if the grid heaters wear out and draw higher current as they age.