Mopar1973Man

With the higher pop pressure I'm sure its retarding the timing more because takes longer to reach pop pressure now.

Shower head injectors don't atomize very well cold.

Yes, for the most part, the colder the detected temperature the longer it will hold the grid heaters. Very rarely do I cycle 2 times. I don't want to waste too much power heating the grid heaters. 195 Amps (both elements) for ~15 to 20 seconds is quite a lot power usage. Like I point out above. Ice is a bigger issue if there is lot of it. The only way to get around that is have the truck towed to a heated shop to thaw out and then have the fuel drained out and replaced with dry fuel. Antigel is another weird one too. For people in Biofuel states still have issues with biofuel separating and then solidifying in the bottom. To my knowledge, there isn't any product for that issues either.

Simple question do you see fuel pressure? If not then the system is gelled or frozen.

I know last winter I remember seeing temperatures down to -35*F in New Meadows, ID. Never had any issues with fuel or starting one bit. This year I've seen as low as -10*F already and expecting colder to come soon. Typically I don't use my block heater at all. Most of the places where I go don't have power for a block heater. This has never stopped my truck from starting even after parked in a field for over 8 hours at -30*F. The biggest thing is to have good strong batteries, good main cables and terminals and always parked the truck with charged batteries. Way too many go after buying huge 1,000 CCA batteries but have crappy terminals and main cable are rotten to the core. So its just as important to ensure the cable and terminals are in good shape. Just for information purpose, I'm only running 850 CCA Walmart batteries. Now like last winter I was helping a friend in New Meadows which is not exactly the brightest crayon in the box. He was all on top of making sure all the diesel vehicles had 911 Power Service and Cetane booster. The only problem is there is no product that I know of that will deal with large amount of water or in this case ICE. Yeap his 2001 Dodge Ram blew the FASS fuel pump fuse. Why? The pump was full of ice and locked the pump motor. His small tractor would not start? Why? The fuel filter was a block of ICE and so was the bottom inch of the tank. No fuel would flow. So as long as you don't have water or ice issues you should be good.

Not sure but there is a few here with pop testers hopefully they speak up and where they bought the pop tester and adapter collar.

Pop pressure tester can be bought just about anywhere. It the adapter collar for the 24V injectors that is a bit tough to get.

Gotta be quick around here. No worse than "Where does this bolt go?" and clank into the middle of nowhere it went... Now I just need @IBMobile to show up and pick on him next...

I think I've found a crude way of setting up timing. What you'll need is to find a flat piece of highway you might check with a GPS to ensure its flat as possible for at least a one or two miles. What you going to do mark off your stretch of highway for the test area now you want to be at cruise speed with cruise control locked at the exact same speed each time. Might be handy if you can do all your tuning without shutting down engine this way your set cruise control should be the same. Now if you travel the same direction and speed over your test patch of highway you now can change your timing. What I've found is if you go to far advance you will notice the engine load value will rise. The same will be true for going too far retarded. If you are in doubt I would run 0.5 degree more retarded that advanced. There is only one thing the ECM and Quadzilla Adrenaline cannot see and adjust for is CETANE. So keep in mind your cetane of your fuel like up here its winterized #2 which is around 50 cetane currently. This also means you can retard the timing a bit too for this as well. Everything else you can monitor fuel temperature, IAT and ECT temperature. But cetane is the only value that is not factored in. Another way to detect timing is to set your cruise timing load as close to flat ground engine load. This should be tight and close to flip-flopping back and forth. Now if you overdo the timing say over advance the timing you find that the Quadzilla will most likely stay in the performance timing map more. If you find better timing you'll notice that you gain margin of room on the cruise timing as the engine load goes down for the same speed. These change might be very small if so you might be right where you need. If you off timing by quite a bit you notice a fair amount of engine load decrease as you keep getting closer to the correct timing values. As we are all learning there is no exact correct value being there too many variables with injection pumps, injectors, etc that will play a role in what works for on truck and not another. I've got another way I could do this too is using that same flat patch of highway do a 0 to 60 MPH run. My OBDLink LX and Palmer Performance App will do track times for 0 to 60 MPH. Clock starts as soon as movement is detected and stops when 60 MPH is reached. Then you could compare times for the performance timing table as well.

You need the door panel tool that is like a fork that actually pries up on the fasteners not the door panel plastic.

Well depends. Like for backup light they last a long time like 5-7 years. As driving lights they are about 1-2 years tops.

I'm just a small part of it. There are several other people that keep this site going as well. Like our Board of Directors that keep the site heading the right direction. Some key member and other staff that help the people that come to the site.

Get a 4 prong relay 30 Amp. Then you might pick up these bulbs they are much brighter. 100w bulbs...

You mean?

Then some morning I'll have to show you my Coffee Cup Eggs. Quick morning meal... Even though I'm beating up two unborn lives and nuking them till done. Yeah, I know some Christmas Spirit. But if we didn't pick on you... You wouldn't know that you are loved... Merry Christmas Dave...

I see way too much of blaming the thermostat too quickly as for the cause of overheat. Like out here radiator plugging externally and internally is very common. Either from mud or dirt road travel. I see this even on 3rd Gen trucks. Matter of fact the last one I worked on attempting to correct a overheat was @Taz between the radiator face being plugged up and the electric fand clutch being bad. You could easily blamed the thermostat. Most do because they are cheap and easy to change compared to pulling a radiator to clean it or replacing a fan clutch.

I feel the love there...

Thank you for the kind comments. I'm glad our little family of Cummins Nuts could be of help to you!

Gotta teach those boys about the Might Cummins.

Basically take the module out have it rebuilt or the dump valve wiring is disconnected or open circuit. I would test this first before having the module replaced or rebuilt.

They are also few fries short of a Happy Meal too.

Yeah it's possible. I would just change it out. 8 to 10 years is a good run. Reminder we have Timbo APPS in stock too.

We have diode packs for the denso alternators.

ABS wise you'll need a tool to pull the error codes to see what is going on. RAWL are strange animals.

Fuel sender is pretty cheap and can be purchased at you local dealer. Make sure you keep after parts guy that you only want the level sensor.