Mopar1973Man

Well low oil will cause excessive ring wear and then create the blow by. Typically excessive blow by will push oil out the vent tube. Good example of excessive blow by.

I'm looking at the fact the warmth is the factor. It like your compression is lower why I asked about the blow by. It could be the injectors are getting pissy and the droplets are just to big to ignite in the extreme cold. With 229k miles if those injectors are stock they very well could be wore out.

How many miles on the truck? How much blowby do you see from the crankcase vent are you venting oil too?

I'll have to check that out. Thanks @Me78569 ...

That's one thing I never liked about some of the tuners like Edge Juice and Quadzilla the gauges are included but at least Quad works without the gauges. I've always had stand-alone gauges. If I don't want to pack my cell phone I don't have to the Quadzilla still functions without a screen present. Now Edge Juice will not function without a screen present and very visible to a thief you've got a tuner. This gives my truck the kind of "stealth look" there is no tuner visible in the cab and less likely to be broken into because it looks like a stock truck with gauges that's all.

I think currently the Quadzilla will idle for 5 minutes after the key off and then shut down if the EGt limit can't be reached. I currently do a similar tweak is to set my EGT limit for 300*F and then leave my exhaust brake on. The keys can be removed and the truck will run on for 5 minutes. After that 5 minutes runs out Quadzilla shuts down.

I really don't like them. When you had the time to custom tune like I've now got the grip off now. You don't want to go back to canned tune. Even my truck is not designed around racing at all. It completely designed around efficiency and longevity. So like my Economy tune is very very mild and ramps up slower and is smoke-free and the timing is set for optimal efficiency. Now like the old Edge Comp I had was OK. It did great for power and performance. But sucked for efficiency. Again comes back to the lack of control for fuel and timing. So you had to limit yourself back to stock or RV275 injectors to keep the MPG up and smoke down. That where my MPG switch came from was learning that the timing was over-advanced in the dead of winter killing the MPG number. Now my current tune compensates for that problem. So like I'm currently running the Quadzilla Adrenaline without a wire tap. I've been tuning for the entire year now without a wire tap just to make the best CANBus tune I could like the XZT but it will be much better when done.

I just installed a FASS 150 last year. Trust me the FASS 100 and FASS 150 are still that big. They haven't got any smaller. Also, you are right the Titanium is not pictured. Yes, the filters hang way down in the blowing cold and damage path. Back years ago people got smart and mounting FASS and AirDog both in better places. I've seen several good installs where people tucked FASS in the void of the rear box which gave it really good protection from the blowing cold and small piece of metal or plastic to extend the fender on the front side. Now people just don't care just bolt it on and consider it good till problems occur. Like my example of that truck in New Meadows, ID with the gelling problem every winter. I admit I hung it the only way I could because the truck has a flatbed and utility box on the driver side. Still in all the filters are in the damage path and hanging in the blowing cold and still gell up every winter where I've never gelled up even once yet. Then again I've seen rancher with FASS hung in the typical location and tear up filters because the hung below the level of the frame. Just be going over a water bar and sink into the mud and swipe off the filters hanging down. Little steel box won't do much with 8,000-pound truck smashing the filter into the ground. I've seen even Raptor's that taken a good beating from a tree llimb that was driven over and whipped up and trashed the pump. So its not exactly a non-issue. Location and mounting does play a huge role in if you are going to have issues with gelling or filter damage.

Very possible the fact you attempted to run the new APPS sensor without calibration would cause this issue.

That's the problem right there. I ran around forever trying to find 75w-90 without GL-5. 75w-90 GL-4 does not exist around here.

Let us know.

No not really. You need to do it again and then proceed to do the throttle movement to program the ECM the limits of the APPS sensor. Disconnecting the batteries does not reset anything else including error codes. The ECM can hold information for over 10 years and still retain the error codes without power/batteries for that long.

Basically stock was 75w-80 for viscosity and the GL-4 rating. The 50 SAE I run is more like 90 weight oil. Thicker but no issues. The big thing is GL-4 rating more than anything.

Ok then do me another thing. Do a APPS reset.

No fair... Chicken Man will be basting in his own juices.

Any of the Synthetic 50w SAE GL-4 is fine. I'm closing in on the 100k miles on the Delvac no issues to report as of yet. Now I know that AMSOil has a flavor of Synthetic Oil for the NV4500 I know @AH64ID would know. 75w-90 gear lube is also fine ONLY if its GL-4. If its GL-5 it will wipe out the carbon fiber syncros.

Added the subtitles to see my function I'm doing. As you notice on the last video I was nearly stopped before I placed my foot on the brake pedal. I almost never touch that darn pedal and never press on very hard either. Exhaust brake does at least 80% of my stopping. Unless there is a panic stop or emergency stop the service brakes are up for the task because I've been using the exhaust brake for the majority of my speed control.

Just unplugging the APPS will force the ECM to control the idle for the VP44. Why spend someone money if they don't need the part?

Good The ECM is most likely fine. The APPS sensor is most likely set up wrong or bad out of the box. Need to measure the voltage on the Light Blue/Black wire and see what the idle position voltage is. It should be around 0.4 to 0.5 volts typically. If it's too high then the APPS will trip the validation switch causing the high idle near 1,100 RPM's.

Sure do...

If so there should be a P1689 error code from the relay failing and the CEL should be on.

That's the problem with ECM failure there is a lot of different ways they fail. P0606 error code All sensors have either hi or lo volt error codes Wait To Start light not coming on or delay extremely long. Soon as it starts goes to WOT regardless of throttle position. Doesn't start at all. Limited pedal where the ECM will throttle to like 30 MPH but no higher. Like I said there is a lot of fails for the ECM but I like to play by a 2 smoking gun rule. In other words I'm looking for 2 different test to fail the ECM so like the ECM producing the P0606 and the WTS light is lagging. That would be a for sure fail of the ECM. Now @DooLittleDiesel might have a bad VP44 too that in not playing nice too but hard to make that call with little information.

That's easy. First off you might as well service your starwheel and clean the threads and grease the pocket part of the shaft. Also check to see if there is shoe material left. One day mine quit working and the shoe material was nearly gone and just started metal to metal. When you re-install the starwheels make sure when they are spun away from the axle they tighten this is the normal direction. Remember I'm talking as if the rotor is back in place. Now reassemble the rotor, caliper and adjust the shoes till they just touch and drag. Proper adjustment. Remember starwheels rolling away from the axle to tighten. Now check your cables for and binding or damage. Like my passenger side cable is the troublemaker. It tends to rust up or bind. If so just replace both rear cables it works some much better when the cables actually move properly. So now that you know the cable move correctly you can adjust the slack. The nut on the threaded part is for slack adjustment that's all its not to adjust the parking brakes. So you need to tight just enough that the slack is out of the cable and it not dangling down nor is it so tight that you pulling the brakes on. There is no magic bullet here but common sense will get you close to right. If you adjusted too tight you notice the pedal barely makes half travel. If it's too lose it will go to the floor and not hold the truck.

Just unplug the APPS sensor. If the idle doesn't return to normal it's NOT the APPS sensor.

Because the brake pad companies are losing money. (Not seriously...) But I will admit that brake pad/shoe wear is reduced so much I'm going to clear over 200k miles on these brake pads and still be going on. I've still got a ton of pad left when I reworked my rear parking brakes. The starwheels rusted up and I couldn't spin the starwheels no more. My first brake service was at 185k miles now at 334k miles and well over 50% of pads left yet. Still running OEM rotors.