Mopar1973Man

Donaldson, fleetguard, AirDog, what ever is cheaper it the time.

Can't speak for FASS at all. I'm pretty sure DAP sells Donaldson for FASS as well you might call and ask. AirDog all the filter and water seperators are listed. As for the water separators, it not what you think. Just a steel mesh filter and that it. The water is just allowed to settle in the bottom.

Not a huge jump but comparing 54/6012 (HX35W) to a 60/60/12 (HX35/40 Hybrid). Not quite a 62mm that most jump to but I wanted to keep my exhaust brake so it a good compromise between the two.

Even I step up to the +75HP playground and the HX35/40 is a better turbo for that than the stock HX35.

From what I remember on the 24V truck the oil temp follows fairly close to coolant temperatures. Can't vouch for CR engines.

329k miles and still going. When I get to this summer I'm going to rebuild the steering box using Ryan kit from BlueTop and control to use my OEM box. Only my second track bar in 329k miles, 1 set of ball joints, still running OEM tie rod ends. No steering box braces. Simple solution drop to 235's you never have front axle issues. Even with offroad operation.

Partially correct. Battery temp sensor also plays a roll in grid heater control. Take notice that both ECT could be 195*F and IAT above 100*F and still get grid heaters. This is because the last check is done against the battery temp sensor and if the temperature is below +60*F then the grid heaters will still fire. You are correct on the 3/6 CYL run mode that is strictly only ECT and IAT control.

Correct that is the AirDog cross reference I don't have a FASS list. Stock most just stick to the Fleetguard.

Far as I know the Fleetguard 10um is your best.

All right here...

65 HP tuner but limited on fuel and timing control. It will work but tuning for efficiency will be tough. Like myself I'm not in it for the HP and TQ but efficiency and MPG.

Only problem 3/8 has wider pressure swings than 1/2 which is much less. 3/8 typically will be 5 to 7 PSI compared to 2 to PSI swing with 1/2 inch.

OEM is 6mm ID fuel lines.

I know 3um will filter white blood cells.

Donaldson has one of the better ratings. Like you could do a NAPA filter or WIX and the absolute rating is worse. This is why the double stacking of filters started in the 2nd Gens and then continued into 3rd and 4th Gens for the same reason. The tolerances in the common rail injectors won't tolerate the fine debris so double stacking fuel filters continues. This is why I alway keep the stock filter and always order a Big Line kit from Vulcan to keep the filter. This why I continue to keep changing the stock filter over and over again. I've tried Donaldson and Fleetguard and even AirDog filter in a 3um. Always have debris on the 10um stock fleetguard filter. Stock 10um on the left and fleetgaurd 3um on the right. Again still seeing dirt on the stock filter.

Between weak input shaft. Slipping the torque converter clutch. Slipping the direct and overdrive clutch packs. Excessive transmission fluid temperature. Yeah, it can be much worse. 7 x 0.010 injectors and Quadzilla with 36" tires torque trapping so its design to fail. I would ditch the 36" tires and the lift get down to a smaller tire or something that can release torque by spinning. 3.55 final gear on 36" like I said are like 3.05 or so. Way too tall and lot of stress placed on the transmission. Way better setup would drop the 3.55 gears and install 4.56 or 4.88 and that would be a screaming animal. Still need to beef up the 47RE...

Stock filter doesn't place any restriction on the fuel system at all. 12 years of rock solid 15-17 PSI between idle to WOT. All these people now pull the stock filter out because it just easier to hook up to the VP44. You lose the fuel heater that you need in northern states, you lose the WIF warning light, you lose the second filtering ability which has proven to me time and time again that the stock filter continues to pick up all the stuff Donaldson keeps passing. People wonder why the VP44 doesn't last as long. Remember all your lubrication of all those tight tolerance parts and cooling is done strictly by the fuel. So if the fuel has fine debris in it and low lubricity you will shorten the life of the VP44. 10um Fleet guard on the left and the 3um Donaldson on the right. My point is if the 3um filter is so good why is a 10um filter still picking up more stuff? Make you think!

Thanks, Dave I moved it over... I didn't even notice.

The biggest killer for alternators is starting the truck on a cold morning and leaving just idle with the grid heater banging against the alternator. The alternator can't keep up and the idle speed is too slow to cool the diodes so they fail. Alternator failures are more common in the winter time than summer time hence from the cold start load on the batteries, 190 amp or 95 amp load of the grid heaters and idle speed that only gives partial charging ability. Even if you get a bigger alternator you still going to put a lot a stress on it if you continue the same habit.

Ummm... +50 HP Vulcan Performance and Edge Comp did this. Don't worry about the 5th gear nut or input shaft breaking just got big and take out the mainshaft of NV4500.

Junk also... If every time you wash the filter media it is known that it loses filtering ability. So my question is how many washes before you throw it away? I know you spent a lot of money so you more prone to hanging on excessively long and so your will to feed your engine dust and dirt. If the turbo get dirty at all the filter is DONE period throw it out. I've seen every washable filter past dirt from new. DAP gave me a filter to try I wouldn't even stick on the truck. Brand new in the box the filter was full of holes and light passing right through the filter. I boxed right back up and had them pay for the shipping back. AFe filter also... I want to make 500k miles. Washable filters are not the solution to getting there. Might look it up in the parts look up books. https://mopar1973man.com/cummins/articles.html/24-valve-2nd-generation_50/part-number-lookup-tool-2nd-gen-24v/

Funny I just ordered a BHAF from DAP this morning. Yeah, you would need the factory tube to work well. I think the K&N tube will work IIRC.

Hmmm... I'm out of ideas I gave it my best shot...

1. Test the alternator soon as anything like lock up issues or crazy cruise control is noticed. Don't do any wiring mods but replace the alternator or rebuild with new diode pack. 2. I double stack filters I've got a Donaldson 3um filter on the AirDog 150 and then Fleetguard 10um in the stock can. I can say the 3um passes debris that the Fleetguard 10um picks up. 3. Fuel pressure gauge and never let the fuel pressure drop below 14 PSI. I've got my ISSPro gauge programmed for 13 PSI to trip the low pressure light. 4. All ULSD sold today is 520 HFRR Bosch requires 420 HFRR to meet standards. So I add 128:1 ratio shot of 2 cycle oil to the fuel. This typically will bring the score down to 380 or less. If you have access to biodiesel in the summer that is down to 220 HFRR score which is good but the high cetane of the biodiesel typically is a bit lower in MPG's just depends on the ratio.

Could be the o-rings on the connector tubes. If they are damaged they will weep fuel out. Injector line will spray with force if it leaking. Personally, I try and stay away from Dodge dealer parts and some Cummins parts. An example I called Cummins for 6 connector tubes for my truck and the price was quoted $600 for all six connector tubes. Drop them like a bad habit and called Vulcan and got them for much much less. Dodge dealer isn't much better on stuff I was attempting to replace my exhaust brake vacuum valve and was quoted $1,100 for the valve. I told them to forget I can replace the entire exhaust brake for cheaper. I ended up making a part for the valve is still in service. Just like Cummins thermostats nearly $100 bucks where I've been running NAPA t-stats for years no issues. As for the A/C parts, I sell a lot of NAPA A/C stuff being I've been doing A/C work locally for 7 years now. Rare to see a switch even fail.