Mopar1973Man

I tend to favor the OBDLink series dongles being there is constant firmware updates. I also prefer the bluetooth series over the WiFi but all iPhone (or Apple) users have to use WiFi option.

Valve lash incorrect. Leaking head gasket (Between cylinders or outwards). Leaking injector copper washer. Improper injector installation. Cracked head. Cracked piston(s). Piston rings washed out from leaking injectors. Injectors are on there last leg... I'm finding out that every 100k miles are good time to just consider replacing injectors. You can go past that but injector quality degrades and pop pressure starts to fall so the atomization starts to fail.

No problem here... Inverter will kick in by itself and I won't notice power outage. Just keep you away from the bolt pile and the intercooler tubing...

Like I'm learning about LED lighting that most of the light bars can't be aimed again very blinding. Like I posted above the the PIAA RF series LED light that CAN be aimed and focused. I CAN use these even in my LOW BEAM. The advantages are clear: More controlled beam patterns directing the light exactly where you need it. Lower power consumption than traditional forward facing LED lightbars. Bright 6000k White light that replicates daylight to illuminate the road and the trail. SAE Compliance for Street Legality. Compact and durable, with the cast aluminum housings and polycarbonate lenses.

Well you could go the extra step and just rebuild the box and reseal everything. During your re-assembly process you'll be readjusting the sector adjustment again. Which you'll do it the same way I just stated. Just got to make sure to add the slack back in.

VP44 needs 14-20 PSI at all times... There is 4 ways to kill a VP44... Filtration - Poor fuel filters suggest double stacking and running 2-3 microns Lubricity - Bosch states the fuel lubricity is supposed to be <460 HFRR but all fuel sold today is ~520HFRR (Except biodiesel). Fuel Pressure - 14-20 is Optimal fuel pressure which keeps the overflow valve open keeping maximum return flow for cooling and lubrication needs. AC Noise - Excessive AC noise will damage the PSG on the VP44 and typically create one of the many P025x codes. Being my last pump just about made a quarter of a million miles... (243k miles) I'd say I've got a good understanding of what works and what don't.

Like @The_Hammer came on for a quick update and told us about his loss. Like I said there is more information with just the members here that any corporate media channel. Like even myself I've gone the extra steps to monitor local weather myself being there is no local weather tower close to me and closest radar is in Boise and puts me on the rim of the radar. Yeah I even update weather tower so I can forecast weather locally better. Like NOAA uses McCall Idaho airport for my local weather which is impossible being McCall Idaho is nearly a 5,200 feet in elevation. Then it's over 25 miles south of me roughly as the crow flies. Then the next tower north which is not used but accessible is in Slate Creek Ranger Station and again it over 40 miles north and about 1,800 feet below me in elevation. So how do you get correct weather forcast? You set up your own weather tower.

But what if your pop pressure(s) are lower then it would take less cylinder pressure to leak. Just for an example, my old stock injectors are popping at 240 bar now but still run fine no smoke or anything but that is roughly 600 PSI lower. Lots of variables that will impact if its cylinder pressure is doing this or not. What happens if you just have a weepy injector that not sealing correctly anymore? Also, don't quote me on the exact boost numbers. Remember there is compression ratio difference between the HO (17.0:1 Ratio) and SO (16.3:1 Ratio). Like I said there is way too many factors to state an exact boost pressure that will affect your particular case.

Only difference, I kept my stock filter as a second stack filter and you'll be surprised how much junk is captured by a Fleetgaurd 10 micron that a Donaldson 3 micron missed.

I really do hate any vehicle coming at me with LED lighting. No focus of the beam it straight out blinding.

It might be time to consider a new place to live? to go through all that you've done to fix from the first flood to the second one just drowning your home all over again.

A mechanical fusible link is a device consisting of two strips of metal soldered together with a fusible alloy that is designed to melt at a specific temperature, thus allowing the two pieces to separate.

Hence why you loosen after hitting bottom. Kind of like doing band adjustments on 47RE transmission you torque to 72 inch/pounds and the loose a number of turns. Samee thing here bottom out the gear and loosen so to add slack back from bottom.

Just in the little bit that @Wild and Free posted is more newsworthy than any of the alphabet channels out there for news. How about the aftermath follow up of areas hit by fire, floods or hurricanes? Never happens. We never hear much about the folks and how there lives have been impacted or how people gather together to help out.

You'll be surprised I've seen some boxes where I turn 3 to 4 turn just to find bottom again. Then loosen 1.5 turns. That means if you doing 1/8 turns that would be 12 times of adjusting and test driving. If your doing 1/4 turns that still 6 times of adjusting and test driving. Or my way and do it once.

Nothing... I might stuff some dielectric grease in the socket.

Hmmm... Typically that is what the big boost guys are fighting with stalling. There was a member here ISX that did the calculations for cylinder pressures and found that around 60 PSI of boost you could exceed the pop pressure of the injector causing compression gases to push back. But that what I had to give for info...

From what I remember of your last post you had jacked the house up on stilts and suppose to be above the high water line. So was your house destroyed?

@jlongjohn if you wouldn't mind making an article of the bushing install?

Either it's going to be my compression is stronger or my injectors are giving better atomization. Hua? These two quotes would have me checking a few things. Between compression and fuel atomization I would be looking a bit being 40*F is nothing for a Cummins to fire up without grid heat. Last winter I was starting at -35*F without a block heater and just two cycles of the grid heater. No issues.

Basically all I do is loosen the lock nut. Then run the sector adjustment all the way in till seated. Make sure you not seated on the lock nut make sure it loose enough. Then back off about 1.5 turns then hold the adjustment while you tighten the lock nut. That's all there is to the adjustment. There is input bearing pre-load adjustment too but rarely have I've seen anyone needing to adjust that.

So far I'm very impressed and happy with my D2S Morimoto HID's still got the 5k bulbs going and no issues with bulbs so far. I would skip the LED idea. It's a very non-focused bulb with lots of scattering of the beam. Like I'm planning on retro fitting a set of PIAA LED driving lights in to replace my old school aircraft landing lights. The Morimoto D2S bulbs drown out the 100w seal beam halogen blubs. http://www.piaa.com/RF3LED

Contacts in the relay got poor and the resistance between the contact was high enough to create heat. This is one of the few reasons I unhook my grid heaters in April and hook them back up in October. There is zero reason to have the grid heater cycling on morning start. I know my truck REQUIRES grid heater at temperatures below +25*F. Above that, it's totally optional.

Typically all I do is loosen the lock nut run the sector adjustment all the way in till it seats. Double check your not seating against the lock nut. Once you hit bottom then loosen 1.5 turns then hold the adjustment with your Allen wrench then tighten the lock nut again. You are done. Much fast than turning a 1/8 turn, test drive, turn again 1/8 turn, test... Etc...

What the problem is that the cylinder pressures are high from the boost pressure so when you dump off the throttle rapidly the pressure is forced passed the injectors pintle and air/gases get into the injection lines. So as @jlbayes mentions blipping the throttle a few times this raises the line pressure up again to possibly blow the air back out of the injection lines before landing at idle RPM. This is normal for high boost engines.