Mopar1973Man

Multifunction is most common... Just remember everything below the bulb is all ground circuit. So the headlight ground is in the driver side kick panel. This is where the center of the dash ground goes after that point.

Any part store. Cut off the old plug and wire back to the same pins as it was on the stock plug. Like the batch I got from Autozone fairly cheap and just wire them on.

Typical Dave...

Not bad... 100 watts is a lot of juice 12V wise. I'm still running only 45w on my RV yet still working just fine.

My case it was only if the engine was running it would make noise. Now it does squeak a bit at first start up but once the belt warms up its dead quiet the rest of the day. Doesn't even squeak when shutting down.

Pictures? Seems like an rather unusual solution...

You not far away... Pacific Northwest? Heck @Me78569 is coming from Colorado. Might get @dripley from the East Coast there too. Time will tell...

Being it's an automatic you might look for the BD noise filter on the PCM and remove it. Then have the alternator tested. I've seen so many trucks with AC noise issues that lose injection pumps and ECM because someone installed a noise filter and modified grounds.

Most likely the plug itself is worn out. I would consider replacing the plug before it melts. I've seen this happen a few times where the plug get weak connection and the plug melts to the headlight bulb socket. Then its a royal pain in the rear to get out and also you possibly lose the headlight bulb too.

I've got to ask how many miles are on it too? Might be time to just freshen everything up in inside or maybe just a governor pressure solenoid and sensor.

I would remove all 6 lines and do it right. Still need to scrape off the old gasket material kind of tough with all the other stuff in the way.

This is fine but now attempt to get that mixture spray the same way the skunk did from the highway across my bumper, grill, radiator, coolers, front of the engine, etc. Might be a bit fun try to spray baking soda solution through a spray bottle.

Good bet right there... Being diesel fuel tank typically don't get dirty if you getting good clean fuel without water. After 15 years I know the inside of my fuel tank is still clean. No, I do not use fuel cleaners. No, I do not use biofuels. Petroleum diesel is not dirty if you buying from quality places.

2001.5 has neither... It's 4 way disc brakes and no load valve.

I noticed this same oil down at the local Chevron Station. I was talking to my buddy that runs the shop side and was doing an oil change on a Ford 7.3L Diesel and was shocked to see he carried the oil and was rather clueless of the changes.

In a way, I wish it was statewide (Idaho) for all the lame punk kids and their truck would have to clean their junk up and quit blowing large clouds of smoke. Down in Boise I run across Ford and Chevy constantly wanting to roll a big cloud on everyone. What's more, fun is whipping then from light to light and not making any smoke at all.

That was my suggestion being I can pull down so hard through the gear on the exhaust brake to get the rear tire hopping. Nothing like a manual transmission going down through the gear on an exhaust brake and never touching the service brake pedal. You also blocked the other option. 3rd Gen caliper and rotors are supposed to be a good upgrade. So looking for performance pads all I can say is you going to have to hunt till you find something.

Be careful with that... I've got a good contact with Ada County smog testing in Boise ID that I've been talking too. There is one customer that did something similar. He came in with the tuner at 50% and ran the test and passed the test. Then he cranked up the tuner and smoked out the tech. The reported him and denied his future registration of his truck for being a ...

Sorry your truck was not recovered...

Same here the SAC +75 HP (7x0.0085) flowed like +90 HP because of the pintle mods that have been done. Of course, DAP (Jacob) told me this as well.

Field lead is the green and blue wires on the back of the alternator. As for the Quadzilla your wrong... You need to unplug the CANBus, Unplug the wire tap, then unplug and reconnect the MAP sensor back to stock. If you just unplug the big connector you end up with error codes and limp mode.

Just remember larger wheels and tires will mean less braking performance and shorter brake life span. This will increase wear in the steering and suspension parts on the front axle. That being said I'm a bigger fan of re-gearing the axle than installing larger wheels and tires. Just consider I've got 301k miles now and only 1 set of ball joints, 1 track bar. Still got factory tie rod ends, steering box and power steering pump. I've only done 1 brake pad change back at 185k so I'm good till about 360k miles yet. Smaller and lighter wheels mean less wear on steering parts and better MPG's being I'm still holding 27.2 MPG as a high mark.

Might check the AC noise from the alternator. I just did a service call to a local Dodge owner with the same problem and it was a dying Bank's tuner that was killed off by excessive AC noise. This case closely fits what you're saying but I'm not 100% sure your gaps are the same. Try unhooking the Quadzilla and testing again. Then also unplug the field lead and test drive again.

Got up this morning and the shop smells kind of skunky.

I did this to my 3/4" ratchet and bent the handle of the ratchet. Be careful on the amount of force your apply when using a cheater bar.