Mopar1973Man

When you look back at my monthly fuel logs I started in January... This all kick off back in October. Last month...

After week of running, I did learn some more. I'm not going to reveal any of my tuning yet and I'm verifying my numbers. All I can say is when you hit optimal MPG timing the pyrometer will drop pretty good there should be nearly no injector rattle noise.

Well geez... Late to the party like usual... Welcome to the family!

Talk to @Cowboy he's created a filter design as well that seems to work. As for running two filters, I don't see a problem. Personally, I wouldn't worry about filters but add a few good strong magnets on the PTO covers. Being all the materials in the transmission are metal and would be captured by a good strong magnet. First, transmission cleared 260k or so when I broke the main shaft. When I opened the transmission up there was ZERO debris in the case and very light fine dust on the one magnet in the case. I was using nothing but the Mopar 75w-85 fluids and changing every 100k miles. Currently running 50 SAE Mobile Trans Fluid GL-4 Synthetic and still clear at nearly 40k miles and just over a year old.

@IBMobile That won't work. 85 pins can't have reference to ground. It has to return to the head light (B) position. This was a mistake I made in my first attempt and will cause light to be on always. Because the circuit is +12V hot already so a source to ground will trigger the relays. Stock system the headlight switch and dimmer control the ground. The rest is correct though...

I should hand draw my setup. I've got it working and doing very well so far. Still just 2 relays and 1 fuse setup. Currently only controlling the secondary bulbs of the sport headlights. I'm going to convert to controlling all 4 bulbs really soon. Still only be 2 relays and 1 fuse even then. Basically in words one relay controls the low beam. Then the other relay controls the high beam. So you'll need 1 male headlight plug, 4 female headlight plugs, 2 40 amp relays, and 1 fuse holder with a 30 Amp fuse. So wiring wise pretty simple. 85 and 86 of the relay will hook to the driver side head light plug. So for explaining purpose both relays 86 will be hooked to the "B" position of the headlight plug. The lo beam relay 85 pin will be to the "A" position of the headlight plug. So then the hi beam relay 85 pin will be on the "C" position of the headlight plug. Now your power you get from the PDC on the alternator fuse terminals (RED). This lead will hook to pin 30 on both relays. Now 87 (I'm using 5 pin relays). Will go to each filament of each bulb. Remember which relay you working with so "lo beam" relay would hit all lo beam filaments. Then your hi beam relay 87 would hit all the high beam filaments. So I jumped under the radiator to follow the OEM loom. Repeat the same on the other side. Then the ground I just used the fender ground for the headlights. I know its crude but it's a beta testing in progress... Fuse is out of sight but it hooked up in the PDC on the battery lead side of the alternator fuse. Both bulbs are lit...

A had a friend with a 2006 Dodge that just got done with this issue and it happen to be excessive AC noise from the alternator. I'm not exactly sure of the limits for the 3rd gen truck you could try my home test and see if it works for you. My buddy replaced the APPS sensor as well and didn't resolve the issue. It would randomly drop to idle and leave without power. After replacing the alternator which in his case completely failed and stopped charging altogether the dead pedal issue went away.

Nothing wrong with cheaper tools. HFT or NT are both good sources. Eventually I need to get a set of crows feet for my tool box.

Just need the center caps.

This should be the only one. I was fighting a copy and paste glitch that I figured out later on. Sorry for the multiple copies...

Problem solved... I went and got a Dayco belt from Autozone with a 3 year warranty. Installed and the problem is gone. http://www.autozone.com/cooling-heating-and-climate-control/belt/dayco-serpentine-belt/150612_0_23387_5281

@MUDDY had a project for me at his place. I happen to spot a set of wheels that would get rid of my crappy aluminum wheels that one is way out of center or bent some how. Sad to say, my tires are beyond saving the damage is done to them. I did the dismount and remount myself and spun balanced them to true ZERO on all four tires. At highway speeds you can feel the vibration from the wheels. No, It's not driveline I just replace all u-joints on both front and rear driveshafts. Nice match to my 1996 Dodge Ram 1500 no all I need is a set of center caps. At least the tires are now tucked back under the fenders again.

I've got a 3/4" plumbing wrench that is awesome for thing like that but rarely does it fit where you need it to because of it a 6 sided wrench.

Either case you still had to install from the axle side. Getting the seal out is just easier if you remove the carrier.

If in doubt have a second shop test them out. Do not send them back to the shop that you bought them from. I typically take my injectors to local shop for testing to see what's going on then I can point fingers at someone for warranty work. Then also having a second shop prove there is an injector problem. The white smoke isn't normal.

Kind of like myself like in the first year of ownership of my truck at 15k miles I had the exhaust brake installed. Now I'm trying to base my build around the limits of turbos that I can use with my exhaust brake. You can still have quite a bit of power but the turbo and exhaust brake will always limit what you can do.

Bad news... No one should ever reset APPS voltage. 99% of the time it's done wrong. APPS voltage should ALWAYS be 0.05 to 0.1 below tag voltage. That's a sign of bad alternator with AC noise problems. If you got to relearn the APPS there is a problem. 6 years I did mine just because I replaced the batteries since then I've not done it again. The majority of the issues are caused by AC noise. Now knowing it's a Timbo's APPS. There technically no voltage adjustment. Basically, adjust the stop pin till the voltage rises the back off till you hit bottom and loosen an extra 1/2 turn off the set screw. Timbo's does not have a voltage setting. It's an angle setting. All this does is ensure the contact or on the IDLE position of the contact. Another thing to be aware of that if the IVS is on the throttling position then it will follow the APPS voltage. If the IVS is in the idle contact then the ECM ignores the APPS voltage and uses internal software to control idle speed. This is where people screw up attempting to adjust idle speeds or adjust to an old voltage of an old sensor. This is all wrong. Timbo's basically just need to be sure the arm return back enough to make contact on the idle contact or Idle Validation Switch (IVS). Just had a passing thought. If you just unplug the APPS sensor and start the truck this will force the IDLE mode of the ECM. If its still idling rough then its NOT an APPS sensor issue but fuel system issue or ECM issue.

You also have to factor in the fact Raptor does not have a return line. So reaching 150 GPH is not going to happen. The most I've seen so far in fuel consumption rate is 25-30 GPH. Now the typical highway flow rates are 1-5 GPH roughly. Then you have to figure in the return flow rate but since the body of injection pump limits the flow of return.

You have to remove the carrier out of the differential to be able to replace the seals. Drive them out from the differential side then install from the axle side with a long driver tool. I had a shop do mine and watched the mechanic during the process.

Fluid is dark and nasty again. As for the rubber no biggy. Rather normal to see that happen.

Turbo has nothing to do with launching the truck from a stop. Just releasing the clutch from stop not touching the throttle will produce a pretty good lope as the truck starts to roll. 1st hear isn't bad at all just 2nd gear. Once you apply throttle it's gone. During that time the turbo is even being fuelled yet.

Let's say the main reflector is good quality and good spread of light. Now the secondary light reflector isn't that great. Very narrow beam path and more of a spot light pattern. Together both reflectors work well together creating a hot spot from the secondary and good spread of light from the main reflector. Like I said they are OK quality but nothing like HID like @Me78569 or @jlbayes are running.

Not the greatest but not the worst either. Let's say there OK nothing like @Me78569 HID lights.

Ground for the lights..

Might look over here being that @Me78569 added an article about it too.