Mopar1973Man

Funny... When I was swapping injectors today I figure I'd go the extra step and do the valve lash today too. I couldn't get that darn vent off by hand so... I grabbed an oil filter wrench and it turned it right off easy as pie.

You know you can call good friend on the other side of the US... I'm always here to listen...

Not happening... I wish I could... Right now with all the driving back and forth for MoparMom is keeping the budget extremely tight. I'm not capable to work any jobs really because of the time factor. Being my travel days are 12 hour days. So my off days I end up doing maintenance on the truck and keeping it in good repair. So like today was swapping out injectors and shopping for replacement injectors. FEB. fuel logs... So it doesn't give me much for buying tools...

I pulled my Vulcan injectors out and installed my stock injectors back in. I just about ate the grid heater gaskets so I made a run to McCall, ID to get the new gasket. Even after hard pulls (what you would expect with stock) it was idling fine and smooth in town. EGT's a bit higher than the +50 HP injectors. Timing rattle is nearly gone like I need to crank up more timing. Runs very smooth absolutely smoke free. Now last trip down to Bosie, ID when I fired up in the morning the exhuast was just lightly smoking white and smelled of fuel. Another clue something was wrong. I basically gave in swap back to stock and problems are gone. My problem is I don't really want to play the pop test game much and end back up pulling them all over again in a few months having to deal with another misfire or injector issue. Made a few phone calls to see what I've got for options for injectors. @dieselautopower is trying to set me up with injectors... Might be closer to +90 HP SAC's...

I just found out my injectors are indeed done. I changed out to my stock injectors and no longer having any issues.

Exactly what I'm going to do today I'm going to warm up the engine a bit and then get busy pulling my 50's out and putting my stockers back in. I'm sick and tired of the old 1950 tractor misfire.

I attempt to listen to the members and keep adding things that are needed...

Dang...........

Make sure you replace everything inlcuding the pickup tube in the fuel tank. When I first got my AirDog 11 years ago I was in a hurry to go up North to see a friend in the hospital so I installed it against my stock pickup assembly. Needless to say it ruined the AirDog 150 ability to pump fuel and keep stable fuel pressure. You much have 1/2" lines from the tank to the VP44. You may keep you stock fuel heater and filter without any impact to fuel pressure or flow.

Reminds me of the older folks here in Idaho. They can tell me all kinds of tales of what it was like back in the early 1900's. Today there is so few people that want to be bothered or to aid their fellow human race.

That's something I want to touch on the span of cruise timing operates at. @Me78569 we need to include down to 35 MPH and just a hair below 1500 RPM's. Right now the cruise timing only operates at speeds above 45 MPH and above 1500 RPM's so if I set my cruise on at 35 MPH on long city streets I'm stuck with performance timing. Because both RPM and Speed are both below the range. So like include down to 1,200 RPM's and 35 MPH and you'll cover the entire usable cruise band. So make it two bugs to fix. Like I found this on my day trips to Boise. The truck route through McCall ID is 35 MPH with no traffic lights or stops. I can set my cruise for 35 in 4th gear. 35 MPH is below the cruise timing limit, as well the RPM's I'll have to verify the number.

The signature setting are up in your profile setting. Yo can access them by going to upper right clicking on your name. Then Account settings. Then select signature. Or click this link... https://mopar1973man.com/settings/signature/ Mopar1973Man.Com site shows signatures on mobile devices.

You might be getting marginal. I would do two other test. 1. Disconnect the field lead go for a test drive if the problem is gone the alternator fail on the AC noise. 2. Remove the Alternator and have it bench tested at a part store make sure they do the AC ripple test. Now if both failed plus you voltage test then you basically got 3 smoking guns pointing to a failed alternator.

Apple thing... Just say I got no love for Apple devices. Android / Linux no problem. Most because anything and everything for iPhone has a price tag. Where anything Android / Linux is typically free.

Most likely because the android software works off the bluetooth side not wifi like iDevices do.

I'm at 289k miles now home stretch to 300k miles. Never experienced death wobble on my truck yet. Steering is still tight. Still running factory steering box and tie rods ends. Only changed 1 set of ball joints and one track bar. No steering brace on my truck at all. Use quite a bit offroad and no issues to date. Mostly it's about being pro-active about steering issues not lets the little things all adding up to create the death wobble.

If the code is present the ECM is dead.

Typically grab it with my hand and twist it off towards the left. I've only used a strap wrench once to remove a vent. Now you never want to put anything in the hose neck to twist it loose. It will break the vent cover as a poor gent did in my driveway last year.

That's hard to do... I would look in your local area and find out what is available. Like up here in Idaho I've got Module Masters that might be able to handle a ECM. So folks mention Go ECM as a rebuilder but all have pro's and con's. Basically I would look for a local module builder and then ask about turn around time and warranty coverage.

What size tires are you running? What size wheels too? Lot of the death wobble start with oversized tires that are way out of balance. Then I dig into the shocks and suspension.

There is the only choice of rebuilt. There is no aftermarket ECM that I know of and ECM are no longer manufactured at all. How are you to know that the ECM you just picked from a junkyard up isn't already fried from AC noise from a bad alternator? You can't buy ECM's from Cummins because of a license agreement set by Dodge. Neither can Cummins do any reflashing of ECM because of EPA regulation and also once again license agreement by Dodge.

Here you go... http://www.thunderbrake.com/

Here is what ATF will do... Now 80k miles of 2 cycle oil... Now tell me that ATF is a good thing to put in the fuel... ATF is high in ash content, high in anti-scorching compounds (which retards burning or ignition quality), friction modifier which is not exactly good for injection systems. Now 2 cycle oil is just oil. It contains no ash so deposits will occur. No friction modifers, no anti-scorching compounds. Again just oil that is design to completely. burn. ATF is not designed to burn at all.

Mine are standard hex head metric bolts for both the caliper and the caliper frame.