Mopar1973Man

I've been thinking about it too. The problem is the types of driving you do. City needs a tune to itself (0-45 MPH), then highway (55-65 MPH) gets a tune, then interstate (75-85 MPH) gets a tune. Because if you think about the different conditions and what you got to do timing, fuel maps, etc. All need a bit a pulling one way or another to make the driver happy. Like in the city you want your 1500 timing a bit lower to help spool up and get launched from light to light maybe even throw in fuel load timing on 2-3* just to aid in that. Highway you can crank up more timing building on the 1,600 to 2,000 RPM range. Then when you get to the interstate and you twisting 2,100 to 2,400 RPM constantly with boost riding in the 10-15 PSI range makes for rather challenging tuning.

Idle. Vehicle stopped. Just make a 40 to 50 mile run down the interstate with 20-20.5* timing exit the interstate and come to stop. It will randomly miss. Normal idle speed (850 RPM), coolant (195*), IAT doesn't matter, TPS (ZERO), etc. All you need is the A/C to cycle and the miss will vanish. Drop cruise timing 1-2* and it will not show up.

I'm almost of the opinion that you need a special tune for interstate travel to do it right. Because in the lower speeds of the city the cruise timing hang up to easy being you push the cruise timing pressure so high. Like my typically 55-65 MPH highway stuff I could set the cruise pressure for 8-10 easy. Interstate I need 15-18 PSI to keep the cruise state.

Exactly. I'm not absolutely sure either, but it is weird how I got the random miss and then just turning down the timing made it stop. All I can say is try it and see. The only thing I can think of is the pintle binding up in the nozzle from the heat soak. Never does it cold. Only after long run of the interstate or highway with about 20-20.5* of timing.

The dungeon...

It's all good. I don't have TV at all. So my entertainment is the Internet and everyone on the web site. When I lose my internet man talk about having withdrawals.

Now you know why I posted the meme and then hung out here and watch for people to come posting...

You only suppose to do head studs, push rods, and valve springs right?

I know the feeling. It seems like by the time I get done doing my 3 laps to Boise and back and attempt to catch up on home tasks, web stuff, etc. Doesn't seem like there is much free time. Sunday and Monday are my weekends so I spent today cleaning up the truck and fixing miscellaneous little things. Tomorrow I doing a trade out with a shop in town where I get to use their 2 post lift to change the transmission filter on the 1996 Dodge. (Shh... Hopefully Dynamic isn't reading I might lose my warranty!) Then back to my grind of 3 laps to Boise again.

Where's the pictures? It ain't real without pictures!

Uh... Yeah... It big.

If it wasn't for being brought on to the Beta Team for testing I wouldn't of bothered getting one and just hung on to the old Edge Comp.

Your firing the fuel before TDC like my previous timing was 20.5* BTDC so my injectors are small and atomize very well so with the boost pressure adding heat, cetane levels are high for winter fuel. What I think is happening cylinder temperature are higher because it's burning before it gets over TDC. So if you retard timing the flame front will be pushing more on the piston downward than the piston pushing the flame into the injectors as it still traveling up to TDC. Now I'm more like 17.5 to 18.0* BTDC...

Remember is a moving, flexing, home on wheels. Eventually it will get brittle and start to crack from the constant flexing of the floor.

Back your cruise timing down. Injectors are getting hot on the nozzles from what I can figure out. I bet if you back it down it will go away. Drop one full degree off your cruise timing at least and see what it does if its less the drop one more degree and it should go away. Might also add 1 degree to fuel load timing. See if that helps too.

Rust! Yeah, this winter I've not been able to keep up on washing the truck as much as I wanted to. I knew I had a few paint chips in the tailgate from the old canopy. So I'm doing some fix-up work to keep the R word under control. Need to pick up a can of gloss black paint tomorrow when the hardware store is open. The black of the tailgate liner plastic will blend right in with the extended black paint line. You can see I had it paint once with flat black but that is porous.

I got creative. I figured out a spot for my LG G4 cell phone. This happens to be a multifunction device being it's my MP3 player, cellphone, and my Quadzilla display. I've been laying it on my console most of the time. I got tried of that, dog laying across it, sliding off on the floor, trying to answer the phone, etc. Being the phone is jacked into the stereo I can listen to my MP3's through the stereo and if a call comes I can answer the phone call and its completely hands free (still legal). So I found a piece of scrap aluminum sign and start cutting, bending, notching, etc... This is what I came up with... It sits right in my ashtray. Now a got a nice spot for my cell phone at finger reach and easy to see...

Excellent idea.

Sometimes I find that if you just reboot the windows machine again, leaving the Quad unhooked as soon as it boots back up start the flash update software first then plug in the Quadzilla USB cable. Tends to work better. If you plug in the Quadzilla before you fire up the software you get this stupid mode where the software can't see the hardware. Worse yet when I'm flipped back over to the Linux side and call out "lsusb" in terminal and clear can see the Quadzilla. Somedays I wish they had a Linux app... No drivers and no BS. (Dreamin')

Doesn't exist. If you do the research on solar panels cloudy or shady parts of the day they still take a large hit in performance. I've got one of each and soon as shade hits it's basically done. Charge rate fails fast. Remember I've got 400w of panels powering an entire 2 story house with 820 Amp/hours of 6V batteries (wired as 24V) hooked to 4,000 watt modified sine wave inverter. I've had this setup for about 20 years now. This why you can't have your panels mounted to the roof. This would require you to park the RV in direct sunlight. This is what 400w worth of panels look like. This stands about 10 foot tall to the top of the panels. Basically eight 50w panels.

So in my case when I did it and turned out correct. OBDLink number in the V1 position and hand math in V2 position. So now if the results is a minus make sure to add the sign to your math. So if you had for example 63 on the volumetric setting and the calculator gave -8.4 for a result then you would add 63+(-8.4)=54.6 would be your new volumetric result.

Changes are in bold. ECONOMY TUNE TUNE PARAMETERS Number of Power levels: 7 RPM Limit: 3500 VALET MODE PARAMETERS Maximum Valet Mode Power: 20% PUMP TAP PARAMETERS Maximum Fuel Stretch: 1800 microseconds TPS Pump Maximum: 100% TPS Pump Minimum: 25% Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0% Pump Low Boost Scale PSI: 10 PSI Boost Scaling: 40 PSI TIMING PARAMETERS Fuel Load Timing: 2* Low PSI Timing Reduct: 3* Timing Reduct Scaling: 100% Cruise Timing Adv: 2.5* Cruise Timing Boost PSI Limit: 15 PSI RPM TIMING MAX 1500 RPM: 17 2000 RPM: 19 2500 RPM: 23 3000 RPM: 25 Max: 26 BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS 0 PSI:100 1 PSI:101 2 PSI:102 3 PSI:103 4 PSI:105 5 PSI:106 6 PSI:108 7 PSI:109 8 PSI:110 9 PSI:112 10 PSI:113 11 PSI:115 12 PSI:116 13 PSI:118 14 PSI:119 15 PSI:121 16 PSI:122 18 PSI:126 20 PSI:129 22 PSI:132 24 PSI:136 26 PSI:139 28 PSI:143 30 PSI:147 The only thing I can figure out why I've got to back down to your suggested 19-20* total cruise timing to 17-18* (2.5* cruise timing) is because of hole size of the injectors. Since I'm a much smaller nozzle and compared to you @Me78569 my atomization is finer and easily ignites. So over advancing was more or less getting the flame started the tip of injectors making them hot. Then when you come down to an idle state after a long run the pintles started hanging up a bit trying to pop at idle pressures. Now backing dow to the lower timing I've found that the MPG changed for the good (rise), idle miss is gone (injectors are cooler). This again shows more timing is NOT always better for economy. Now that I'm fairly happy with my timing table my next week I'll work on getting back to a good calibration on the OBDLink which I've also found a super simple way to calibrate. Basically, fill the truck make your run hopefully to return the same day to fill again. Now note the MPG of your hand math and the MPG shown by the OBDLink. Now head over to percentage difference calculator and plug in your two numbers. Now ADD this percent number to your current volumetric setting on the OBDlink. If you want a better average effect then like I did with my logs figure an average number for a month of fills and then use that number. This what I was going to use for calibration to hopefully pickup some of the wild idle offset.

Be careful. Like @JAG1 called me today because he's got an injector line that is bleeding fuel some. He was doing the same thing and was smart and stopped tightening the line more and called me. You have to be careful and check the line to socket for debris and be sure the line is fitting good and the taper is sealing good. All it takes is a small grain or sand, rust, corrosion, or metal sliver to keep it from sealing and just cranking down hard it going to crush that debris into mating faces.