Mopar1973Man

Yes. I opted against it and didn't want the headache of the friction modifier and the rebuilding the clutch stack.

The last Dodge I serviced the friction modifier I used you add the entire tube then fill the differential with the gear lube. Read directions on the friction modifier...

Only if the gear lube doesn't have it included. I've seen some gear lubes with friction modifier included.

I did, I threw them back in the bed of your truck remember? Time continues to creep by here like some didn't wind the watch up very well. Even MoparMom and myself are shocked at the amount of old building that are in bad condition. Structures left to stand as a testament of time. There is secret homes I going to stop and take pictures of. It is an abandoned home but well hidden from the public.

The best thing I can say is take a tubing cutter and cut on end off and take it with you to get the line. I would just buy a chunk of line and replace as much as I could. If you can get a reasonable price for the full replacement I go that way about it. A site I ran across... http://www.classictube.com/prebent-tubing As for the tank drop I typically use two ratchet straps and just unscrew the sender ring so the sender can rise up as the tank comes down. Best if the tank is nearly empty. You can pump the fuel out if you have as AirDog or FASS into 5 gallon cans or buckets.

Personally, I would keep the brake line in the frame rail so nothing can ever hook the brake line and break it open. Myself I would drop the tank to get the old line out so it creating a rub issue and also so the new line is fastened in place to prevent rubbing of the line on the frame or other objects.

I've got a funny thought the key lock assembly broke off on the back side not capable of turning far enough to hit start position. I've had this problem with my 1996 just a bit ago and the lock was the problem. The dog that turns the switch broke off partially and then it was never capable of hitting the start position. It only takes a bit of effort and security torx bits to remove the key lock to inspect it.

265k miles with 2-3 extra pumps of gear lube in front and rear axles for 14 years. To check my fluid I don't even have open completely just tip the plug a bit and gear lube runs out. No failures or leaks happening here all I can say its a myth. Open differentials running petroleum gear oil 85w-90 for 265k miles overfilled. Again the only way it can leak is if the vents plug up with mud then the pressure will build and push gear lube out. No quart bottles or gallon jugs most all my lubes are in 5 gallon buckets.

Like currently you can see the RV and the big block of wood I need to use to unhitch the RV. Also you'll see I've got to extend the jack a long ways. Then depending on where I go that block might be too big. Now I got to carry a assortment of different size blocks. What a PITA!

Actually, I buy 5 gallon buckets of Mobil Gear lube 85w-90 GL-5 for the axles. The last batch is from Grangeville, ID at Jacobs Oil. My next batch will most likely be from NAPA. Being I've got an account with them I get a mild discount. https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/p/NON75213/NON75213_0007744288 Walmart is a 250 miles round trip. Napa is a 70 mile round trip. Which is cheaper...?

Internet Myth. The only reason other reason it would leak is the vent is plugged up and can't vent the pressure off so it forces gear lube out the seals. I've been running both axles overfilled for 14 years and no issues. Carrier bearings hold the axles up in the pumpkin. The only thing I could suggest is to open it up and check the bearings for play.

You'll have to ask JAG1 if he'll give up his parking spot in the yard... Seriously if you make it up here I can show you lots of old time history. There is old mining sites like Florence, ID and historic places all over the place out here. You can spend days just traveling back into some of the old towns. Some are still active with small population but very very remote. Most remote town in Idaho is Yellow Pine, ID. There is all kind of neat things to see.

You have to use the synthetic 85w-140 GL-5 gear lube in the rear. The front you can use standard 80w-90 or the same synthetic. Preferred to get the gear lube with friction modifier already in it. I typically over fill my diff's by 2-3 extra pumps on the barrel pump. Then quickly stuff the plug back in. Personally, I would stick with the FSM value. 120 inch/pounds is 10 foot/pounds. At the most I would go up to 12 foot pounds but watching the gasket don't want to crush the pan excessively or the gasket creating a leak.

Double flaring tool. http://www.harborfreight.com/double-tube-flaring-tool-kit-66534.html

16 x 7.0 Aluminum wheels. Stock is 16 x 7.5 wheel.

I had Big O Tires in Ontario, OR install wheel bearings in the front axle. After installing the seals they started leaking. The owner Michael was very nice and warranty the seals. So Mike set up appointment for the shop in Ontario, OR to have the seals replaced. Since then they been replaced and never had another issue. So my question is the wear ring in the shaft?

This is a future mod I'd like to do when spare fund are available. I'm really getting tired of packing along all kinds of lumber and blocks for the trailer tongues. I've seen some industrial trailers with a handy drop foot then you don't need to find a round of firewood or large wood block to place under the jack to unhitch. Seem like I'm going through wood blocks fast because they are left on the ground to absorb moisture and rot. So I found a handy trailer tongue jack that will lift my RV to my BigTex without a wood block on the ground. https://www.etrailer.com/Trailer-Jack/etrailer/TJDA-5000S.html

Here is the 235/85 R16 Hankook's DynaPro ATm's. These are still rated at 3042 @ 80 PSI load Range E's.

The flash isn't the problem... Is the actual RAM tied to the CPU during booting stage of the ECM the checksum keeps failing. So it calls to reboot again and again till the RAM checksum matches. So the flash is fine just got damaged memory on the circuit board. If the flash was bad then it would never start period because the checksum would fail 100% of the time. The ECM would never come online because it would never boot. This why even normal PC's have issues with dirty power it causes damage to memory and CPU's. Same here in the ECM. Big square is the CPU, the two smaller chip on the bottom if I'm not mistaken is the RAM.

Here is a bit of history and news on the bridge... http://magicvalley.com/news/local/fight-over-little-known-salmon-river-bridge-highlights-ccc-s/article_e1ac09fe-85e0-594e-889f-85b9a4d6ba4f.html

That is not a circuit ground. The PCM is mounted on plastic fasteners in the bracket so to get the case a ground plane again that strap was added in hopes of noise shielding. That ground strap has nothing to do with circuit wise ground. Even my truck has the same strap as well. Here is the PCM circuit grounds. Take note to Connector 1 and pins 31 and 32 going to Ground G115.

Interesting place to stuff the brake controller.

If I'm not mistaken the filter minder is included on all Cummins engines and that filter should have the filter minder sucked down to the red zone of the minder.

Yes, I did the 235/85 R16 again. Right at $970 for the set. Later on I'll grab a picture.