Mopar1973Man

Most people will suggest against using a gooseneck to 5th wheel adapters being its going to more stress on the trailer pin. Ask the manufacture of the trailer if the adapter is usable with that trailer.

Can you validate your fuel pressure at highway speeds? I'm assuming your using a test gauge. I need to know if the fuel pump is keeping up with the demands the VP44 is asking for. If the fuel pressure drops below 10 PSI it starts to get difficult to create power reliably...

As for FASS they are well built pump. The problem is the pure size of the pump and protecting the pump and filters from the damage path of flying road debris flung up by the front tires. The mounting kit uses the bed mount on the driver side of the vehicle. Some say they can get it up high enough that the filters are not seen hanging. The problem still remains that the filters get struck from objects flung by the front tires be it gravel, rocks, chunk of lumber that fell off a truck. AirDog on the other hand had its own list of short coming and failures. The AirDog pumps are much smaller and very easy to hide. The current AirDog mounting kit includes plastic for mounting plates which is a shame because we know plastic won't hold up for long. I've installed both AirDog's and FASS systems both.

I'm running a clip on mirror on the passenger side for towing. I can see down both sides of my RV now the driver side stock mirror you can do find with a normal 8 foot wide box style RV or trailer. Passenger side with that goofy "closer than they appear" junk requires a clip on to get that bit of blind spot. @IBMobile is using one version I like but can't seem to get locally.

Just figured I'd pass it along that WalMart has a good price on Rotella T 15W-40 engine oil for $64.58 for 5 gallon bucket. ($12.91 a gallon). http://www.walmart.com/ip/Shell-Rotella-T-15W-40-Heavy-Duty-Diesel-Oil-5-gal./14958329 Then doing a bit of digging even NAPA is a good price for Chevron Delo 15W-40 at $63.99 a 5 gallon bucket. ($12.79 a gallon) https://www.napaonline.com/napa/en/search/?text=15w-40+5+gallon

Maybe that why vehicle theft is low in this part of Idaho most of all the ranchers have manual transmissions and to this day people still leave the keys in the ignition. It does happen where manual transmission vehicles are stolen. I've done a front end rebuild of a 2000 Dodge after the thief crash the truck on Christmas morning into a bridge railing on a icy road being chasing by the police. Worse yet the the caught the thief and he since then skipped bail and ran.

What matters is the return flow while its running. All the rest of the video was for to prove the lift pump can indeed push fuel past the overflow valve for priming purpose and the tiny hole can and will flow fuel for priming purpose. So for cooling purposes it only takes about 30 seconds after starting the truck to drop the pump case temperature back to fuel tank temperatures. So again the flow rate while running is the important one not bumping the starter meaningless really. This is why the upgrade form the stock value of 10 PSI to 14 PSI was now used. Because it insures that the overflow valve will be open no matter what providing the best flow through the pump and cooling the pump does rapidly from "heat soak" state.

Actually it doesn't trickle out at all it flow quite well. As for failure from heat not as common as you would like to think. Ask yourself or do a search for P0168 codes. Tell me how many times you've seen a P0168 code reported on any forum or web site? Most VP44 failure stem from AC noise issues not heat related as most people tend to believe. If so please explain how I've got 12 year old VP44 that survives 110-115*F summers and then put into the freezer at -20 to -25*F every winter? I've got 215k miles and clocking on my VP44 still pulling strong. You be losing functions possibly. Like with my truck being its fly by wire cruise I would lose cruise control for sure. P-pump conversion I don't suggest for daily drivers some people get away with other fight it constantly. More or less like ripping off a perfectly working electronic fuel injection on car to drop on a carburetor. Not that it won't work but it does create its own issues just like P7100 conversion on our truck.

Ok. First let me show you a picture. VP44 return is on the left, then the VP44 supply is on the right. So as you can see the return side is restricted fairly well. So even if the fuel pressure coming out of the VP44 is above 14 PSI its only flow the amount of the port will allow. Since AirDog 165 has a reduced return flow compared the old school AirDog 100/150's it tends to recirculate within the AirDog itself. I don't like this method much because it can have issues with cavitation just like the old OEM Carter and Holley pumps have to this day. If you dead head a pump it will create its own cavitation issues. So with AirDog 100/150's they are flowing majority of the fuel back on the return hose.

Strange but truck most truck owners out here favor the manual over the automatics.

Most likely not. It sure harsh on any kind of fluid system to bounce between fluid to air. It it weird way creates a hammering force and jarring. Kind of similar to water hammer but very random. So you can imagine the pressure relief valve opening and closing attempting to keep pressures stable and air compressing.

As long as the turbo lag doesn't create poor street manners and excessive smoke output. Then lag on...

That why the performance was bad. Any air is compressible so every time you requested power steering or brakes the air compressed more than work provided by the hydraulics. So start this process over again check the fluid make sure its full before starting. Run it short time and check for foamy fluid if so shut down and wait 15-30 minutes top off and start again till it stops foaming.

I've got a funny feeling there is something electronic that is defueling the system causing the lack of power. Then again not all codes will set the check engine light. As for the key trick the only year that it works on is the 2002 correctly. 1998.5 and 1999 don't work at all. Some of the 2000 and 2001 work correctly and other only report the PCM and skip the ECM. So just use a code reader and not have to guess.

Before assembly I would clean the shaft/kick down shaft with sandpaper and brake clean before re-installing the valve body. This will prevent damage to the seal on the case. Transmission fluid look a bit darker than usual and discolored...

Typically. I will get a system started and drive for short amount of time like 1/4 mile or less. Then return home and park it. Let it stand then top off with fluid after it stood for good length of time. This allow the foaming to quit. If the fluid is foamy don't drive it for long periods it can cause damage.

Dodge had a NP203 series of transfer case that was full time 4WD but it was a differential front to rear case so both shaft spun. Just some old history on transfer cases.

I've added just a bit of rearward angle so the tip of the down pipe is rest on the back side of the bell housing. This way the oil if any drip doesn't drip on the starter.

Last I heard on the pulling the bulbs is that its impossible being that they are LEDs. The panel illumination is bulbs.

Most coolant leaks are from over extending the coolant change intervals. So the coolant becomes corrosive and gaskets and seals tend to give in a bit and start to leak. So I tend not to think warp head or cracked. Not like you go out street racing every night or tractor pulls.

How about error codes? There is lots of error codes that do not turn on the check engine light but defuel because of issues.

Tightening pan I typically grab the ratchet at the head and spin it like a palm ratchet this way it really hard to produce any excessive torque that would cause such problems. Like my new Harbor Freight ratchets are the flexible handles I just fold the handle to the extension and use it like a palm ratchet again. Either way it still tough to produce damaging torque. Yes torque wrench is the ultimate way of doing things.

Safety Reminder... Most all trailer ST tires are rated only for 65 MPH speeds. Highly suggest you do not tow a trailer at exactly at 65 MPH. It would be no different that running the engine at red line going down the highway. I typically tow my RV at 55-60 MPH its a win win situation. The slower speed you net better MPG's and also tire temperatures stay cooler. If you owned the trailer... I would suggest you look at the load capacity of the tires and the GVWR. Like my RV came with Load Range D's and barely fits the GVWR trailer. So I up sized to Load Range E's. This gives a stronger carcase of the tire and pressure adjustment range. Calculated pressure for my RV I only need 57 PSI to cover the GVWR of the trailer. I run 65 PSI allowing for a bit stiffer side wall and a better towing performance. Then I'm not running MAX pressure (80 PSI) of the tire which now allows the tire to flex some when it strikes a pot hole or object in the highway. To this day I've never experienced a catastrophic tire failure or blow out on either a vehicle or trailer. Don't get me wrong I've had flat tires before even on the trailer I've picked up nails and such.

Be careful. As you increase turbos the lag will always come with it.

He has a point... I've don't have children so we are all adults and manage water wisely. Children is a new angle I can't answer for..