Mopar1973Man

Just bustin' your now...

Holding tanks... To start a trip I fill my water tank with clean potable water. I now take a 5 gallon bucket fill it and pour it down the toilet. This pre-starts the black tank. Now you don't have to waste large amounts of water on the black tank. I typically don't bother to turn on the pump for #1 for #2 I will fill the bowl partially to flush solid waste. So there is no worry about poo-pyramids then. As for holding tanks typically most RV are design to hold more waste than water so it very very rare to see your tanks fill. I typically run out of water before my tanks are full. So if I holder 50 gallons of water typically your going be still right close to the same 50 gallons of water in waste just in different waste tanks. So there is no issues towing with full waste or full water tank. Either way its still about 50 gallons of water either waste of fresh. If I return home like this trip and I barely used a 1/3 of a tank of water I will use a garden hose and finish filling the black tank up so it will dump completely. Then dump my gray water tanks as a rinse. At end of season I will fill all three holding tank completely full of water and dump one last time before winter as a final rinse. Since I use irrigation water I've got plenty of that for rinsing. Since my dump station is right here in my front yard no problem doing the job right.

Absolutely YES! I can watch over the air TV or turn on a DVD movie and never see full hook ups nor listen to a generator humming in the background. I love it takes me a mere few minutes to setup but I can watch TV, play with the laptop or just charge up my cellphone. The wonders of a 1,200 watts of inverter and batteries... Flip on the inverter, plug in the solar panels, toggle the transfer switch and 110 VAC is live in the trailer without the noise of a generator. So who's laughin' now... Even parked out here I watch Spider Man Movie on the side of US95... No hook ups. I didn't even put the solar panels out just turned on the inverter plugged in the TV and kick back and watched a DVD movie.

Most people have smart phones you can get an level app for most phones. Just lay it in the fridge and level it the best you can. Doesn't have to be perfect but close. Trailers you do the left to right first. Once you have the left to right level then you do your front to rear after your unhitched. I carry 2x6 boards and a shovel. I've been known to dig pits for the tires so the door and first step isn't a big step to get on the first step. Dumping holding tanks is simple just make sure the hose is all locked in place before pulling any knife valves. Always start with your black tank (toilet) then finish with your gray tank(s) from your sinks and shower. Like said before do not leave your tanks open if you have full hook ups. Always fill the up 3/4 or better before dumping. Myself full hook up camping is just relocation of your house. True camping you pack in and pack out.

Once you own an RV you tend to have double batch of everything. Like my RV I've got basically everything you need to go right now. I've got to just got to check the dog food supplies, pack clothes, fill the water tank, dump the holding tanks, and grab personal stuff. That it. There is bare basics for food on board. I always travel with a full water tank since 90% of my use is boondocking. I very rarely use RV parks any more. So I've got thing like Coleman liquid fuel stove for cooking outside, cooking baskets for cooking on a open fire. Bedding wise there is the standard minimums like MoparMom and myself we both have favorite blankets that we pack along. In a nutshell it really don't take us long to pack up to leave it just the matter of closing down the house that takes time. Typically the day before I've got the fridge fire up and cold and everything hitched up and ready. So if you own the RV you can basically leave it packed / set up. Like MoparMom and myself were discussing different can goods we would like to leave in the RV for the summer time so if we leave late in the evening like this last trip we can grab of a can of something and munch for dinner. Even the dog has a extra dog pillow to lay in the RV. So we are not constantly packing and unpacking a bunch of stuff. Like anywhere is home for us now...

I'm sure @Dynamic could spit that out fast...

All speed signals come from the ABS module. The speed sensor on the automatic transmission is for shifting control not speedometer/odometer function. Basically the rear speed sensor is your speedometer/odometer in the rear differential.

Any error codes? Use a code reader. What is your fuel pressure like? Any rubbed holes or cuts in the boots? What's your boost pressure like?

Yeah it is different. Pull the fuses on the 4 wheel ABS and the ABS light stays on and the BRAKE light goes out. Then the speedometer, cruise control and grid heater shut down doesn't work. The only way to disable 4 wheel ABS is to pull the smaller sensor lead so the module remains in permanent error. The light remain on but the module will not fuction for ABS but all speed function work fine.

Be also aware that trying to use a large torque for this job can process weird results. What I mean is, I've seen people attempting to do 6 foot pounds on a 3/8" drive torque wrench, when you should be using a 1/4" drive that is actually rated for inch/pounds.

Be aware if the ABS module is disabled then the speedometer doesn't work... Then other things like cruise control doesn't work and grid heater don't shut down at 20 MPH anymore. So truly there is no way to disable the ABS computer. I ran for a few weeks without my module and found out what all fails...

Compression test and vacuum test will tell a bunch about the engine. Who said I was worried???

Like for example. I've got a reman'ed ABS module and tested on another vehicle works fine. Traded another module on to my truck and lights pop. So changed the front sensors 4 different times now. I know that I've got good sensors. My tone rings are creating the issue some how. Every time the ignition key is cycled off and back on it self resets and re-checks for errors. If errors are found then the light are set again. So basically you have to resolve the error.

Wow... going backwards... Well as for classic carburetor vehicles I can tell you you might have some thinks to look at. Like most factory carburetors are long gone and been replaced with Edelbrock or some sore of high performance carburetor. Do a bit of study on what was the original CFM sized carburetor that it was designed for. Verify it the correct size for the engine or design currently. Way too many back in the day yank off a old stocker and throw on a overly large carburetor and wonder why the fuel mileage and performance fell. If I'm not mistake the old 60's were really easy to do points and set them. The old Chevy distributors had a nice little windows to open and you could adjust your point gap using a dwell meter. Later the all in one high energy GM electronic ignition came. I've had experience with older Dodge and GM's products.

Had me thinking for a bit then it popped in my head... I need to verify the ECM header as well as figure out the other headers in the system like the ABS, PCM, etc. That would help us out.

It's been approved...

Good question? EDIT: Just thinking about it a bit. MAP sensor is only on the ECM so why would a PCM header respond with data?

Good too hear. I know it simple process but would you make an article on where you got the seals, part numbers, and how you installed it all.

Worse case the o-ring broke or you forgot to install it.

Bad reference to ground can create all kinds of weird issues.

Chris could we get you move a new thread with the study and information on your CCD project. That way we can let the this thread continue without hijacking...

That a cute looking kid there.

Would be willing to share the CCD data info with us. I'm wanting to figure out more CCD data and gain access to it. Like reading the error codes of the ABS as well. Would you be willing to make an article of your findings?

As the vacuum pump creates the vacuum it vents the air into the gear case. So if you have a vacuum leak then the vacuum pump turns into a small air compressor and pumping air into the gear case increasing the blow by gases and possibly adding blowing oil to the list too. So when the vacuum system is leak free there is no air pumped into the gear case. Also the engine oil is fed into the vacuum pump it increase sealing of the sliding vanes that oil drains back into the gear case as well. It's slung off the gear as well lubing the gears in the case.

That doesn't even make any sense. Intercooler pipe is way off to the right the front pipe goes down in the gear case face to the cover where the VP44 nut is. The final vent should be all the way back behind the bell housing of the transmission. I would have to see a picture of your set up.