Mopar1973Man

Actually to prevent dripping or venting moisture doesn't freeze the end of the vent shut.

Mounted to the front wheel bearing. You have to remove the tire, caliper and rotor and right on top of the bearing is a sensor. One on each axle.

Front sensor problem.

No... That's your product... I don't do ATF... Yuk!

Going to the wrong house then... You need to keep heading east and drop in on @Me78569 and have him install them.

I've got the same plug as well. That is vacuum controller cruise control. Both our trucks are fly by wire cruise control.

I still cannot see a reason to go to 4" or 5" exhaust yet. I'm running 400 HP at the flywheel calculated and very controlled EGT's and extremely good MPG's. With a flow through muffler its pretty quiet in the cab now. The only way I would got to 4" is when mine finally rots off the truck but it will be muffled. I really do love the sleeper style everyone just assumes its a stockish Dodge till the beast is unleashed...

On the power steering you'll have to talk to Cowboy on that one. He'll get you through it.

It's waiting for your magic touch...

Now it's my time to shine... While you all are doing animal husbandry I'm growing fruit. Here is a nearly a full gallon bucket of raspberries... Yummy! Now on to the blackberries... Ohhhhh... Yeah!

Basically in a nutshell the MPG mode is used more so in winter time when intake temperatures are low. As intake air temperature colder the timing is overly advanced typically causing harsh knock or rattling noises. So fooling the IAT sensor to a more warmer temperature which retards timing a bit and makes it more economical for operating in the winter time. Average report is 1-2 MPG increase in the winter time. What I found for optimal operation in the winter time is being able to reach actual 100-140*F in the manifold but being this is impossible the fooler does give bonus to MPG numbers. Now using the MPG mode with a winter front keeping the cold air off the intercooler will bonus again from the warmer air.

Filter clogged up and not flowing good so the line pressures are weaker? (Educated guess...)

Coming back from the rain forest of Idaho... Just thick brush and grass, and ferns... All I'm doing is checking the water flow to our dam as well as the neighbors system and balancing the water between us. Can't even see my trail its so thick... Don't even see the foot trail any longer... Totally grown over. I've got a good load of water and 118 PSI down here at the house.

Tire numbers are right. Hence why stock tires on the 1 ton was 235/85 R16 and the 3/4 ton was 265/75 R16. On the steering brace I would thing it more about equal torque valves more than order of tightening. It's not like a head where clamping force is sealing a head gasket. It's more about getting equal torque on the fasteners so the brace doesn't move.

Well time will tell if the rebuilders are blowing smoke or not. I still think your looking at the MT-1 spec a bit worng too I'll do some investigation on that as well. I think its not ONLY for non-syncro'ed but for either syncro'ed or non-syncro'ed transmissions. Again I'm going to investigate a bit more on this. The only thing that is different is our syncros are carbon fiber thats it the rest is just gears and bearings. There are some syncro'ed transmissions out there using the 50 SAE fluid as well hence the GL-4 spec to keep the fluid from eating yellow metals. Also lets stay to the gear lube here, filtration is a different animal... That can spur a new thread on its own.

So can you explain the link I posted above and the comments in quotes? I don't think that a transmission rebulider / shop would be providing this information on their web site if it was going to cause issues or damage to transmissions. Then there is warranty their workmanship with a transmission fluid that would cause issues. I hardly doubt someone or company would provide information or product that cause damage. Makes me question these specs and limits people placed on these transmissions.

Kind of like Mobile 50SAE doesn't meet the specs exactly of either NV4500 or NV5600. Still no issues to report (for myself) and transmission temperatures are still low and fine. Shift quality is still good here. Makes me question Dodge's spec of using ATF+4 in the G56 transmission. I know that isn't exactly spec either very controversial topic about what is true specs what does meet or exceed the specs.

Drop to 235's and the speedo will be really close to right. There is only 1 rev/mile difference on 235's vs 265's.

That whole problem stems from oversized tires. The bigger and wider the tires on the front axle the more and more stress is placed on the steering gear box. Hence the reason I back down from 265's to 235's in tire size. Now look at my track record now. Only 1 trackbar, 1 set of upper and lower ball joints, still running OEM tie rod ends and steering gear box is not leaking and also OEM as well. I do not have any braces or addons for the front suspension. I travel lots of back country dirt roads and tow heavy on them too. So why is it that I'm at 264k miles and virtually no steering or suspension problems? Make you think...

I was cheering you on the whole way... When you told me you destroyed the seal I was... (D'Oh!)

Sounds like the batteries are wiped out. Small loads like that shouldn't make the lights dim. Remember you have to replace both batteries. Sounds like a starter issue there. Backing up a second it might be a cable issue still you might try doing the voltage drop test on the cables.

Make a dog leg over here into Idaho and I can show you a few good spots to camp too. I know its not for everyone but learn how to boondock with your RV. Makes traveling really enjoyable, finding different places to camp for the night and not having to pay high prices for RV parks and campgrounds. What I find troubling is the high price you have to pay at some RV parks for slot of dirt with only water and power hook ups. Some of them are nearly the same price as a hotel room which at least I get a maid and my room cleaned.

By chance is the starter pulling more amps than it suppose to? Bad starter brushes maybe? Bad starter solenoid contacts? Bad batteries? What is the battery voltage while cranking? Should be around 11 volts if below the battery might be to blame.

I was at 262k miles on the original NV4500 transmission and "Mopar Fluid" as well but the main shaft didn't hold up any longer. I'm now a test case for running 50 SAE Transmission fluid for the NV4500. I've heard of a few people using it in NV5600 as well. https://highgeartransmission.wordpress.com/tag/nv5600-6-speed-transmission/

All three things your looking for... I normally don't use the search on the site because of the limitations of the search engine. I typically do a custom search on Google using the "site:" parameter to hunt down the things I'm looking for. As for the site search it has to exact match so if your using wrong terms or abbreviation of a term it will return nothing. So like I searched for "crankcase vent mod" just exactly like the title above it will return with...