Mopar1973Man

But when you are towing trailers and heavy weight up and down grades torque value still is increased, exhaust temperatures are still increased, roughness of the road increases rolling resistance, etc. So there is other factors that could add to the heat.

There are some people that claim the only way to see if it will hold up is towing at 80 MPH on the interstate. I typically set the cruise for the RV at 55 or 60 MPH because of the speed limitation on the tires. This last trip I ran the utility trailer hard and fast at 65 MPH pushing the limits of the tires. Still in all with all the towing some 120 miles or more never had any problems yet. As for the firewood run I figured it would be the toughest being the slow speeds and lack of cooling wind under the truck.

Only took me 5 minutes to yank it out. But took over 3 hours to get to town get the alternator and return home with the new one... I want to mention something about test the number I typically suggest are after the batteries are fully charged and everything is warmed up with all accessories turned OFF. Why? Because like what I playing with accessories and test it can change the AC voltage number greatly depending on how big of load you have turn on at the time. So say for example low or weak batteries, headlights on and blower motor on will produce a higher number. So like when I detected the AC noise issue I pulled over pulled the field lead and drove home. So when I test at home it was invalid high number because I've already discharged the batteries driving home with the A/C on yet. So when I hooked it up and test I was getting extremely high number because the load of the alternator charging the batteries. Now when NAPA test it the number is even higher because the ripple test is done under full load which is worse case possible. So like I had them test the new one and it tested out at 1.1 AC volts for ripple test. So when I got home and hooked it all up I was getting at the start .6xx AC volts. So I tiddy up and hauled out and charged everything up and came back after 10 miles and tested again .025 to .029 at idle no accessories. Also the reason why the at rest value... Because there is way too many things for loads that people might use on their trucks. Like turning on the headlights I've got another 200w worth of bulbs burning compared to a stock truck so if we all use the same thing which will produce a more even number and less false positives.

First off there is no freeway here. Again like I said before the I90 is 5 hours away to the north and I84 is 2.5 hours to the south. I've got no real reason to get on a interstate. Typically I might use it for 60 miles from Ontario to Boise that all. Highway wise is all 2 lane roads and 45-65 MPH speeds period. Beyond that steep climbs into the forest haul firewood and my trailer is my normal hard working environment like the on road I use to get into the forest is actually posted for 20 MPH speed limit for 8 miles steepest part is about 12% grade but it not very long. If some is will to pay for fuel I jump on the interstate and drive any where you want... Until someone comes forward to pay for the fuel you have to take what I can give. As for mileage I'm closing in on 2k miles already.

Just a screw driver... LarryB's diodes are expensive I can keep rolling alternators over on warranty for less. I'm thinking of getting of ahold of National Alternators and getting a high output diode pack and go from there.

Unknown why but it failed the NAPA test stand. The new one pasted. So I can say that bad alternator diodes can do some really weird things like bucking and jerking with fly by wire cruise control.

On my way home from town I set the cruise and the truck started bucking and jerking on cruise control. Cancel cruise control throttles fine, Set cruise again bucking and jerking. So I pull over unplug the field lead and drive home. No issues at all. Pull out my Fluke DVM and measure at the BATT terminal of the alternator and was getting 0.244 not a typo... So of to the part store again to get another alternator under warranty.

Yeah 4 sets of them in the front. Front ABS sensors are not cheap that for sure... Like I said if I can blow all the grease out of the tone wheel it works for 1-2 days then grease return in the teeth ABS light is back on. Weird but true...

That's the problem the grease is full of metal from natural wear of the bearing. Fine dust type stuff and black in color. I could try cleaning them up again pump it tight with grease.

ABS tone wheel and the inner side of the bear is open/unsealed as far as I know so as the bearing heats it will push grease out. I've verify all my stuff on my truck traded ABS modules, front sensors, etc. When my stuff is place on another truck there is no lights or issues. Hook it all up on my truck using my tone wheels ABS / Brake light. The only temporary relief is compressed air to blow the grease out of the tone wheel teeth. Last 1-2 days and back. This is the factory grease in the bearing never been touched.

As for the grease in the ABS sensor hole... You going to find out later it will impact the sensors and not function. I've got old grease leaching out of the bearing that has natural graphite the metal in the grease is acting like a gap filler so the sensors is reading all kinds of weird speeds and constantly ripping ABS codes. So you've been warned. No you can't wash it out now. My front unit bearing are tight no issue there but the tone rings and full of grease If I blow the grease out using compressed air it works for about 1-2 days and the grease gets back in the tone wheel screwing it and trip the ABS light. As for the pan gasket... You just rebuilt that engine and changing a pan gasket this early? It's not even a year old yet.

4060 / 2 = 2030 / 3195 = 0.63 * 50 = 31.7 (32 PSI) 4580 / 2 = 2290 / 3195 = 0.71 * 50 = 35.8 (36 PSI) Math looks good. Just never seen tire pressure so low for such a high weight rating. Just going to see how it works out for you. I still say scale the truck out ans see what the actual weights are for safety. because just from the tire stand point of inflating to 50 PSI on all 4 tires should carry 12,780 pounds on the truck alone. What you see in the photo is exactly what my weight were sitting on the scale with my RV in tow. My empty weights a bit different.

Try the calculated and see how it does. At the most you can add 5 psi to your calculated number.

Well I guess you'll just have to try it out.

That rather disturbing with load range D's with that kind of weight and only 50 PSI limit. If I'm not mistake typically load range D's is 65 PSI and Load Range C's are 50 PSI. Double check your information on the tires again hard to believe 3195 at 50 PSI. If they are truly 50 PSI max I would highly consider getting different tires with at least load range E's for towing safety.

Won't matter for the pressure calculation but might matter for the weight that might be placed on the axle. Might be over the rating of the tire. You can verify the tire weight capacity on the side wall of the tire. 235's are 3042 @ 80 PSI as long as the weight capacity is greater than 3042 pounds (gives 6,084 axle capacity) you should be fine.

Really easy... Need to weight your truck with the trailer. The quickly do your calculations on your cellphone and readjust your tire pressures. Like my tire pressure are for towing...

Here is what these trucks are rated for right out of the manual. 3 weights are GCWR, short bed and long bed

I'll try that in the morning... I got to head to McCall for groceries.

I would suggest just replacing the overflow valve if the spring is weak or failing. There is a test for the overflow valve..

Sometimes there is a suction leak. Which in turn never leaks out. So with those kind of leaks you have to prime the system best you can and pressurize the fuel tank with compressed air (1-3 PSI). Now with a buddy crawling around under the truck you should be able to spot a dripping leak on a suction line maybe.

First load done... Extremely happy with the performance. Heading up the mountain this morning at about 9am it was about 65*F and the most I seen in transmission temp was 160*F dragging 1,800 pound empty trailer up 8 miles of steep road. Spend the better part of the day cutting and loading. Being slow about it being I'm a bit out of shape yet. So here is the load 2 cords roughly of red fir still a bit wet yet. So I went back down grade in 2nd gear riding the exhaust brake most of the way down. At the very bottom where I hit the highway I seen 160*F from descending 8 miles of steep grade. When I started off the top at 2pm it was about 85*F. When I hit the valley floor it was much warm like 97*F. As for steepness of the grade I could leave my exhaust on and it would hold my speed constant at 18 MPH most of the way down. So now my 25 mile run back home is a mild up hill run with cruise control lock when I could running 65 MPH. The most I seen was 170*F even with 800-1000*F EGT's. So I would have to say that even with summer heat and towing, slow dirt roads, climbing and descending it did very good.

Now the question is... How many of you personal have broke a grease-able joint? Be honest... ZERO for me... I wore plenty out but never broke a grease-able u-joint.

Be careful. The grease idea is great but over doing it will create ABS issues. Like my whole ABS problem is because the graphite in the grease is getting into the tone wheel and screwing up the speed sensors. So even though there is nothing wrong that I can tell of my bearings I'm going to have to replace the unit bearings because of grease getting into the tone wheel area. Weather changed from yesterday to today. I had a run yesterday down deep in the canyon where the weather made it to 95-97*F. Running along at 65 MPH the most I seen was 160-165*F not quite to 170*F this was strictly all highway. Still that is nothing to cry about. Then today cloud cover moved in and dropped the temperatures and even after climbing a steep grade of about 8-14% for 5-6 miles at 15-20 MPH I barely made 110*F. Of course climbing at those grade angles and driving slow will create some serious EGT's. Again made little impact on transmission temperature. So transmission temperature are more about outside temperature and pyrometer (EGTs) has very little to do with it.

1. I've never had to do a dash yet for either my 96 or my 02 yet... So I can't answer that. 2. Yes there is a special tool it about $8 fro Napa and its just a plastic collar you push into the spring lock and pull the tube off. 3. I typically charge $40 labor and what every the price of freon is for about 2.5 can (12 oz). As for recharging you need to be able to pull a vacuum on the system to remove moisture. I've rebuilt several Dodge Ram A/C systems not hard just time consuming.