Mopar1973Man

As long as the bungs are screwed in tight then there is no issues.

Won't happen. Remember the ABS is the starting line for the speedometer signal so if there is no ABS computer then there is no speedometer. I highly suggest you test the alternator for excessive noise issues.

My problem with steel cans in the rust issues. Fuel out here tend to get water it from time to time and steel cans will rust out. That's what happen to my last two 55 gallon drums was the gasoline barrel rotten from the inside out. The diesel one was more rusted on the outside. So I just replaced them both pretty cheap. I only use the plastic cans for transporting the fuel from the station to the barrel or from the barrel to the vehicle (trucks, ATV, lawn mower etc.)

Goes back on this problem. Since the ABS braking system works on the very same speed sensors as needed for the speedometer it very possible for the alternator noise to screw up the performance.

Wire tap or stealth plate?

I can get the valve stems at my local Chevron Station for cheap.

Let me say yesterday I got a good scare. Travelled up to McCall, ID to do my usual shopping. I normally take the back road around McCall to the store. When I started to approach the light I was easing into the brakes and all of a sudden the ABS is back pumping me not allowing to even stop. I was saying my prayers before I rear ended the car ahead of me. Then at the last 5 MPH of coasting the ABS tripped the light and brakes hit NOW. Missed the car ahead of me by inches. Now let me say I've replace all 3 speed sensors and been seeing the random light now and then. I've even tried with no shims in the front and now back to 1 and 1 in the front and the lights stay out for the most part. Now if you just lay on the brake hard like a panic stop now I get a wild jerk to the right. Quite spooky driving. Some times you can stab the brake and get the rear axle to lock one side or the other and not trip the ABS light. Really strange behavior... So I better go check my AC noise. Guess what the alternator is at .07 AC volts. The alternator is done. So my weird random issues was a alternator problem. Now lets hope It's not fried the ABS computer. I guess Friday I'll be getting another alternator.

After doing the conversion work on Randy's Tractor Farm and Family I started looking around to see what was there. I got to say there is a killer way to fix gas can to work. Check this out! http://forum.tractorfarmandfamily.com/topic/2888-how-to-fix-a-new-gas-can/

Not exactly. Like here in Idaho there is little to no biodiesel sold. No like Oregon is mandated for 5% Bio, Minnesota again is another state mandated for bio diesel usage. So depends on the state your in if you'll have bio-diesel or not. As for the loss... https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gasoline_gallon_equivalent Petroleum diesel will always have more BTU's vs Biodiesel. Just like Clear Gasoline will always have more BTU's than ethanol. As for cetane.. (Quoted from ASTM testing Labs) The ASTM Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils (D-975) states, "The cetane number requirements depend on engine design, size, nature of speed and load variations, and on starting and atmospheric conditions. Increase in cetane number over values actually required does not materially improve engine performance. Accordingly, the cetane number specified should be as low as possible to insure maximum fuel availability."

Hopefully its not a dry bird...

Between the shop, guest house and the main house we pay just around $100. Been running compact florescent bulbs and other low demand lighting. Like we just order a new LED floor lamp for the desk. Really nice. It can be done it just takes time to adapt your life to low power usage.

Nowt bad...

As for the sector shaft seal just order a gear box seal kit at your local NAPA store. I've rebuilt plenty of steering boxes and not really all that hard to do a seal kit. When it comes to the 20 some odd BB's around the worm gear I've got a way of handling that too.

Key factor here is was the lacquer a UV or not?

I'll be here like always. I'll see about tipping back few beers and enjoy a quiet day here in the country. I got what's important to me which is family and friends. Happy Thanksgiving y'all.

Check this out... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UEJbKLZ7RmM

Another factor on wood burning or pellet burning. Now like AH64ID is down in the city area of Boise area. (Not exactly but general area). So now for him to travel out and get firewood is much more demanding to travel up to the forest and spend a day cutting firewood and trucking it home. I can see the bonus for him just either have pellets delivered to his house or just chucking a few bags in the back of the truck. Now like myself my firewood is all around me. In my front yard in my back yard. I could drive less than 10 miles be hacking up a tree in no time. I figured out my cost of gather wood and I can having my heating wood for around $200 year if I do it myself. This year I was buying logs from a local yard being I just don't have the man power as I once. So this increase the cost more so but requires less man power to deal with. They always say that firewood warms you more than once. But hey now this is my exercise routine of bucking, splitting and stacking firewood. So I will admit that pellet stove is way less messy, easier to get wood for, user friendly, etc. But that all comes at a cost. Wood burning stoves are messier, more work, but come with a bonus of no electricity required, no moving parts to wear out, and works without a generator. This is kind of like the whole Dodge, Ford or Chevy battle. All I can say burn it if you got it. At least you'll stay warm and comfortable!

LOL. You'd never survive at my place then with 8 small 50w panels (400w) and 200w of hydro power in the summer.

My darn tablet will correct spelling or typing errors sometimes replaces words with the wrong one. (Pellet / Pullet)

There is absolutely no sense of jumping off a cliff for name brand suspension parts like DOR or similar. I'm at 255k miles on my truck and only replaced one track bar and set of ball joints. My truck is use more offroad than on highway.

Wouldn't that create a nasty hot spot doing things like that?

Now on the other side. I will admit @AH64ID and @Royal Squire make great points for pellet stoves for heating device. How about cooking? That where you bonus out on a wood burning stove. I know this should be more on the SHTF thread but like with my place when the power goes out I lose my cook stove, oven and drier (too large of load for the inverter). Now with the wood stove in the basement all these things can be temporarily resolved during a long term outage. The basement typically is much warmer so drying clothes after washing can be done. I've cook off a wood stoves in the past through long term power outages. So pellet stove are less messy, programmable, self feeding, fuel takes up less room etc. Only good for a heating device. So you have to consider you applications of your heating device and why.

About $1,500 for "Stove That Jack Built" Built solid. Heavy plate steel and constructed for life. You'll never wear this stove out. I think AH64ID is pullet burner.

Not happening. Both houses (stove above) and a shop stove. Heat two houses with 6-8 cords of wood. These stove are bulletproof. This main house stove will run you out if you turn it up and plug in the blower.

Absolutely! After seeing the boost leak thread with the other member and his chasing slow leakers. Now he's getting better boost pressure. I might consider do some inspection work myself on my truck again.