Mopar1973Man

Any of the vendors should carry them. I know Vulcan will suggest hitting a Cummins shop. But I'll warn of usual prices for injector o-rings and parts. Rocky Mountain Cummins was going to charge me close to $800 for 6 new crossover tubes. So I typically suggest vendors first over Cummins...

Still factory OE water pump...

Do one injector at a time. I would highly suggest replacing all o-rings and sealing copper shims. If the tips are not covered will build up then there is very little to be gained. Now if the tips are coated in carbon fluff or ash deposits then I would consider cleaning. sad part is you won't know till you pull them.

Exactly. Warmer air doesn't need as much timing advancement. Warmer block has less thermal losses more power is produced (fractional but there). 10*F more coolant temp is not going to hurt anything on light duty daily driver. I would be a bit worried about towing in the summer time being I know I've tipped 215-217*F may times holding 1,200*F EGT's climbing long grades. Being diesel engine rely on the compression heat to ignite the fuel if there is more heat then fuel readily ignites easy. Being in the winter time intake temps can drop seriously low and hamper the ignition quality of fuels hence why cetane level are increased for starting performance. After engine warms up the high cetane fuel is a waste. The coolant and block heat should take over from that point helping to ignite the fuel. Most people go the other direction and go colder thermostat 180*F. This creates poor efficiency not enough to ignite the fuel properly to much thermal loss into the coolant jacket. This is strictly daily drivers...

Being I use generic yellow coolants I tend to flush out about every 50k miles. I don't trust the quoted 100k miles on jugs. I've seen systems with 100k and they are all lime scaled up inside and radiator is the same way. Mine is still absolutely perfect inside the block and radiator yet. HOAT coolant I'm not will to jump into because its too hard to get locally. 90% of the stores and shops around me use generic yellow coolant and no issues and common to find.

Oil filters will go into bypass mode. So the oil flow will continue regardless. I know some folks that barely put 3,000 miles on a year. Personally me I wouldn't push a oil filter past more than 10,000 miles. Owners manual shows schedule A capable of 7,500 miles.

Fan doesn't lock till 215*F so I doubt there is any loss... Ask Pepsi71Ocean he's been running his for 2 years straight as far as I know...

Not really... It's been test by a few folks on the east coast and works rather good. The coolant temps hang at about 197-199*F through the winter and MPG's are up slightly more from the added heat. I'm going to jump into this ring and do more test and see how it reacts too. Just a stock 6.7L t-stat that all.

LOL! Already got a BHAF now. The coolant has about 70k miles on it now. I'm going to swap out for 200*F thermostat this winter too. Increase the block temperature and manifold temperature through the winter. Also my water get shut off this next month due to freezing temperatures. So if I'm going to flush or wash anything I better do it soon. Typically run winter fronts too as long as I'm not towing. Next month I install the winter fronts.

Could you post up a PDF document or a link to what you've found...

(Shh!) Don't tell all my secrets!

Custom failed exhaust...

Heck you can always come up here I'll do them. For beer... Sure why not! I'll even supply the camping area. Ask JAG1 about that...

Just spent 2 days working on a motorhome rebuilding a A/C system on a 1985 Chevy G30. Now I can switch back the priority of getting my winter wood split and stacked in the shed. Maybe by the time snow starts to fly I can fix my ABS problem and flush my cooling system which is way over due.

Next chance I get time to play in my shop... So darn busy most of the time its unreal...

Its going to be in the tail section of the truck it will have nothing to do with the transmission temp gauge. Everything in that loom should be tail light and things of that nature.

True. The MPG fooler does indeed retard timing. The ignition rattle nearly disappears in my truck with the fooler and comes right back without. What funny about about the whole cold air thing. I can get fully warmed up in a place like Boise, ID and drive into cooler weather and instantly see changes in the cold mountain then instantly see change back when I get to warm area like Riggins, ID. But never really see a change at all with the fooler on. Don't get me wrong I do see impact of the bitter cold starting in the dead winter but after engine temp reaches 195*F as long as the fooler is on the MPG are at least low 20's to high teens. Without it it will fall seriously to mid teens for MPGs. I gotta thank ISX for helping see the difference between 12V mechanical which has no loss in the winter to the 24V that does have losses in the winter. I never cold idle a engine to warm it up anymore. Even my gas power stuff I fire up and go. Keep the load light till the the engine warms up and the kick the pig.If I was attempt to warm up the truck idling (normal) it would take at least 30 minutes at 32*F. Now if I'm in a hurry and need heat to clear ice from the windows. 3 cylinder high idle and about 900*F of pyro and she is fully warmed up in about 7-10 minutes at 175*F. Then it automatically kicks out. But that 3 cylinder mode cost fuel... lots of fuel! Flow rate is like 6-9 GPH...

Now that sounds scary...

131 Mile trip today. Picking up parts and doing repair jobs as usual. I'm now down in ambient temperature to about 45*F and 60-70% humidity. My offset is now shift to about +50*F or about 95*F. When checking the IAT sensor. I'm using the MPG fooler at this point and seeing a shift of about 2-3 MPG just toggling the switch from IAT sensor to the fooler (143*F). I'm see a gain while on the fooler and loss when back to the IAT sensor. Snow line is sneaking down at about 6,500 feet.

Not bad... Distance to Ontario, OR WalMart 125 miles Distance to Town 15 miles north (Riggins) or 20 miles south (New Meadows) Nothing there... Just food and fuel... nothing more.. Distance a full service town 35 miles (McCall) Distance to Big City Ontario, OR 125 miles Distance to work varies but like today cover 131 miles... Thing is start and stopping and idle time is pretty low with me because of the distance you have to travel to get to anything. That like a person in a large city that travel miles of traffic lights stop & go and lots of idle time.

Idle time is next to nothing. Average speed is 45-65 MPH. Rarely do I run 75-80 MPH (Fire Calls). Starts a stops like today 4 starts and stops. Majority of my phone calls come from either New York, Texas or California most are in large cities. I've got one gent that is just outside of New York city. Several guys that call quite often from around Huston Texas Area... But yes there is a group of guys that are ranchers/farmers and such that are off the beaten path as well. Thing is I don't think that most folks that clear say 30-40k miles a year have much to worry about. Now the ones that barely clear 3-7k miles a year... Now you got some serious stop start counts. Short distance driving. Incomplete warm up cycles. Which reminds me of a chap in New York City which that all he do for total mileage a year is mere 3k miles.

Ok... I give you the fact the scenery is much better up here... As for driving and use. Compare the fact of most common folks live in a large city and barely drive 10 miles total to work every day. One of my favorite question I ask people on the phone is how far to your local MalMart? What funny a majority of people tell me its 2-10 miles away. So I would say those folk would have more failures because of short driving. Right? Like my total ending mileage for today was 131 miles.

Maybe everyone should pitch in an create an article about how to do this. Like my trip today to McCall which is 5,100 feet roughly and there is snow it looks to be around 6,500 feet and snow on the ground. I figure like typical I'll see snow here by November.

Oh just for fun info... I'm at 94.2 miles already today and still heading back out to do 2 other jobs. I'll pass the 100 mark easy today.

Personally I have issues with any washable filter media. The thing is most of the better brand name like AFe and others is the filter might do fine out of the box. Now wash the media a few times and tell me what the filtering rating is like. Most will wash it till just screen. I've seen some pretty ugly filters.