Mopar1973Man

Another factor on wood burning or pellet burning. Now like AH64ID is down in the city area of Boise area. (Not exactly but general area). So now for him to travel out and get firewood is much more demanding to travel up to the forest and spend a day cutting firewood and trucking it home. I can see the bonus for him just either have pellets delivered to his house or just chucking a few bags in the back of the truck. Now like myself my firewood is all around me. In my front yard in my back yard. I could drive less than 10 miles be hacking up a tree in no time. I figured out my cost of gather wood and I can having my heating wood for around $200 year if I do it myself. This year I was buying logs from a local yard being I just don't have the man power as I once. So this increase the cost more so but requires less man power to deal with. They always say that firewood warms you more than once. But hey now this is my exercise routine of bucking, splitting and stacking firewood. So I will admit that pellet stove is way less messy, easier to get wood for, user friendly, etc. But that all comes at a cost. Wood burning stoves are messier, more work, but come with a bonus of no electricity required, no moving parts to wear out, and works without a generator. This is kind of like the whole Dodge, Ford or Chevy battle. All I can say burn it if you got it. At least you'll stay warm and comfortable!

LOL. You'd never survive at my place then with 8 small 50w panels (400w) and 200w of hydro power in the summer.

My darn tablet will correct spelling or typing errors sometimes replaces words with the wrong one. (Pellet / Pullet)

There is absolutely no sense of jumping off a cliff for name brand suspension parts like DOR or similar. I'm at 255k miles on my truck and only replaced one track bar and set of ball joints. My truck is use more offroad than on highway.

Wouldn't that create a nasty hot spot doing things like that?

Now on the other side. I will admit @AH64ID and @Royal Squire make great points for pellet stoves for heating device. How about cooking? That where you bonus out on a wood burning stove. I know this should be more on the SHTF thread but like with my place when the power goes out I lose my cook stove, oven and drier (too large of load for the inverter). Now with the wood stove in the basement all these things can be temporarily resolved during a long term outage. The basement typically is much warmer so drying clothes after washing can be done. I've cook off a wood stoves in the past through long term power outages. So pellet stove are less messy, programmable, self feeding, fuel takes up less room etc. Only good for a heating device. So you have to consider you applications of your heating device and why.

About $1,500 for "Stove That Jack Built" Built solid. Heavy plate steel and constructed for life. You'll never wear this stove out. I think AH64ID is pullet burner.

Not happening. Both houses (stove above) and a shop stove. Heat two houses with 6-8 cords of wood. These stove are bulletproof. This main house stove will run you out if you turn it up and plug in the blower.

Absolutely! After seeing the boost leak thread with the other member and his chasing slow leakers. Now he's getting better boost pressure. I might consider do some inspection work myself on my truck again.

We aim to please...

Also it could impact the starter cranking speed enough to prevent starting too.

Funny how a winter front will change that little bit of warm up time and stability of temperature under the hood. I understand what both of you @AH64ID and @Wild and Free are getting at about wind chill. I think in a lot of way both of you right on certain points. Problem is there is so many different factors involving diesel engines and cold environments. Hard to exactly roll heavy equipment and the dodge Cummins in the same roof. I'm sure there is differences in their abilities of cold operation.

If your on the west coast I would of been more than happy to install that beast for you. I know you poor clutch would never make the journey here. I've done plenty of clutch jobs. For the better to let a shop just do it for you. Sit back and enjoy your free time. Then when you feel you broke the disc in enough... I know the Edge Comp is getting turned up.

True. Just like to place that warning out there for other to know as well. The other part of the warning. If the main breaker for some reason was forgotten and you did plug in and the power came back on it could do damage to the generator! Kind of like my Inverter I leave on Sell out mode. So all the extra power I produce is sent back to the city lines. This system has a double fall out system. One is exactly like you said the circuit load would trip the inverter into overload status. Then the other catch the inverter is bound to the city by matching frequency cycles. So as soon as the city frequency drop outside the pre-set limit in the panel the inverter drops the city line like a hot potato goes to inverter mode. I pretty sure I'm set at 55 Hz at a bottom limit.

Kind of like the spruce that's been laying in my yard for almost 2 years now and just about turning rotten / punky. Softwood tend so get punky faster depending on the location it stored also the bred of wood it is too. Creosote level is based on the pitch content also. Like this piece will roll coal by itself. Also noticed I split that piece smaller so it could be used for start wood. Highly flammable and extremely smoky. Again softwood dries very rapidly typically a full summer of 100+ temps it bone dry by fall. All my wood is stored in a cover shed and I usually get the wood gather and split in the shed by late spring. Here is the scraps of this years logs. Still needing to be bucked and split.

It's way seasoned! It was harvested back in April of the year and allowed all summer to cure/season out. Hardwood vs softwood is different too. Softwood has a pitch factor that can be bonus and hindrance. Bonus for getting the fire lit with just a match and no paper. Also can become extremely hot burning rapidly which most will choke down a stove to hold some sort of comfort. Pyrometer of the stove drops too low then the creosote will start to build. So out here its about burning the right wood for the temperature outside. As for drawing in a draft we like a little fresh air once in awhile and been known to open the front door leaving the storm door shut and just sliding the glass pane down one notch. As for moisture and humidity it holds a good 35-40% in the house with normal living, showers, etc. The only time we really tighten up everything temps fall below 0*F which is rare. Heck today its 44*F out and snow is basically gone. So what about a fire place? Hmmm?

All US diesel fuel is rated for ~520 HFRR. Bosch's requirements is...

Ok... Here is the down low. For 6 cylinder high idle its IAT temp of 32*F or lower WITH grid heaters firing. For 3 cylinder high idle its IAT temp of 15*F or lower WITH grid heaters firing. So in other words its got to be a lot colder that 32*F or 15*F out to trigger these modes normally. I would typically see 6 cylinder without a switch with a outside temperature of 25*F or colder and 3 cylinder at 5*F or so.

I'm going to say to check to see if your getting power to the grid heaters. It might have lit the WAIT TO START light but the relay might be having issues. (P0380 and/or P0382). Fusible links corroded off battery terminal or burned out. Contact in the relays good? All this can be checked by looking for power at the grid heater terminals.

Wow! A normal sticks & bricks home its OK to pull from inside? Building codes are all whacked...

It would be best to ditch the cold air intake for the wood stove. Pre-heated air for the wood stove will allow you to throttle back more without creosote issues and you won't have to sweat to death either. (Back fire fighting training) You need to pre-heat your fuel to make the wood burn. This why like house fires and forest fire burn so well in the summer time because all the fuel is pre-heated to 100 plus degrees. Now in the winter time even camp fire have trouble burning because of the cold air taking away pre-heat ability of the fire. More prone to stalling out a fire with cold air. Like ventilating a house fire your pushing the pre-heated air and gasses out so the fire can't spread. So I would pull that cold air intake off the stove and allow the warm inside air to feed the stove works much better!

Even though the P7100 is oil lubricated for the cam inside but the rest of the fuel system is fuel lubricated. There is still lots of metal on metal contact like pintle/needle and nozzle inside the injectors. Your lift pump is fuel lubricated. That's because as cetane goes down the BTU's go up. 2 cycle oil is a natural cetane reducer.

Remember it lubricates everything including injectors and lift pump reducing wear.

I would test with another testvgauge to verify. Most times it's just a sender. There is always the chance its an actual oil pump issue.

Kind of like myself I burn alpine fir and spruce for my mild fuel not as pitchy as red fir. So alpine fir and spruce I can throttle stove back more without ceosote issues. Then now with the cold nights the red fir burns hotter keeping the house toasty.