Mopar1973Man

I'll keep that in my mind next time this comes up...

Like on the 96 Dodge Ram that wire is also there too. Short distance down there is a fuse. Then runs all the way back to the driver side tail light. I assume the previous owner had a canopy on the truck and that was power for the light. Is it possible it the same thing? Dave... I say its time to pull the gauge out and check the connection on the back side. Then check the ground for that wiring where its at it might be loose ring terminal. Then just for the sake of being sure check the connection of the sensor on the transmission. Most gauges are rather simple. Positive, Negative, Sensor lead might be 1,2 or 3 wires depends on manufacture.

Just like Bill's rig how could it be dirtier with better MPG's? If your using less fuel then there has to be less emissions.

Mine are from an old aluminium road sign. Only a single bolt...

Intake horn of course is colder for all trucks. But the 24V has a coolant passage in intake manifold. Why don't ask... but it's there. Since the ECM uses the data from the IAT the intake horn is meaningless. So you have to watch the IAT sensor temps and what its report to understand what is going on. 1/2" Pipe plug in between the sensors is coolant passage.

Yeah different... Stock SO pump here. Very very quiet with the MPG fooler on just like a 3rd Gen. But flip the switch back you can hear the old 24V rattle again. The rattle get worse as temperature fall colder. By the time 0*F is reached it almost sound like a mechanic attempting to beat his way out with a sledge hammer till the IAT comes up.

No joke. I sit here and shake my head at the devices that put on these vehicles. Like my favorite is EGR valve. If you inject CO2 into a fire the fire dies out. So why would you inject it into your engine intake? I know the answer why EPA / CARB add EGR valves but still in all more CO2 added to the air the more fuel is required to make the same power. Being there is less air to burn it make for a inefficient burn in the cylinder no matter how you want to slice it. Then add a DPF in the exhaust to create back pressure trying to collect carbon dust. Then pump excessive amounts of fuel during the exhaust stroke to burn the filter out. More fuel wasted. Then AH64ID showing the stock timing table for 3rd Gen's and how nasty its laid out. Most of the table is After Top Dead Center. There is nothing efficient about the newer designs...

That could be rather thin for margin. So for stock turbo and your running 30 PSI and where 33 PSI drive pressure or a mere 3 PSI difference that is your 10%.

But if you reverse it and go mild on the injectors then you can take advantage of the tuner software (fuel and timing maps) and make better gains efficiency wise. Running larger injectors will get you the power granted but being on the lowest setting of the box you won't gain the timing and fuel maps. Man this is when I wish I could program like AH64ID with Smarty.

Other way around. Hurts us in the winter but helps in the summer. You'll find optimal IAT is about 100-140*F. Colder the air the worse the MPG's become. I've seen it many many times of being on summer fuel have a storm roll through bring cold temps for a few days (40-50*F) and watch MPG drop about 2-3 MPG. If your traveling long distance like I do I see changes in temps from low valleys like Boise, ID (2,700 ft) where its warm to getting to McCall, ID (5,000 ft) where it could be 20*F colder and see a change instantly in MPG. Fuel is the same and fluid didn't chill down either.

growing breasts . . . . Fresh from her shower, a woman stands in front of the mirror, complaining to her husband that her breasts are too small. Instead of characteristically telling her they are not, he uncharacteristically comes up with a suggestion: "If you want your breasts to grow, then every day take a piece of toilet paper and rub it between your breasts for a few seconds." Willing to try anything, she fetched a piece of toilet paper and stood in front of the mirror, rubbing it between her breasts. "How long will this take?" she asks. "They will grow larger over a period of years," he replies. I stop. "Do you really think rubbing a piece of toilet paper between my breasts every day will make them larger over the years?" Without missing a beat he says, "Worked for your butt, didn't it?" He's still alive, and with a great deal of therapy, may even walk again. Stupid, stupid man.

Thank Gawd Oregon Washington and Idaho are all open carry ans welcomed. Bad part is Oregon and Washington do NOT honor Idaho conceal weapons permit. So open carry is my only option at that point or leave it the vehicle.

+50HP are mild enough that you can play with the Edge Comp wide open. You can even tow on 5x3 without much issues.

Yeah I know. You should feel it from production end. Thanks to Nick (Me78569) he's getting the circuit board design knocked out for the high idle. The board is barely bigger than the switch for the high idle. But we are worried the switch is going to fit after circuit board is made. So ask Nick to have them make one board. It expensive as all heck for just one. But make 100 or more you get a discount, 1000 even better. So thinking back to the simple stamped dust shields think of the set up time and everything then to stamp out just one or two. Then think of stamping 1000's then being stuck trying to sell it.

Compare ratios on both 5 & 6 speeds you find the added gear is low in the ratio. As for me 5th nut is still going after 253k miles. Towing included...

How many people do you know are replacing these? Demand is low and cost are high about normal.

Yes it can be done without pulling the head. Just need to run each piston to TDC and then use a spring compressor and release all 4 valve springs. Valve rest on top of the piston during seal change.

Maybe the kickdown cable misadjusted.

I started sorting tools out man talk about a job. I've got a ton load as is. Like screwdrivers. I got a good set and broken set. I just found a bench grind in the trash about 2 weeks ago so I'm going to recondition a few broken one into picks and flat blade screwdrivers. Wrenches I've got my newer set then got my older set of mismatch. So it a matter of figuring out which draw is best to hold each type of tool. All during this cut draw liner and place in each drawer.

Congrats to the Otto family!

Difference between the east and the west... Now if I was in your state with that kind of population... Yes I would agree. Out here on the west side I can open carry without a single word being said. Still do. Matter of fact I've been gone the last 3 day in the Boise, ID and Ontario, OR area. Open carried the entire time never had one issue. Stood in line next to law enforcement and just get wide grins. Come winter time I'll end up covering up the pistol with my overcoat so it concealed at that point. Like this summer my 9mm is just large to hide while wearing shorts and tee shirt. Just open carry be done with it. I'm not going to buy a pee shooter (.22 pocket pistol) so it is concealed nor am I'm going to be uncomfortable trying to conceal a weapon. Average 911 police response time out here is roughly 1-2 hours!!! Even my local Sheriff is please that I do carry and none of the law enforcement in either county (Adams or Idaho) have issues with it. At 25 foot my 9mm isn't too bad for accuracy. Low recoil and great for rapid shooting.

Remember all main computers are grounded on the passenger side ground cable. There is no body grounds for the main computers. All body grounds are secondary systems like lights and horn etc. So to verify grounds you could do a voltage drop test for each circuit. Could be a corroded connector or weak connection. Yankneck typically suggested loading each plug with di-electric grease and cycling the plug at least 3 times to hopefully get a good connection once again. Still AC noise from a bad alternator could be causing part of this headache...

Not quite yet... October 26th... Then... Like I said for me by that time the roads get nasty around here and doesn't give much options for shopping. Not to mention it was on sale so why not.

Now just for information value... Wild & Free how far would you go on the drive pressure to boost pressure offset safely? Ratio?

Checked again on the way home. Towing the RV held a fair +40 to +45 offset to outside temp fairly constant. Even towing up grade as long as I wasn't racing to the top. If I geared down and kept the boost down a bit 20-25 PSI it held fairly constant at the 40-45*F offset. Now if I did go for broke and held the pyrometer at 1,200*F bouncing off the warning light then as coolant temp rose so did the IAT temps. About equal to to the amount of coolant temp rise. So if the coolant rose to 210-215 then the IAT rose equally. Now like I said if I geared down kept the speed down and pyro then no rise was seen. Now the amazing part... The max IAT driving I seen while pulling grades and flat ground. 140*F... Max IAT while coasting no exhaust brake 160-170*F. Max IAT while exhaust braking downgrades 190-200*F. OAT ranged about 75-90*F depending on where I was at and measuring throughout the day. As for my previous post I ran the interstate for a short burst at 80 MPH just to see the stats and numbers. For my setup it not efficient at all. Turning 2,400 RPM's, 850-900*F EGT's, 10-15 PSI boost... But running fast and empty has no impact on IAT temps. Still held the constant +40-45*F offset.