Mopar1973Man

That would be my guess too. Even the 2nd gen don't have a fuel pump fuse or a relay either and its directly controlled by the ECM. I'm going to say that the 3rd Gens are also the same way controlled by the ECM so the only thing you can do is unplug the connector at the fuel tank. Be aware it will throw a CEL for that.

For our 2nd Gen truck all our truck take standard power steering fluid. (Non-synthetic). Using synthetic power steering fluid is a bonus but becomes very costly to flush every 30k miles. It takes about 1 gallon to flush and refill a system properly. This doesn't mean using a turkey baster either. No you can't extend the interval for using synrhetics because there is no filter system so extending the interval just mean longer debris is allowed to ruin the pump, gear box and hydro-booster. ATF is not supposed to be used in our systems. 3rd Gen (2003 and up) yes your suppose to use ATF.

I tend to agree. I would get a cheap code reader and at least check for code. Normally all codes are held for 40 warm up cycles. If the code is not trigger again after the 40 warm up cycles then it auto erased. A warm up cycle is start from a coolant temp below 140*F and rising over 165*F. That is one warm up cycle. So if you do several start and stop events in one day you would have to let it cool completely down to below 140*F to get a second warm up cycle.

I just got a package from Me78569 today. All I can say is WOW! Here is a teaser for everyone...

Caching issues I'm still working on it.

Crankcase vent on the front of the gear case.

I'm thinking about just buying the cheap Harbor freight compression test which gives me the gauge and hose and some adapters. Then pick up a Cummins test injector and I've got a compression tester I can use.

Pepsi71Ocean found that a bad set of slip ring brushes can create high AC noise issues as well so it might of been that as a cause too.

Don't feel bad I've got the same issue. I'm getting tired of the ABS and BRAKE light always on. I look a dark dash it means everything is working properly.

No doubt about that... Radiator, coolers, etc. Then pull the gear case open, make rods for the tappets and lift then and then pull the cam. Not fun at all... I've never done it yet but I know sooner or later I will...

Last night I laid in bed talking to good ol' Dripley (David Ripley) and had my tablet with me. I continued to tinker with the site on the tablet verifying function and user friendliness so far so good. I'm working on improving everything but there is only so much I can get done in a day. Like today I've got two 12V Dodge's sitting in the yard one got a fresh set of +50HP injectors to replace the +150HP injectors that were overly lopey, smokey, and stall happy. Transmission kickdown cable wasn't even installed. Then come to find out the previous shop forgot to put 2 bolts back in the manifold plate. There is a laundry list on this one that need to be dealt with. The other 12V needed to have the tubing to the boost gauge re-ran after the mice ate it. So I'm busy turning wrench through the day. The owner is get ready to leave for Mexico with the truck so he wants my personal touch like last year so he's not having issues in Mexico. Then get interrupted by a broke down RV that blew the A/C compressor pulley and I just spent nearly a hour running back and forth getting information, pictures, numbers etc trying to identify this compressor. No you couldn't just look up in a book it was a custom A/C system by Bounder on a Ford Chassis. Very rare compressor and found one in Washington be here by morning! So back to turning wrench and running the highway.

I would never cut a frame structure like that. I bet money that truck has frame issues later in life.

No. These are strictly the old length yet. Give us some time for the next batch and we'll see if we can make it longer for overhead console use. Nice part is it just the cable need to manufactured longer. Being modular you can change that fairly easy.

The only reason the blowby test came out is most don't want to spend money on the special tool to do the compression test. So the blow by test was simple for the general public to do and did require the costly tool. Like I said the only way to test each cylinder is compression test though.

I've had to re-adjust my steering box a few times. Eventually I'll have to pull my box and do both the sector and bearing pre-load adjustment of the box. All listed in the FSM. Also if the is wear occurring and the fluid is dark colored its time to flush the system out.

Dry test compression is fine and will show low compression cylinders vs. blowby which is a summation of all cylinder blowby. Like JL Welding found out you can crack one piston and still pass a blowby test but fail a compression test because compression test will show lower on a damaged cylinder. It will show othere thing a blowby won't like blown head gasket between cylinders will show up as a low number on two cylinders. Also using the compression test hose and compressed air you can pressurize the cylinder and feel the air escape through the adjacent cylinder. So blowby test is a quickie test but no conclusive of what is going on.

Not that I know of. The warranty is only for the original purchaser.

Mobile uses the desktop view. There is no longer a need to switch back and forth. They are both one in the same now. It's called a responsive theme. It response automatically to what ever device your using at the time and conforms to the device limitations. So if you use a phone it will understand the viewport size and size automatically. Then switch to desktop then it resizes again automatically.

Random on/off light is a broken wire. I had that with my old sensors turn one way and trip the light turn back the other way and reset the light.

Oh... Go question. I don't have a good sensor to actual bench test but I know it's in the kilo-ohms bracket.

No. At 55 MPH it down to 1689 RPM's. Which is better for MPG but then when I need torque I can down shift and it puts me roughly at 2k of the tach. Excellent torque for steep grades. Where I'm at in Idaho the average speed limit is 45 MPH to 65 MPH. All local towns are 25 MPH. Then all residential is 15 MPH.

Pull the alternator have it bench tested. Make sure to test for AC noise also. To correct CSM a bit there is no relay for the stock fuel pump circuit it just a direct feed from the ECM. Now you aftermarket pump will have a control relay. So you want to check the stck connector from the ECM and see if the ECM is coming on. If not the wild alternator noise could be what killed the ECM.

Nothing more than a simple ohm meter and ohm it out right at the plugs. Either at the ABS module plug or at the ABS sensor plugs. Then you know if its a wiring issue or sensor issue.

55-60 MPH Edge Comp set on 5x3 with +50 Injectors This will net roughly 22-23 MPG fairly easy.

Batteries weak? What the voltage? TIPM having issues?